Has anyone just used SRF and not bled brakes before HPDE?
#21
I saw Motul 600 mentioned above - does anyone know how SRF compares to Motul 660?
#22
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
660 has an even lower wet boiling point than The 660. SRF is "only" about 600 dry but it is all abouve 500 wet where everyone else drops into the 400s wet.
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ow=1&SF=4&ST=2
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ow=1&SF=4&ST=2
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Someone needs to make a container we can pull a vacuum on for brake fluid so we can store it after we open the bottle. I wonder if those wine vacuum things would work.
#24
Originally Posted by village idiot
Someone needs to make a container we can pull a vacuum on for brake fluid so we can store it after we open the bottle. I wonder if those wine vacuum things would work.
#25
I've got nothing to lose, once your petal stays down, and the ranger method changes very little fluid. Don't see why SKF isn't as mixable as Motul. Besides, with a massive 150Ml syringe it will flush out most all of it. Remote bleeder in it's future, but not yet.
#26
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Then again, just thinking through it, it's not worth it for 1/2 a bottle of $16 RBF600 and I wouldn't want it sitting around for 4 months if it's SRF. My buddy fills his old bottles with nitrogen. He races bikes competitively so 1 bottle of SRF is good for like 5 complete flushes.
Last edited by village idiot; 02-08-2018 at 10:28 AM.
#27
Race Director
I wish they sold the SRF in 500ml bottles!
BTW - I use a Motive Power Bleeder, but any fluid left in the Motive jug after a flush or bleed is junk. So I never put the fluid in the Motive jug. I just use the Motive as a pressure source by hooking up the empty Motive to the m/c and pumping it up around 5-10psi, and that's plenty of pressure for a flush or bleed. I do need to be VERY careful to keep the m/c filled up so no air gets into the brake lines. I always check and top off the m/c with fluid after bleeding each corner.
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#28
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Yeah - most every other fluid comes in smaller containers (500ml, 12 or 16 ounces), but the SRF only comes in 1 Liter jugs. With a Liter of SRF costing around $70, half jug of SRF is worth $35 or so, so it's definitely worth trying to save it.
I wish they sold the SRF in 500ml bottles!
BTW - I use a Motive Power Bleeder, but any fluid left in the Motive jug after a flush or bleed is junk. So I never put the fluid in the Motive jug. I just use the Motive as a pressure source by hooking up the empty Motive to the m/c and pumping it up around 5-10psi, and that's plenty of pressure for a flush or bleed. I do need to be VERY careful to keep the m/c filled up so no air gets into the brake lines. I always check and top off the m/c with fluid after bleeding each corner.
.
I wish they sold the SRF in 500ml bottles!
BTW - I use a Motive Power Bleeder, but any fluid left in the Motive jug after a flush or bleed is junk. So I never put the fluid in the Motive jug. I just use the Motive as a pressure source by hooking up the empty Motive to the m/c and pumping it up around 5-10psi, and that's plenty of pressure for a flush or bleed. I do need to be VERY careful to keep the m/c filled up so no air gets into the brake lines. I always check and top off the m/c with fluid after bleeding each corner.
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#29
Race Director
Each bottle is filled with Nitrogen, increasing shelf life and eliminating contamination while factory sealed.
I'm sure Castrol does the same thing with their fluids.
I guess that after opening and using some fluid, if you could displace any humid air with dry nitrogen and then close the bottle firmly that you could store it for a little while longer.
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#30
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Info on the Motul site about RBF 600 says:
I'm sure Castrol does the same thing with their fluids.
I guess that after opening and using some fluid, if you could displace any humid air with dry nitrogen and then close the bottle firmly that you could store it for a little while longer.
.
I'm sure Castrol does the same thing with their fluids.
I guess that after opening and using some fluid, if you could displace any humid air with dry nitrogen and then close the bottle firmly that you could store it for a little while longer.
.
#31
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Info on the Motul site about RBF 600 says:
I'm sure Castrol does the same thing with their fluids.
I guess that after opening and using some fluid, if you could displace any humid air with dry nitrogen and then close the bottle firmly that you could store it for a little while longer.
.
I'm sure Castrol does the same thing with their fluids.
I guess that after opening and using some fluid, if you could displace any humid air with dry nitrogen and then close the bottle firmly that you could store it for a little while longer.
.
#32
My car is a dedicated race car, but even when it was just a track day car once I switched to srf from another brand basically stopped bleeding my brakes. Just being honest. I’ll swap fresh srf mid season but that’s about it.
#33
you sure it isn't your XP12 pads overheated ? XP12 is pretty standard on a 130whp, 2,400LB (including driver) Spec Miata. On 140whp Supermiata, many of us run XP18 on hard braking track.
#34
What calipers and what size rotors were you using when you cooked the Motul?
#35
Melting Slicks
Love SRF. Do an event a month. I bleed spring and fall and that's it.
#36
I've had many dedicated track cars over the years. When I was using ATE Superblue or Motul, I'd bleed each corner between events. I switched to SRF in my GT3 and changed the fluid only 1 time/season, and never had brake fade. I'd average 12 2 or 3 day events/yr.
Once, I had 1/2 bottle of SRF in the plastic bottle sitting around for 1 year with the cap tight. I tested the fluid with a hygrometer, and it was as good as new. The plastic isn't going to bleed humidity, and I conclude that the amount of moisture in the air above the fluid was not sufficient to change the moisture content in the fluid in the bottle. I simultaneously tested the fluid that had been in the car for a year, and saw that it did have some moisture in it, albeit only a small amount. I flushed the whole system.
I'm running SRF in my 2017 GS ZO7 with ST43 pads and Girodisc rotors. The vette has better brakes than a 6GT3 with PFC 04 pads.
Once, I had 1/2 bottle of SRF in the plastic bottle sitting around for 1 year with the cap tight. I tested the fluid with a hygrometer, and it was as good as new. The plastic isn't going to bleed humidity, and I conclude that the amount of moisture in the air above the fluid was not sufficient to change the moisture content in the fluid in the bottle. I simultaneously tested the fluid that had been in the car for a year, and saw that it did have some moisture in it, albeit only a small amount. I flushed the whole system.
I'm running SRF in my 2017 GS ZO7 with ST43 pads and Girodisc rotors. The vette has better brakes than a 6GT3 with PFC 04 pads.
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badhabit_wb (02-09-2018)
#37
Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
I use my Motive bleeder the same way. I wonder how squirting a little nitrogen, like wine saver, would do as far as moisture control in an open bottle of SRF?
#38
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I was talking about squirting it in the srf bottle and then putting the cap on it. I have a tank with nitrogen in it that I use to fill tires, etc so I could use that. The motive bottle is big but I don't put brake fluid in it I just keep refilling the master cylinder.
#39
Melting Slicks
The amount of water in less than 1L of air is negligible for whatever SRF is left in the bottle with the trapped air and closed lid. I think tying to displace that air with nitrogen is really splitting hairs.
#40
How about brake fluid storage in the same type of bag system that “boxed wine “ use. No air enters the bag, valve controls the discharge.