Tykrane30

Hey everyone I wanted a few more opinions on the matter.

I've got an '01 LS1 C5 that i'm slowly building into a track prepped car as i work up through the HPDE ranks in NASA. So far the car is pretty stock and i plan to run a 295 square setup on 200TW tires for this coming season.

Anyways, I've been looking at the Improved Engineering Trap-Door Baffling Inserts for the batwing oil pan along with the crank scraper because i know the LS motors have a tendency to oil starve. Does anyone have any personal experience with these products? Are they worth the money for the stage that my car is in? I'm just looking for cheap insurance on the car for the time being so i don't go and spin a bearing.

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...pan-p-743.html

http://www.improvedracing.com/crank-...ductsearchusen

Thanks!

crimlwC6

Unless you are doing long, sustained cornering with slicks, you don't need to be in a hurry to buy either product. I have no personal experience with either product but forum members have only said good things that I have seen.

crimlwC6

Keep an eye on oil level and run the GM recommended extra quart of oil.

bellwilliam

that doesn't work for me. when I over-fill, oil spew out from air filter housing..... a lot of oil

bellwilliam

200TW tires are also super sticky. equal if not more grip than typical R-comp like NT01, RC1, R888....

I would also like to know if these are any good for LS6 too. yes, LS6 is better than LS1 in this regard..

bigmackloud

While I was doing my engine rebuild, I decided the baffles would be a worthwhile investment. They are a quality product, and the installation is straight forward.

There isn't but so much you can do with the factory oiling system. The next step would be an accusump, or if you have the budget, a dry-sump is the ultimate answer.

Here's a video I did during my install, so you can see the product and how they install.

JHrinsin

Watch you oil temps. 5w-30 shears down very fast at elevated temps so if you have not already, you may want to step up to say a 0w-40 or 5w-40 to protect the bearings.

Either the '01-03 LS6 or '04-05 LS6 valley cover and PVC breather setup may help better control oil consumption at the track. Or you maybe able to get away with just an oil catch can kit.

I already have a later 2-pcs pan that I plan to install in my '99 FRC along with those Improved Racing trap door baffles. You may also want to look at their thermostatically controlled oil cooler adapter as well along with an oil cooler setup. My plan is to use it with a Setrab 13 row Series 6 cooler with a Lingenfelter mount and hardware kit.

bigmackloud

All good suggestions. I run the Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40 and have been happy with it.

Also during my rebuild, I swapped from the LS1 valley cover to the 04-05 LS6 valley cover. I also have an Elite Engineering catch can that I've been happy with.

I also have the Improved Racing oil cooler adapter with thermostat that I run with a Setrab 625 cooler. I fabricated my own bracket to mount it. Overall very happy with that setup also. I think some sort of oil cooler is almost mandatory when you start tracking hard during the summer heat.

JHrinsin

bellwilliam

thanks for the video, makes it much easier to visualize !!
question, since the baffle doors are just press fit, won't it come loose and fall down ? then get wedged between the oil pans. which means the trap door won't swing any more ?

Tykrane30

I appreciate the input and advice! I planned on installing an EOC prior to this upcoming season and switching to probably a 5W40 oil to help with oil temps. I was pushing them a little higher than i would've liked on the track last season so I didn't go too far between oil changes. I also had plans for the LS6 PCV swap along with a catch can just for some more cheap insurance. Potentially an accusump in there as well.

I'm looking to bulletproof the motor and driveline as much as i can with my current budget.

Tykrane30

I appreciate the video! I had actually run across it earlier yesterday before I posted this, It really helped me visualize how the baffles were installed and how they functioned in the car. I currently have plans to do all that you had mentioned this season minus the Dry Sump (for now)

I'm just looking for as much advice and personal experiences with products so i can bulletproof the motor as much as i can as i get faster and faster on track.

tmtraylor

The bottom oil pan cover/piece has mating ridges that support and create a "sandwich" for the baffle doors.

crimlwC6

Hmmm...your info on tires isn't correct.

If the LS1 is puking oil you need to go with a catch can and/or some of the other suggestions. It has been awhile since I didn't have a catch can and even longer since having an LS1 in the car. Good luck.

C5Z06CE

I ran HPDE 1-2 with an extra quart of oil and NO baffle. Since advancing to the faster run groups (HPDE 3 & 4 and now TT2) I had the baffle installed. Never had any issues running MOSTLY at Sebring, and less so at Homestead, Roebling Road, PBIR, the Firm, and Autocross at any time over the last 4 years with or without the baffle. However, I would say as you get stronger in your skills it probably makes sense to help preserve the motor to install the baffles. It's good insurance that your motor remains lubricated and not starved of oil. As mentioned above, I too have been running an oil cooler up front with a Setrab 625 oil cooler.

So, I would say it's decent insurance for your car but not a must until you get faster. Just get a good catch can for now. Then get an oil cooler and then install the baffles. FYI, We recently did a compression test on my motor and it was within 5-7% of factory specs. GM considers anything within 10% to be normal on the day it left the factory. The last 15,000 miles have been hard track miles.

bigmackloud

The baffles press into place on the support ridges of the upper pan. The lower pan has corresponding ridges, so the baffles are locked into place. You actually have to trim the lower pan gasket to account for the thickness of the baffles. So no worries about them falling out of place.

JHrinsin

Just wondering now that two of you have mentioned the Setrab 625 cooler, are the shorter; 613, 616 or 619 not up to the task? Or where you just err on the conservative side to be safe by going with the taller 625?

C5Z06CE

I used the biggest oil cooler I could fit in the hole. I cut out the license plate and made a screen to place it at about a 45 degree angle under the front frame.

bigmackloud

The 625 is the only one I've personally tested... so I can't say a smaller one wouldn't cut it. The Doug Rippie kit recommends the 619 for a street car and the 625 for a track car. I think that's a pretty good recommendation for most people. You're not likely to go too big on the oil cooler.

Mine is mounted in front of the radiator/condenser. I fabricated a simple bracket that mounts to the radiator support crossbar and it leans back at the same angle as the condenser.

I just installed a DeWitts radiator which is thicker and discovered that it interferes with my current bracket. So I'll have to fabricate a new one, but it will mount the same, just slightly forward a bit.

JHrinsin

Good point, I plan to install the fabriacate 2-row aluminum radiator first, then see about mounting the oil cooler. I will have to look at the taller coolers, extra capacity is not a bad thing, especially with a thermostatically controlled adapter.