Low oil pressure on long left hander
#21
Hi Andrie,
Thanks for the clarification. Since the pressure switch is up to the task, what would you recommend to mount to the dash so as a driver I can get a visual of what the oil pressure is and possibly an audio "low oil" alert that can be set by me?
Are aftermarket gauges such as Autometer able to react fast enough to meet this challenge using the stock oil pressure switch? I run an Edge CTS 2 monitor plugged into the OBD II port to keep tabs on coolant temps, etc but it does not have a PID for oil pressure.
Thanks for the clarification. Since the pressure switch is up to the task, what would you recommend to mount to the dash so as a driver I can get a visual of what the oil pressure is and possibly an audio "low oil" alert that can be set by me?
Are aftermarket gauges such as Autometer able to react fast enough to meet this challenge using the stock oil pressure switch? I run an Edge CTS 2 monitor plugged into the OBD II port to keep tabs on coolant temps, etc but it does not have a PID for oil pressure.
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TrackAire (12-02-2017)
#22
Drifting
AEM makes a good sender
#23
just as an FYI - 50+ yrs. track experience ( W2W and open track )
with many types of cars.
Ran a '13 Z with no mod's except 888's and alignment for 13 track days this past season.
Road America and Indy for example
Zero issues with the car including oil
with many types of cars.
Ran a '13 Z with no mod's except 888's and alignment for 13 track days this past season.
Road America and Indy for example
Zero issues with the car including oil
#24
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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Thanks Joel for your idea to check under the valve covers. I recently acquired an '06 ZO6 that had a few improvements done to it prior to my getting it. The heads valve stems were fixed, a Katech larger dry sump reservoir was added the oil pump was replaced with one of the Katech high pressure race pumps. Yet sometimes I too notice the oil pressures dropping into the low 30s at idle. Not sure if the valve stems were replaced but I'll take a look to make sure they are all still there. Remedial 101 question here... when I take off the valve covers, I'll plan on installing new gaskets. That is the best thing to do, isn't it? If gaskets are missing, is there a brand that you suggest for an LS7? Again if missing, I'll dive into the screen of the sump, but am also wondering about other small oil orifices through out the engine? Wonder if detergents found in today's oils help open these up? Now that I think of it, probably not or many of the elastomeric seals between various dissimilar metals found in the engine would be eaten up.
This is what a stock LS7 valve seal looks like - the valve spring sits on the bottom of the seal - so if all of that metal went through the engine it's rebuild time.
Since your heads were re-done, more than likely they swapped out the stock style for an aftermarket valve seal which is smaller and harder to see.
The valve seals are in the lower LH corner of this picture - sometimes I use a small dental mirror to see the seals - especially if they use dual valve springs.
Low 30's isn't bad with hot oil at idle especially if you're running 5w30, we were seeing under 30 with 15w50 Mobil 1 - that was not good.