Nick__S

Hi all,
Soon I will be picking up an enclosed trailer (ATC Raven, 24' long) to tow my car to and from the race track. In the future I hope to find a nice C5 or C6 that has already been nicely track prepped to buy for my full time track toy. I'm looking at getting some race ramps to make loading and unloading cars from my trailer easier. I've been researching race ramps and they offer some different sizes. I was wondering what sizes the majority have found to work well with the Corvettes (especially ones that are lower than stock)? The sizes I'm looking at are:

Race Ramps: https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/trai...tension-ramps/
RR-TR-5: 5" tall x 67" long and a 4.3° incline angle
RR-TR-7: 7" tall x 74" long and a 5.5° incline angle.
RR-TR-7-FLP: 7 inches tall x 74" long and a 5.5° incline angle (has a relief area for the extra trailer flap to fold down into)
RR-TR-8: 8" tall x 54" long and a 8.7° incline angle.

I'm liking the the TR-5 or TR-7 due to smaller incline angles. But I'm not sure if there is a certain size that experience has shown works best. I'd just like to make sure I would be able to get a lower Vette into my trailer some day.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

lobsterroboto

I use the RR-TR-5 5" ramps to load my open trailer. (the steel trailer ramps are 3")

My car is lower than stock on LG G2 coilovers and I have no real problems with the angle.

fleming23

I have the RR-TR-7-FLP for my 24' inTech. The ramp door sits on the edge of the RR, giving you a less aggressive incline. That combined with jacking the trailer tongue up and you can get just about anything inside without scraping.

When you are done, and the car is loaded, they slide right under the car between the tires.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

You can use the trailer ramp calculator at https://www.reverselogic.us/race-ramps to get a good estimate of the inch-by-inch car-to-ramp clearance measurements for a large range of Race Ramps models.

The RR-TR-5 will handle a lower approach angle on your car than the RR-TR-7. But, you could end up plowing into the trailer door since the the door will be positioned with a steeper incline than it would with the 7" high ramp.

If you have a flap on the trailer door you will have to remove it or flip it onto the door to use the RR-TR-5 or RR-TR-7 ramps. Flipping the flap onto the door could be an issue for a very low ground clearance car. The RR-TR-7-FLP, RR-TR-9-FLP, and RLL-99-IS+EXT-FLP ramps have a flap cut-out to accommodate the trailer door flap.

The RLL-99 progressive incline ramp has a 3.5 degree initial incline that sweeps up to 7 or 8 degrees at the high end of the ramp.

Nick__S

Thanks for the great feedback and advice so far everyone! I really appreciate the insight.

duk007

I have a 24’ ATC quest 305. I use the rr-tr-7 with the flap door. The flap door is only 1” thick and I place the rear door in the cut out on the ramp and fold the “flap” onto the ramp. It fits perfect.

I load a c5z race car, and a c6z that’s lowered on the bolts , both with no issues or jacking up the tongue. Just pull up the trailer.

Good luck, they are great products

Gary2KC5

does your trailer have a driver door on the road side? or do you just plan on using a winch?

best method is to winch the trailer in, if not driving it in will require a ramp/platform on the drivers side for the car door to clear the wheel wells and let the door swing into the open trailer driver door.

Nick__S

Awesome! This is what I was really hoping for. Someone with a similar ATC that has experience with a specific set of ramps.

So to clarify you have the RR-TR-7-FLP that has the cutout for the flap or you just use the regular RR-TR-7 that only has the one step and the door flap still unfolds to fit on top of the ramp?

Nick__S

Yes my trailer has the drivers side escape door but I also felt better about winching it in (more controlled and less chance of mis-alignment) so I will also have a winch on the trailer to pull it on and let it off with. I figured part of the reason for the trailer is to have a ride home if the car has a mechanical break down. If it has a mechanical break down then it might not be possible to drive it onto the trailer so then I’d be asking for help to push.

Gary2KC5

after fighting the rational that I have the drivers escape door, I've been winching the car in most of the time. I've cracked 2-3 splitters on the rise to get the left side of the car up to enable driving it in and opening the door...I've decided to pull up the 3 level 2x12's a just winch the car in from now on.

And I'm tired of having wood, a dove tail rear on the trailer, 5' long race ramps and still having to put 2x4' here and there to load the car.

sabastian458

I bought a set of RR-TR-10-2 two-stage incline 10" high Race Ramps trailer ramps and can drive my car right up and into the trailer. However I dont have one of the “escape doors” on the trailer so I have to crawl out of the trunk. Not easy to do. I will be adding a winch and other necessary items to just winch the car in with.

duk007

I have the cut out, and then the flap goes right over top of the ramp. I have to unload my c6z and load my c5z this weekend, I'll take some pics.

Nick__S

Pics would be very appreciated! Thank you!

duk007

I'll get you some pics but here is a short vid I did for another member asking about loading a year or so ago. I shows the ramps...

duk007

If you look at the ramp there is a large square notch for the rear door to rest on , then there is a less pronounced area around 18"-24" long for the flap to rest. It fits very well with the ATC flap. I have a Quest, but the Raven should be the same ( was going to buy a raven and they are similar in dimensions)

Nick__S

Awesome. That helps a lot. And I can see the cutout in the ramps for the trailer door flap. Looks like it works great. I think this has made up my mind for me. I’ll go with the RR-TR-7-FLP.

duk007

Glad I could help. The only issue I had was actually not in the loading, but strapping the car down. My cars are so low, I put a small race ramp in the front to get the front tires up a little so I could get the front of the car in the air a little so it's easier to get the straps on the front.

The trailer is awesome. It gets lots of attention at the track.

Nick__S

You know it could be a problem if your trailer is getting more attention at the track then your track car does

Your trailer does look nice though. Mine won’t be quite a finished looking being a Raven series. But I plan to paint the wood walls white and I’m hoping the wood walls will be more useful for hanging brackets and stuff where I want so I can customize it a little easier.

Thanks again for your replies and video link!

Nick__S

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I just placed my order for the RR-TR-7-FLP.

davidfarmer

I have the RR-80-10-2 since it can be used with the trailer, but also for service. I also have an ATC trailer, and removed the "flap" from the door and cut and angled edge on the end of the door to help my splitter clear.

I still need a little help loading, extra boards etc, with my extended splitter, but the ramps are very nice and I use them regularly.