Dan H.

Replacing the front bearings and installing AP brakes today. The torx bolt holding the bearing in has some red locktite on it when I removed them. Factory service manual doesn't say to put locktite on in the replacement procedure. Do you guys put locktite on these when replacing the bearing. If yes, do you use blue or red?

Since it's a torx, I don't want to strip the head if/when I have to replace these again. If I locktite it, am I taking this chance?

Thanks gents
Dan

0Adrian @ F.A.S.T.

Put locktite there, a lot of the times service manuals say to replace the bolts, which will come with locktite on them already. Just reuse your bolts and put locktite on them, if you ever remove them: with the spindle removed, give the torx socket a few taps with a hammer to help let loose. We never had one strip doing it this way.

C5inWV

It sounds like you are far enough into it that you probably don't want to stop, BUT...
the torx bolts you are referring to are "torque to yield". They should not be reused according to most experts.

Dan H.

Yeah, they are already in. I reused the old bolts. Cleaned the threads on a bench grinder. And put a dab of blue locktite on. Torqued then to 96 ft-lbs and marked the with a sharpie to see if they loosen over time.

RocketRod

Nice wook and setup! Did you go with ARP studs?

Dan H.

Yes, those are the arp's. They are way longer than the stockers. I picked them up with the hubs from joe at Phoenix. Their shop is about an hour south of me so it's fun to drop in there and look around

alextz

Red locktite a must

SocalC5Z

What he said...blue does nothing at the normal temps in that area. I replaced the bolts with high strength reusable fasteners and put a dab of Loctite red on each one. I'm sure you'll be fine.

Bill Dearborn

The Service Manual doesn't indicate the bolts should be replaced and it doesn't mention using Locktite. I removed and replaced several hubs on my two C5s and C6Z. I reused the bolts and didn't put any Locktite on them. Torqued to the proper setting they never came loose. Biggest issue getting the bolts out is the lower bolt that requires dropping the ball joint stud down so you can gain access to it. The knuckle isn't as deep there so the bolt sticks out through the other side of the knuckle where it can get covered with dirt and moisture. If you don't clean those threads before trying to remove the bolt you can be in for a severe problem trying to turn the bolt after a couple of turns. That might lead to screwing up the Torx socket in the bolt head.

Bill

Dan H.

Thanks for the help gents, the bearings installed and marked. I'm pretty excited to try out these new brakes.

argonaut

Marking them was a good idea Dan. Easy to see if they loosen up. I've got almost every bolt under the car marked - suspension, shocks, hubs, sways, cradle, etc. Makes doing routine Nut & Bolt check so much easier.

FYI - you are going to love the AP brakes. They are a revelation. I could go on all day about how much I love em but to me the best thing is their longevity - they are as close to 'install and forget' as your'e going to find. As any advanced driver on stock C5 brakes knows - they work but require a ton of maintenance - constantly bleeding and flipping pads. With the APs, all that goes away - the maintenance is so low.

Dan H.

Thanks for the response!
Yes, I used to run through all my suspension bolts/nuts with a torque wrench twice a summer. Now that they are all marked, I'm checking more often but without having to do the torque wrench as often.

I'm really looking forward to running with these brakes. I'm not quite an advanced driver, but I did reach the stage of constantly dealing with melted boots, tapered pads, bleeding fluid, and cracking rotors. Really looking forward to less of that not to mention the increase in performance.

GSpeed

These wheel bearing bolts should be added to everyones check list when the car is in the air. Most dont have problems, but I cant tell you how many we come across that are loose.

JHrinsin

A related question - I have been told by a couple NASA racers that if/when I were to setup to the AP brakes it might also be wise to also step up to the stronger C6 ZR1 spindle/knuckles as well. Thoughts?

GSpeed

The C5 has a weaker upright (spindle) in the brake ear area and weaker bearings. It also has a PASSIVE ABS sensor.

If you took the C6 upright, combined with the standard SKF tracker bearing, you would have the SAME setup as the ZR1, with the proper passive sensor the C5 needs for the ABS to function.

Scooter70

It's on all C6s after 2009. The part was upgraded for the ZR1 but all cars got it not just the ZR1s. Yes, it's a worthwhile upgrade if you're replacing the upright. It does come with a new upper ball joint too. I paid just over $300 shipped last year for both sides.

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argonaut

+1 on replacing the spindles. When I stepped up to the AP brakes on my C5, I also installed the SKF Xtracker bearings and the ZR1 spindles.

Olitho

Yes, for two reasons.
1. They need to be replaced periodically due to stress. I change mine now after every 150 hours of run time. They will eventually break due to stress. I broke one at a race and went off track. Fortunately there was runoff.
2. With AP and any high bite/grip brake/tire combo you will get flex in the C5 spindle on the flange that holds the caliper mounts. This will result in diagonal pad taper.

fatbillybob

What is the part number for the ZR1 spindles?

Thanks!!

JHrinsin

Part numbers are note above in post #16