NoradIV

Here, in communist canada, there is a sales tax coast to coast, and in shithole quebec, there is another province sales tax, totalling 15%.

Duty insure that "proper" tax is paid.

If the product is MADE in a non-nafta country, aditionnal duty may be charged.

Oh, and our duty is based on the total amount paid, so that is the 4600$+us sales tax (0$ in essex case)+shipping, converted to CAD. Take whatever amount that is, then we get 15% in duty.

Nowanker

^^ Ahhh, understand that now!
My sympathies!

Soloontario

Norad, I too am Canadian and on a budget (can't afford the divorce) but reasonably experienced with a C5Z and track use. I would love to have a bigger brake kit but have been happy enough with home made ducts, Castrol SRF, Raybestos ST43 pads front and rear (long lasting, pretty rotor friendly and much less likely to taper) and very importantly KNS or DBA rotors. These rotors expand more radially than stock which likely helps with the tapering as well as brake feel.

St Eustache doesn't allow for much brake cooling. You might try coming to Shannonville later in August. Not too far from La Belle Province http://www.shannonville.com/ You can run with the Ontario Time-Attack group https://time-attack.ca/ later this month. Much faster tracks, free instruction and lots of Corvettes.

NoradIV

Oh, that is only 350km from where I live. I will check the schedule if I can go there later this year (Work is sending me to malaysia somewhere in late august-early september).

Thanks for that link!

Looks like my rear axle is going out, so even less money for brakes next spring. From what I understand, ducts will work regardless what braking system I end up with. My plan so far for next spring is to get the same pads/fluid, but upgrade to much better disks and get the quantum spinel kit, then figure out myself how to attach them to the existing ducts.

Soloontario

Not to disparage spindle ducts but my experience has not been that good if using a plate that tries to keep the air localized to the centre of the rotor. Although it makes great sense, when stopped it doesn't allow the air around the rotors and hence the rotors themselves to cool evenly, leading to uneven cooling and the eventual cracking. Most of us have heard the dreaded "plink" of a rotor cracking as it is cooling. I have never experienced a rotor cracking while it was actually hot but found that using a plate against the inside of the rotor actually promoted cracking and didn't prevent it.although for all I know it may have helped hot performance. Presently I use just some 2.5" tubing attached to the front end of the OEM large useless duct and snake it through to a home made spindle mounted attachment that aims air at the middle of the rotor. Obviously I would like a larger tube but this stuff is easy to replace or repair when it inevitably gets damaged by wide tires anywhere near close to steering lock.

How do I know this makes any difference? Seems that I am getting much longer rotor and pad life without loss of performance as detected by me. Admittedly not very objective.

BTW, not sure if this has been mentioned earlier in the post but make sure your front hubs are good. A bad front hub will certainly seem like you are having a badly fluctuating pedal when all that is happening is bad brake pad kick back.

NoradIV

Hello guys. Little update.

I realized that my car was understeering, like bad, making me brake quite a lot. So I have done this.

• Swapped front tires from 265/35ZR19 to 275/35ZR19. Made a very nice improvement
• Replaced all tie rods (front and back) which were quite loose and got the car aligned from -0.8 to -1.5 camber (tie rods were too short to go further safely), 0.5 degree toe out. This made the steering much more responsive and lighter.
• Swapped both bad rear bearings to SKF racing.

This whole thing made the car behave very differently. Now, instead of always understeering, I get a very slight oversteer after the apex, meaning that I have to lean a bit on the gas and put some weight in the back. Still understeer at the corner entry.
Because of that, I get to keep a little more speed in the corner, so less brakes. Also, bad hubs in the back was likely doing pad knockback.

I have done two sessions last week. The first was good; I only got some fluid boiling (pedal was softer), but at least, it was reliable; no half-pedal of nothing before something happened. I suspect that the hubs were most of the problem, and keeping the speed in the corner only helped in reducing the fluid temperature.

Bill Dearborn

I used to run 315/35/17 square on my C5s. Cars handled great. However, the lack of 17 inch R compound tires after 2008 drove me to running 305 square on 18x10.5 wheels the last year I had the car. The stock calipers are subject to a lot of longitudinal pad taper which can cause the brake pedal to drop like an anchor during a session. Make sure you aren't trying to solve a pad taper issue by bleeding the brakes, it won't work. If the pedal starts to drop while you are on track try tapping it with your left foot as you are getting ready to hit the brakes. That will seat the pads against the rotor so you won't feel exceedingly long pedal travel when you hit the brakes to slow. Just keep your right foot to the floor and reach over and tap the brake pedal with your left foot. Swap brake pads from the left side caliper to the right side caliper and vice versa after each day. The second day's wear will compensate for the first day's wear. Don't flip the pads vertically just move them horizontally from one caliper to the other (inside left front caliper pad moves to outside right front caliper pad position, outside left front caliper pad ends up in inside right front caliper pad position).

Bill