Dedicated track car
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Dedicated track car
So I found a 2017 Grand Sport with only 2300 miles for way under KBB and couldn't resist to make this a dedicated track car. I am enlisting Bill, Poor Sha and the other track drivers on here with years of C7 experience to help me make this a SAFE and fast track car. So where do I start?
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am fairly hardcore with this one. My first plan is brake pads, race seats, harness bar and 6 point harness, DSC RT package and a partial interior removal. I am looking for the forum senior track members to help me out with suggestions.
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Captain Buddha (12-05-2017)
#4
Drifting
I think you are on the right path, you are going to have FUN! Something to consider (not sure if you already have a w2w car and/or a comp license) when you are doing your mods...you may (or may not) want to keep an eye on making it a TT or w2w car (in the future, you'll get the bug/itch/drive, I do not see how you could not, especially with that sweet machine!). So, what I'm saying is - do things that would help it along the way versus a mod that you would have to "undo" in the future. If it were mine, my main focus would be: safety, brakes, cooling, and more cooling and a "car diet." I'm not a C7 expert, I've done a few laps in them though.
Last edited by Captain Buddha; 12-05-2017 at 10:54 AM.
#5
Safety Car
Did you consider getting a purpose built race car? You can likely pick up a great car for less than what you have invested already. Once you try a lightweight high downforce race car with slicks nothing else compares (2.5g cornering, 2g braking, etc). With that said, building a car from scratch will also be a ton of fun, but it will likely cost you a lot more. If you go down that path you should definitely contact Joe at Phoenix. He builds championship winning Corvettes and no one does it better.
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
Last edited by Charley Hoyt; 12-05-2017 at 11:14 AM.
#6
Melting Slicks
That car is gorgeous!! Love the Red!! Congrats on your find. They work really well.
Unless you're going to cage it sounds like you know exactly how to proceed.
Might want to change out factory bushings to eliminate any bushing squish? Get a good alignment and pyrometer to see what's working for you.
If it were mine I would get:
Brake Pads - Whatever kind suits you, I run XP24's F and XP10's R
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
Seats - Comp Seat Conversion if you don't have them or straight to racing seats either Kirkey containment for example or FIA.
Harness Bar - Brey Krause
Harnesses - Teamtechs, Schroth
Tow Hooks
Wheels and tires - C6Z size CCW's work perfectly as do the 345/35/18 R and 315/30/18F Hoosiers (Main reason I bought a GS) I run C7 TPMS just to see the pressures in case of a failure
Delrin or Spherical bushings to reduce deflection and then let your tire temps and pressures dictate your alignment settings.
Suggestions from CB and Charley are sound. Joe and his team at Phoenix knows more about set up and have more championships than anyone else combined. They have set up a C7 for T1 so they know how to do it.
Engine temps seem to stay pretty cool.
With the correct pads and fluid I haven't had any issues with braking at all even totally bone stock except I was able to go through the factory front pads down to the backing plates in a weekend and that was splitting time between cars. Carbotechs are lasting much longer.
Anything else just ask. I probably forgot a bunch of stuff.
Have fun!! I love our Grand Sport which spends most of it's life on the track. It's just fast enough that you're not a back marker but not so fast that you smash everything and it gives you other cars to play with. I think you're going to have a great time with it!!
Unless you're going to cage it sounds like you know exactly how to proceed.
Might want to change out factory bushings to eliminate any bushing squish? Get a good alignment and pyrometer to see what's working for you.
If it were mine I would get:
Brake Pads - Whatever kind suits you, I run XP24's F and XP10's R
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
Seats - Comp Seat Conversion if you don't have them or straight to racing seats either Kirkey containment for example or FIA.
Harness Bar - Brey Krause
Harnesses - Teamtechs, Schroth
Tow Hooks
Wheels and tires - C6Z size CCW's work perfectly as do the 345/35/18 R and 315/30/18F Hoosiers (Main reason I bought a GS) I run C7 TPMS just to see the pressures in case of a failure
Delrin or Spherical bushings to reduce deflection and then let your tire temps and pressures dictate your alignment settings.
Suggestions from CB and Charley are sound. Joe and his team at Phoenix knows more about set up and have more championships than anyone else combined. They have set up a C7 for T1 so they know how to do it.
Engine temps seem to stay pretty cool.
With the correct pads and fluid I haven't had any issues with braking at all even totally bone stock except I was able to go through the factory front pads down to the backing plates in a weekend and that was splitting time between cars. Carbotechs are lasting much longer.
Anything else just ask. I probably forgot a bunch of stuff.
Have fun!! I love our Grand Sport which spends most of it's life on the track. It's just fast enough that you're not a back marker but not so fast that you smash everything and it gives you other cars to play with. I think you're going to have a great time with it!!
Last edited by Racingswh; 12-05-2017 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Forgot tow hooks :)
#7
Supporting Vendor
Brake Pads - Whatever kind suits you, I run XP24's F and XP10's R
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
With the correct pads and fluid I haven't had any issues with braking at all even totally bone stock except I was able to go through the factory front pads down to the backing plates in a weekend and that was splitting time between cars. Carbotechs are lasting much longer.
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
With the correct pads and fluid I haven't had any issues with braking at all even totally bone stock except I was able to go through the factory front pads down to the backing plates in a weekend and that was splitting time between cars. Carbotechs are lasting much longer.
#8
Le Mans Master
Did you consider getting a purpose built race car? You can likely pick up a great car for less than what you have invested already. Once you try a lightweight high downforce race car with slicks nothing else compares (2.5g cornering, 2g braking, etc). With that said, building a car from scratch will also be a ton of fun, but it will likely cost you a lot more. If you go down that path you should definitely contact Joe at Phoenix. He builds championship winning Corvettes and no one does it better.
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
#9
Melting Slicks
It almost always much cheaper to buy a race car rather than build one. I would not use a nice, new, expensive Corvette GS like you have for this purpose--only for a dual purpose street, occasional track car.
I would talk to Phoenix Racing, Katech, LG or others and get a track car they may have built or know is available, or buy an Ariel or other "new" track car rather than the path you want to follow. You also can find folks who have just tired of the sport and are selling their car, trailer, tools, etc., lock, stock and barrel, for a good price. Be patient and you'll find something solid. This is the time of year to look as well--the season is basically over and people are looking at how much they spent and deciding it is time to move to a cheaper hobby....
If you do decide to build one from this GS, you'll get lots of good advice here. I built one dual purpose C5Z06 and basically you need to address cooling (brakes, engine, diff, etc.), safety, wheels and tires, and brakes to start. You can keep going to getting it gutted, caged, upgrading all your suspension parts to racing grade items, etc., which I never did. However, many here have done this and can give you good advice.
Good luck!
I would talk to Phoenix Racing, Katech, LG or others and get a track car they may have built or know is available, or buy an Ariel or other "new" track car rather than the path you want to follow. You also can find folks who have just tired of the sport and are selling their car, trailer, tools, etc., lock, stock and barrel, for a good price. Be patient and you'll find something solid. This is the time of year to look as well--the season is basically over and people are looking at how much they spent and deciding it is time to move to a cheaper hobby....
If you do decide to build one from this GS, you'll get lots of good advice here. I built one dual purpose C5Z06 and basically you need to address cooling (brakes, engine, diff, etc.), safety, wheels and tires, and brakes to start. You can keep going to getting it gutted, caged, upgrading all your suspension parts to racing grade items, etc., which I never did. However, many here have done this and can give you good advice.
Good luck!
Last edited by quick04Z06; 12-06-2017 at 11:15 AM.
#10
Supporting Vendor
So I found a 2017 Grand Sport with only 2300 miles for way under KBB and couldn't resist to make this a dedicated track car. I am enlisting Bill, Poor Sha and the other track drivers on here with years of C7 experience to help me make this a SAFE and fast track car. So where do I start?
We are located in Cramerton, NC, just west of Charlotte. If you're in our neck of the woods or want to make the trip, definitely stop in for a visit/tour. I can show you some of the cool stuff we do here, and walk you through our brake hardware.
Incidentally, I just pulled the trigger on a C6 track car, so I'll be getting mine prepped up for 2018 as well. I'm sure we'll be seeing each other out at the track.
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 12-06-2017 at 12:13 PM.
#11
Drifting
For a dedicated track car, go spherical over delrin. If it doesn't have the camera, get a smarty cam that will automatically overlay data on the video. Data is a great tool.
#12
Instructor
Beautiful GS, congrats. How much was waaaaaay below KBB by chance? I was looking at new GS's at dealers recently......
#13
Is your goal to have a really fast car, or a really trouble free and inexpensive car?
If fast, get a purpose built race car, as was suggested above. If trouble free ad relatively inexpensive car, keep the warranty part on the GS, mod for safety and brake cooling, and a little suspension work. The car can be fast and is a fun platform to learn. I'd suggest getting 18" wheels and better tires, and the DSC is relatively cheap and won't void the warranty.
If fast, get a purpose built race car, as was suggested above. If trouble free ad relatively inexpensive car, keep the warranty part on the GS, mod for safety and brake cooling, and a little suspension work. The car can be fast and is a fun platform to learn. I'd suggest getting 18" wheels and better tires, and the DSC is relatively cheap and won't void the warranty.
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
Posts: 13,915
Received 1,103 Likes
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Did you consider getting a purpose built race car? You can likely pick up a great car for less than what you have invested already. Once you try a lightweight high downforce race car with slicks nothing else compares (2.5g cornering, 2g braking, etc). With that said, building a car from scratch will also be a ton of fun, but it will likely cost you a lot more. If you go down that path you should definitely contact Joe at Phoenix. He builds championship winning Corvettes and no one does it better.
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
Enjoy the journey,
Charley
Oh, BTW, you will still have ample opportunity to spend money even when purchasing an already built track car: rebuilding calipers, purchasing wheels, replacing wheel bearings, replacing rotors (or rings only) and pads, expensive tires each year or sooner, plenty of fluids to replace, rebuild springs, shocks, suspension components...etc.
Last edited by SouthernSon; 12-11-2017 at 11:49 AM.
#15
St Jude Drive every year
Dedicated Track Car
I agree with SouthernSon.... I started with a perfectly good C6 Z06 and have been slowly converting it to a dedicated track/race car over the past 5 years. As part of this process, I have thoroughly enjoyed researching the upgrades/changes and then either doing it myself or having them done. And then going out and having a blast with the car. If I were to do it again I would either start with a salvage flood car or with a car that is already caged and race ready..... It will still take some investment to get the car dialed in, but you start with a track ready chassis and powertrain.
Many upgrades are bolt on and can be reversed if you choose to sell the car at later time. However, if you put in a roll cage and start making major mods it is difficult to put the car back into street condition and the value of the car falls off very fast.
So figure out up front how far you want to go with your car. (Something I did not do) Because converting a good street car into a fully dedicated track car is the more expensive route.
Many upgrades are bolt on and can be reversed if you choose to sell the car at later time. However, if you put in a roll cage and start making major mods it is difficult to put the car back into street condition and the value of the car falls off very fast.
So figure out up front how far you want to go with your car. (Something I did not do) Because converting a good street car into a fully dedicated track car is the more expensive route.
#16
Safety Car
Like others have said... set your goals up front. To give you an idea of options, my Radical is for sale for $46K and it is an amazing track weapon for the money. You could also go the ASA car route. I’m not trying to convince you to go in any specific direction. Just letting you know that there are more cost effective ways to get a dedicated track car. But with that said building that beautiful GS would be a lot of fun.
Enjoy the journey.
Charley
Enjoy the journey.
Charley
Last edited by Charley Hoyt; 12-11-2017 at 02:22 PM.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the great advice!!! Here is what I think am going to do first.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thanks everyone for the great advice!!! Here is what I think am going to do first.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
Get with Mark at AMT for the seat mounts. He will make something for you that works perfect.
Pads should be fine although I am not sure. Ask Koan. He's about as quick as it get's in a GS with a 2:01 and change at VIR full completely stock as I recall except for pads and fluid?
If you end up running out of brakes get with Jeff or one of the other forum Vendors. I run the AP stuff from Jeff on our C6Z and it's amazing!!
Tires you don't even really need Sport Cups. Pilot Super Sports work just fine if you need a tire that works in most track conditions and drive safely back and forth if you aren't towing? People disagree with me but every time I am on them I am shocked at how quick and durable they are.
Again love the car! Looks fantastic!!
#19
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by ncstingray
Thanks everyone for the great advice!!! Here is what I think am going to do first.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
#20
Pro
Thanks everyone for the great advice!!! Here is what I think am going to do first.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.
Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear brake pads. I know these are not the most aggressive pads but a good balance of aggressiveness and rotor wear.
Brey Krause harness bar.
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Halo drivers seat and standard passenger race seat. Most DE clubs you must have the equivalent safety gear for both driver and passenger.
Continue to run the Pilot Sport Cup 2 on factory rim sizes. I am sure I could get another 5% out of Hoosiers but I will save these for the race car.
Still not sure what seat mounts and anti sub bar to use.