kdm123

In order to install a remote clutch slave cylinder bleeder on a C5, do you have to pull the tranny or other parts of the driveline?

I'm trying to solve the sticky-clutch-pedal issue by flushing the whole system and replacing the nasty old fluid in the distal end of the system.

k24556

The clearance in the tunnel to get to the fitting on the slave that is there now is very tight. All the current offerings for remote bleeders I know of have a small fitting and a crush washer, then the flex line.

So the basic answer is yes, to get a remote bleeder in, you have to split the torque tube from the bell housing. Then if your clutch is OK, still replace the pilot bearing in the end of the crank for insurance sake.

kdm123

Yeah, that's what I figured. I've been putting this off for a while due to the labor costs involved but the car is almost undriveable now at some tracks like Auto Club Speedway.

bigmackloud

Honestly, I think it would be a nightmare trying to get it installed while the TT is still in the car.

I also don't think flushing the fluid is the full solution to your sticking clutch pedal (might help, but not the long term solution). Honestly the answer always seems to be a new clutch... which is also a perfect time to install a remote bleeder.

wrkdWS6

3X2

I've done it when the remote hose burned against the left header and leaked fluid. Although rather difficult, it can be done in the car. A quick how to: Support the car on 4 stands, remove intake manifold and steering shaft from the rack, lower shock nuts & bolts, calipers and secure them, upper control arm bolts. Lower the front cradle to get enough room to get a wrench in to remover stock bleeder, while keeping and eye out for anything binding or being pulled tight (rad hoses, wiring, etc). Install new fitting then the hose. Remember, this was a quicky, simple how to explanation and some steps may have been omitted.

fatbillybob

I installed mine in situ. I made a tool to tighten the bleeder fitting. I cut 1/4th of a socket and welded on a piece of wrench handle. Think brake line wrench but out of a socket.

NSFW

A couple people have done it, but it sounds like almost as much of a pain in the *** as dropping the drivetrain. I'm thinking about it....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-removal.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

kdm123

This has probably been covered elsewhere, but what is the best aftermarket slave cylinder with remote bleeder attachment? Thanks for all your advice so far.

wrkdWS6

I don't believe there are any aftermarket slaves for our cars. General consensus is to go with a new OEM GM one. Many speedbleeders to choose from, I chose the Tick one as it came recommended from my local LS performance shop. Quality is good, I recommend.

Gary2KC5

consider this...I put a remote on my 6Z06 when we put a new engine in. it came loose at my next track event. I thought I had a slave failure, towed it to RPM transmissions in Indiana. They said the bleeder came loose and advised not to use a remote. Just pump out the old by pulling out the fluid in the reservoir replace with new and repeat until clean.

kdm123

I wish that would work, but unfortunately it does not. The old fluid down at the slave cylinder doesn't circulate up to the master.

I'm surprised the RPM advised against a remote bleeder.

NSFW

You might want to look at some Youtube videos about the "ranger method" of changing clutch fluid.

Also, this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-method.html

kdm123

I'm told that the Ranger method does not work. It hasn't worked for me--I've often sucked out the old fluid in the master and replaced it.

However, the link you provided shows a method I've not heard of before. This method sucks the fluid out from the line near the slave cylinder. I wonder if this cures the problem. I read through the thread, but it didn't seem that any of the guys posting did many track events. The sticky-clutch-pedal problem only manifests itself on the track, and only when there is a lot of shifting involved. At Willow, I have no problems. At Buttonwillow, I have to shift slowly, and the pedal sometimes sticks and I can't rely on my downshifts always going smoothly. At Auto Club Speedway, the car was undriveable, with the pedal sticking constantly.

k24556

We had a 2000 C5 convertible and it was only a drive-on-nice-days, trip, touring car. We had the sticky pedal in that car about 3 years after taking delivery. It was barely under warranty and the dealer replaced the slave and master to solve it. I think it was because of all the stop and go driving it saw, which is probably as hard on the clutch as tracking the car. the slave was totally gunked up. After that I made sure i put the car in neutral at any stop and did not hold the clutch in.

My 2000 FRC on the other hand, went years of track duty before I had similar problems, but I was able to put my toe under the pedal and get it to come up (until I finally put a remote in).

As I think through installing remotes, I wonder if the lower part of the bell housing can be removed on a C5 (C6's do not have a split BH) and access possible to manipulate the fittings in there. I think if someone made a long fitting, about the same length as the OEM bleeder, but with a AN-3 fitting on top, MAYBE you could install from the top. The TICK remotes, and Monster Clutch remotes (the two I have used) have a short modified fitting with crush washer then the hose. It would be nearly impossible to install from the top and the risk of dropping would probably be high. One of the previous posters is correct, you can see the bleeder if you take the intake off, and You would probably have to remove the oil pressure sensor too to get enuf room for a hand, especially if you are like me with big hands.

Since I no longer have a C5 or C6, and my C7 is auto, I've kinda lost interest in solving the clutch sticking problem, but is sure is a PITA when it happens. At one time I considered silver brazing an AN-3 fitting on a retired OEM bleeder (because I was thinking workaround to avoid splitting the drivetrain at the TT). The internal guts would have to be removed from the OEM bleeder and the very top cut off, then the AN-3 drilled for the proper clearance for a braze job.

Moto One

Just to add to this, I have changed the thought out bearing and worked on a loose hydraulic line to it by removing the H-Pip, cover plate, and "lowering the rear cradle off it's pins". This let me move the TT/trans back enough to access the TB, and the line. It's tight working but possible.

I'm sure this doesn't really help. I believe that the sticky/dropped clutch is cause by TB's that are overheating from poor manufacturing, or constantly in contact with pressure plate arms.

I'll go away now.

Mark.

NSFW

It sounds like the ranger method basically just dilutes the dirty fluid with clean fluid, repeatedly. Plenty of people claim that it helps, but I'm sure a proper bleed does a better job by truly replacing the dirty fluid.

The hose method sounds like it dilutes more effectively, and with less work, but of course it's still limited by the fact that you can only access one end of the system. I'm going to give it a try this weekend in hopes of not hitting this problem at my first track day.

fatbillybob

Going against remote bleeder is going against conventional wisdom. People often apply the remote bleeder after they already have a problem. Abrasive Clutch dust does indeed end up in the master reservoir so must destroy the seals. Once that is destroyed no bleeding is going to help. IMO if the remote bleeder is applied before destruction then you have something good. I have raced my C5Z since about '05 without issue with a remote bleeder and on ACS regularly where we in SCCA T1 had the original problems with sticking clutch pedals. The solution seemed to be a clutch pack in good working order, remote bleeder, and not shifting at the highest RPM in NASCAR T1/T2 where the fastest T1 guys were using higher than stock RPM limits. My stock clutch plate disinterated at ACS doing that. So I'm at stock rpm limit and I believe my engine will last longer for doing that and you tax your wet sump oil lubrication system less too. The SCCA T1 guys who have graduated to wings and splitters in GT2 have mostly all drysumped too because of blowing up engines. So we just keep going down the slippery slope fixing one issue until we find the next weak link. So goes the adage to make a "small fortune" in racing you start with a big one.

Rx7Rob

Like K24556 I was going to weld up my own from a used bleeder. I ended just paying the $ and getting the Katech bleeder. I believe its the only one that uses the correct thread and it doesn't use a crush washer.

bellwilliam

my c5z06 is pretty stock, stock power, stock suspension. only mod is big Dewitt radiator with EOC and tires. I also have sticky clutch issue at ACS track.
I have tried Ranger method, it does NOT work. my master reservoir fluid is clean.