GoGators!

agree. but have you looked at his social media post from the build? had absolutely no idea on basic cage design and triagulation. used chain link fence tube. cannot weld. etc. Potentially, he wasnt even buckled.

That being said, i dont know that i would survive the same impact he took in my '68 C3 or the kart....

Tom400CFI

^Agree^. Just LOOK at that "cage". Yikes.




Yes....yes....it's virtual suicide to pilot a car with no SMC panels on it. Excellent point. I wonder though...how do people manage to make it down the road, alive, in Jeeps with the doors off?? With your totally unhelpful post, you quite literally are: "trying to debate the merits of doing this"


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Tom400CFI

Hey, thanks a LOT for posting....for the vids and for the info! Our local group wants to put me in AM too...and that is fine with me. I don't care if I'm competitive or not; I'm STRICTLY looking for fun here. I've auto-x'ed for over 20 years and never really GAF about points, ranking, PAX, etc. All I care about is a fun time, doing the best that I can do, and having and "experience".

You're vids look wicked. The car looks ferocious. I love it! I'm trying to find a person to help me build my cage right now. I can weld just fine...but I don't have a pipe bender. Anyway, I'm currently talking with a guy who builds pro cages for NHRA cars, so we'll see how that pans out...then try to get it on the road, and to some events.

Did you reg your car as a 'Vette? Or as a "custom" car?

fleming23

Tom400CFI

Let's examine this a little bit, shall we?

First, here is my original question, and title of the thread:

"Requirements for Solo II'ing a "Vette Kart"?
...That being said, here is my question; What needs to be done to make it "legal" to run solo II? Does it NEED a cage? It will have one...but damn, I'd live to give 'er a rip as it sits and then see the progression going forward...."

...so you're answering or addressing this question....how?




And this has what to do with...what?? If the doors are removed, they're not there...so what's it matter if they're structural or not?? And regarding "structural doors" what cars' doors ARE "structural" (HINT: none)


All of the same structure is in place in my Kart ('89 C4), as the stock C4 had when it left the factory, with the exception of the roof, which is removable at will. The car is as structurally sound as it was when new...and as structurally sound as the stock '92 'Vette that I currently drive in B Street at every event. So...."Zero support"??


I think twice before I engage in all activities. PART of that "thinking twice" was seeking input from those who know SCCA rules better than I do, who could assist me in my goals. Are you assisting me in my goals? It sure doesn't seem like it. Ya post an irrelevant link to some dumbass that ruined a Honda, doesn't know how to weld, make a roll cage, or drive...then project that same risk to a C4 'Vette that's had the SMC removed?? That is quite misguided.



Smartest, and best contribution that you've made to this thread, yet.


EDIT: That car in your avatar...that your car? My Kart's frame, as you see it in the pics is twice as stiff, more crashworthy and stronger than that car you're driving. So..you know...Hopefully this trend of driving antique, outdated cars slows down and people think about the risks involved. Know what I mean, 'pard? Just to be clear, this point was made to make a point; that you're being an alarmist. In reality, I completely support your driving of an older/classic car, regardless of the cars' safety. I believe that you'll take the responsibility to drive it accordingly...just like I do when I drive (oh, the HORROR)....this:



...which I drive as much as I get the chance to....even on public roads!


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GoGators!

Yea, no problem. drop me a PM if you want my email or other contact info.

It is a handful for sure. 500+ hp on a square set of 315s, at ~2500lbs. = good times. it will spin the tires any time you want, sometimes you don't want, in second gear, which makes for fun autocross cornering!!

I used NASA and SCCA cage specs as a guideline. anyone who can get cages qualified for NHRA should be capable of this fairly easy task (no body constraints to deal with!) I ended up buying speedways tube bender for ~$400. had a buddy do the tig welding after I mig tacked it.

mine has a rebuilt title. it was totalled when I bought it at auction. its registered as a rebuilt 98 corvette convertible. which, if you squint real hard, it is.

Tom400CFI

Thanks again, for the great post. Yes PM sent as I do have some more questions for you about the Kart.

64Scout

I was going to comment on what looked like a bungee holding the battery in, but you have taken care of that. I went over the rules quite a bit when I was wanting to auto my Fiero, which had a relocated battery. The rules said it had to be secured in a marine box, which meant the mount and hold down I made wouldn't work. I sold that car before racing it, so I can't comment any more on my battery mount. When I etched my vet yesterday the inspector didn't seem to look at much, but on yours they may be pickier. Also, I hope there is a hold down that I don't see, and not a battery just sitting loose.

Tom400CFI

Ha ha ha..nah...the battery is just sitting in there, floating around. Some times when I turn to the left, the battery slides to the right, and the positive terminal shorts agains the frame. It's pretty exciting and adds to the "amusement park ride" experience, with sparks flying and arcing going on. It's OK though, b/c you only turn left for a couple seconds before you're turning right and then the battery slides the other way and the arcing stops.


I'm kidding. I have a stock Chevy truck battery tray welded into the bottom of that battery frame. The battery is firmly secured to the OEM, GM styled tray/hold down. If that isn't sufficient (and I can't figure why it wouldn't be), then the marine battery box addition is good information that I was not aware of, so thank you for sharing that bit. It sounds like, from what you wrote, that if you move the battery from it's OEM location, that is what triggers the "marine battery box" requirement? Obviously, tons of people auto-x cars just fine using a standard GM battery hold-down.

64Scout

I've had batteries move around in old beater street cars, one bounced off the tray and fell into the fan. I didn't notice until I stopped and it wouldn't start back up. Turns out the negative battery cable got yanked out of the clamp, and the fan wore a hole in the end of the battery at the bottom, and the acid leaked out of that cell.

Tom400CFI

Sounds messy....and unpleasant to deal with.

Yep, a "mobile" battery could get ugly quickly...that is why I made sure that my hold down is bomber. Whether it will pass an SCCA rule or not is a different matter.