strano@stranoparts.com

Two SCCA National events. Two wins, and two top indexes (Champ Tour had 300+ folks, Match Tour 207). Won myself some tires. That's the good.

Here's the bad. Transmission took a dump. The good old first gear welding to mainshaft issue, or so it appears.

Car isn't slated to run again at a big event until Solo Nationals and Holley LSFest in September, but trying to get it fixed ASAP because I have no other time to do it.

strano@stranoparts.com

Oh, and I should mention... the results. On Koni's with my supporting mods. Beating cars with other shocks including Penske's, again. :0

froggy47

Congrats Sam. Which Koni's?

strano@stranoparts.com

3013. Not 2812's not 3011's.

froggy47

I had those a few years ago. Do the adjusters still stick at the final positions? Do the bushing still push out on the fronts?

Not being a wise guy, just honestly wondering if Koni fixed that stuff?



It was probably 6 years ago I had some. Give or take.

strano@stranoparts.com

I've had rod-end conversions for them for years now, makes the bushing moot, since it's gone. And makes for easier adjustment.

I have never had mine stick because I've never jammed them all the way to the end, which is what does it. And even those that have stuck which is only a few, got unstuck pretty simply.

BOTTLE FEDvette

wait your going to ls fest? Awesome job sir! sucks about the transmission

strano@stranoparts.com

Yeah, why not. I can hit it on the way back from Nationals and always want to do it. I'll likely get pounded in the drag racing but AX and TrackX I should be decent.

Nokones

Jaime Ohlrich also busted the tranny in her dad's C6 this past weekend at the AAS Larry Park Memorial. It is unfortunate that Jaime didn't get a chance to kick all the guys asses this year like she did last year. Although, she did have fun driving a fast C4 on Sunday.

I hear this has been a problem lately with the C5 & C6s. The Hobaughs busted their C5 ZO6 tranny at the last AAS event in June.

Hmm, my Tremec TKO 600 is still working fine in my C4 behind my Lingenfelter 427 SBC.

SouthernSon

I have the same shocks. I like them but I, too, have had the adjustments freeze. I only adjust 3-7 range. The extreme ends of adjustment (1-10) don't really give much performance.

I appreciate the insight to fixing the problem, Sam.

strano@stranoparts.com

Maybe 3-7 is your sweet spot, it is not like the shocks don't change damping above or below that.

I have no insight. I stay 1/2 sweep from full soft or stiff and mine have never stuck nor has any customer who did the same.

froggy47

Here's the thing. Unless you go to full sweep (one direction or the other) how do you know how to count the sweeps and what you are set to? So you HAVE TO go to full sweeps to start your count of sweeps. Or am I an idiot and missing something? Won't be the first time.

crznZ06

I had the same experiences with 3013s as Froggy and SouthernSon. My fronts actually came stuck from the factory. Koni fixed them under warranty, but even if you're very gentle with them they can stick, as they did shortly after I got them back. Koni wasn't so receptive the second time around, and, in a pinch, I ordered another pair.

Assuming you can find one end of the adjustment spectrum without the adjuster sticking, you can clock the lower mount/adjuster window relative to the adjuster in such a way that you know where you're starting. Now, I keep notes, and just don't go close to the limit of adjustment on either end of the spectrum.

3013s were a very big improvement over decently valved Bilsteins, and that was with the 3013s set at almost full soft. The adjusters do suck, but the alternatives are at a much higher price point.

Nothing is free...

SouthernSon

After a thorough debriefing from a current professional hot shoe on the circuit, I learned that the median of the curve 3-7 gives the best differential. The extreme ends of the spectrum are usually avoided. Maybe, maybe not, but taking his advice has worked well for me.

Sox-Fan

Yup. Same here. Two of my four konis could not be budged when they arrived. Koni replaced them under warranty, to the point of even including a return shipping label, which was very nice. Couple of weeks later the right rear puked all of its' oil out at Roebling Road. Koni warrantied it no questions asked, again including shipping.

While I think that I am fully justified in questioning the quality of the product there can be no doubt that Koni stands behind them fully.

strano@stranoparts.com

Huh. I run my rears about 1 up from soft on Hoosier's and around 3 up on BFG's.

talon95

I had a brand new one try to stick (never been adjusted by me), but I just pulled the pushing off the rod so I could get something on it better than a flimsy allen key and it popped loose easily. They do try to stick if you put them on absolute full, although I wonder if taking it apart again would let it be popped loose.

That said, I have had 2 puke oil that were brand new. Replaced by Koni of course. Seems like once you get good ones though, they last really well.

Sorry about the trans Sam. Annoying when that stuff breaks right at the height of the season. I had a throw out bearing go bad in my C5 years ago in August. Ended up paying a dealer to fix it since I didn't have time to mess with it.

l98tpi

Hope you get it back up soon Sam. I blew the clutch actuator down at Bristol. Hope to have it back by Toledo. Thanks for the input on the bars. You were spot on.👍🏁