Notices
Autocrossing & Roadracing Suspension Setup for Track Corvettes, Camber/Caster Adjustments, R-Compound Tires, Race Slicks, Tips on Driving Technique, Events, Results
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Help: Steering Bushing (DRM) Questions

 
Old 07-20-2018, 09:58 AM
  #1  
anth115
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Posts: 169
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default Help: Steering Bushing (DRM) Questions

Cross posting here as this question got buried in the C6 General forum:
Hey everyone. So I’m trying to install the DRM aluminum steering bushing that replaces the stock rubber one on the passenger side of the rack. The car is a 2006 z06.

I have a few questions before I proceed and would love some feedback from those who’ve done it/know:
  1. DRM provides 3 pics as guidance (1-3 below). The first pic provided by DRM shows two bolts to be loosened with nuts on the other side of each. The passenger one (pic 4) is easy to identify, but I’m unclear on which drivers side bolt to loosen. I think the pics Randy provided are from a C5 - a pic of what I see is attached (pics 5&6) Further, of those bolts, how do I get behind any of them to access the nut? Or is that only on the passenger side?
  2. The instructions elsewhere (forget where) say to apply red locktite to the 13mm nut on the steering rack (pic 7). Is that correct/necessary? I feel like I’d regret that if I ever need to service/replace the rack.
  3. I cannot find any info on torque specs for any of the hardware mentioned above. Can anyone advise on what that would be?
Thanks!



1


2


3


4


5


6


7

Last edited by anth115; 07-20-2018 at 09:59 AM.
anth115 is offline  
Old 07-20-2018, 11:44 AM
  #2  
Jfryjfry
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2017
Posts: 449
Thanks: 0
Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts
Default

The pictures he provides shows the two bolts. But on yours, they’re a little more hidden and buried (behind the ps cooler on the pass side and the abs on the driver’s side. I just did mine.

I wouldnt worry about putting a little loctite on - you’re not welding it together.

a quick google search shows 74 lb-ft.

You will likely have to clearance the hole in the rack a little. I feel like I also clearanced the bushing on the outside a little more than as it came so it could slide all the way in without fouling on the body of the rack. I also had no way to get the sleeve in to clear the tabs on the crossmember. I have no idea how they got it in in the factory but with the motor in, my sleeve was 1/8-3/16” too wide and I could not spread the tabs enough to get it back in.

So so I can not recommend this, but I ground a little off of the sleeve.

Overall not bad.

Last edited by Jfryjfry; 07-20-2018 at 11:46 AM.
Jfryjfry is offline  
Old 07-20-2018, 11:47 AM
  #3  
anth115
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Posts: 169
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jfryjfry View Post
The pictures he provides shows the two bolts. But on yours, they’re a little more hidden and buried (behind the ps cooler on the pass side and the abs on the driver’s side. I just did mine.

I wouldnt worry about putting a little loctite on - you’re not welding it together.

a quick google search shows 74 lb-ft.

You will likely have to clearance the hole in the rack a little. I feel like I also clearanced the bushing on the outside a little more than as it came so it could slide all the way in without fouling on the body of the rack. I also had no way to get the sleeve in to clear the tabs on the crossmember. I have no idea how they got it in in the factory but with the motor in, my sleeve was 1/8-3/16” too wide and I could not spread the tabs enough to get it back in.

So so I can not recommend this, but I ground a little off of the sleeve.

Overall not bad.
Hey, thanks a lot for the info. Is the driver's side bolt visible from my pics? I didn't notice any other bolts besides what's shown in those. Also, is there a nut on the backside of it too?
anth115 is offline  
Old 07-20-2018, 12:17 PM
  #4  
Jfryjfry
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2017
Posts: 449
Thanks: 0
Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts
Default

No, not in your pics. Easiest to see from bottom when you loosen and move the abs block.

And yes, bolt and nut. Iirc, I did it mostly by feel on that side.

Jfryjfry is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Jfryjfry For This Useful Post:
anth115 (07-20-2018)
Old 07-20-2018, 01:58 PM
  #5  
Joshboody
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 624
Thanked 27 Times in 25 Posts
Default

I just did this on C5. The DRM bushing was a VERY tight fit into the crossmember tabs. I had to hammer with wood blocks from side and top after making sure the bushing to steering rack surfaces were mating flush. I think DRM should reduce the bushing shoulder thickness by about 0.2mm from each side.
Joshboody is offline  
Old 07-21-2018, 12:29 AM
  #6  
anth115
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Posts: 169
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default


Guys, a few more questions:

1. is this the drivers side bolt circled in red? (Pic attached)
2. Is the abs system attached to those two bolts sitting vertically in line with each other (to the left of the circled bolt)? If so, are there more bolts for that bracket before I can move it? Any risk/issues from moving it over (to the lines attached to it)? Haven’t found much info/diagrams on that so I just want to be sure?

Once I get this fully sorted I’ll make a proper DIY guide for it. Seems like that puts a lot of people off from making this mod.

Last edited by anth115; 07-21-2018 at 12:30 AM.
anth115 is offline  
Old 07-21-2018, 01:29 AM
  #7  
Jfryjfry
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2017
Posts: 449
Thanks: 0
Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts
Default

Yeah, that’s the nut side. Just loosen it.

And yes, those two vertical bolts are the abs block mount. No worry about taking them off and just pushing it over a little.

Dont force it for sure but the lines and wires can move around quite a bit.

Last edited by Jfryjfry; 07-21-2018 at 01:30 AM.
Jfryjfry is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Jfryjfry For This Useful Post:
anth115 (07-27-2018)
Old 07-21-2018, 05:46 AM
  #8  
REVHARD
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester MI
Posts: 272
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Odd people are having issues with this. Maybe there are discrepancies from rack to rack? I did mine during my cam swap and it slipped in with zero problems or modifications. But I have a C5. Maybe the C6 rack is just slightly different?
REVHARD is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:36 PM
  #9  
mgarfias
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: scio or
Posts: 1,377
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by REVHARD View Post
Odd people are having issues with this. Maybe there are discrepancies from rack to rack? I did mine during my cam swap and it slipped in with zero problems or modifications. But I have a C5. Maybe the C6 rack is just slightly different?
My C5 had issues with the bushing. Didn't have a lathe at the time, so I shipped it back to Randy and he cut a bit and then it worked.
mgarfias is offline  
Old 07-25-2018, 09:27 AM
  #10  
93Polo
CF Senior Member
 
93Polo's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
Posts: 30,589
Thanked 140 Times in 133 Posts
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
Default

Mine (01 C5Z) went in without a problem.

It maybe stating the obvious but, be very careful with the power steering cooler, it is easy earn a trip to the ER.

Last edited by 93Polo; 07-25-2018 at 09:29 AM.
93Polo is offline  
Old 07-27-2018, 09:18 AM
  #11  
anth115
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Posts: 169
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Hey all,

Thanks for the feedback but I'm back with another question:
Can you tell me what tools you used & what angle you used to successfully loosen the nut circled in red in the pic of the driver's side above?
I loosened the PS cooler and the abs mount as shown in the pics, but I couldn't get a good angle of attack on that pesky nut, mainly because of the swaybar.
- A normal box wrench gets on there (at 7 o'clock in relation to the nut) but not with enough angle to be useful before it hits the loosened abs mount arm.
- A deep 18mm socket will get on there but then there isn't enough room to attach the wrench without hitting the swaybar.
- I tried a u-joint extension with the deep 18 but still same issue.
- A short 18mm doesn't hit the fastener as it bottoms out against the stud itself.

Any other ideas?
anth115 is offline  
Old 07-27-2018, 10:20 AM
  #12  
ArtClassShank
CF Senior Member
 
ArtClassShank's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2017
Location: Hanover Maryland
Posts: 399
Thanked 69 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by anth115 View Post
Hey all,

Thanks for the feedback but I'm back with another question:
Can you tell me what tools you used & what angle you used to successfully loosen the nut circled in red in the pic of the driver's side above?
I loosened the PS cooler and the abs mount as shown in the pics, but I couldn't get a good angle of attack on that pesky nut, mainly because of the swaybar.
- A normal box wrench gets on there (at 7 o'clock in relation to the nut) but not with enough angle to be useful before it hits the loosened abs mount arm.
- A deep 18mm socket will get on there but then there isn't enough room to attach the wrench without hitting the swaybar.
- I tried a u-joint extension with the deep 18 but still same issue.
- A short 18mm doesn't hit the fastener as it bottoms out against the stud itself.

Any other ideas?

Pop the 4 bolts holding the swaybar/bushings on and swing it down.
ArtClassShank is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to ArtClassShank For This Useful Post:
anth115 (07-27-2018)
Old 07-27-2018, 10:29 AM
  #13  
anth115
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Posts: 169
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ArtClassShank View Post
Pop the 4 bolts holding the swaybar/bushings on and swing it down.
Hm. I thought touching them might impact alignment/preload or that the 4 bolts in question wouldn't move the bar at all once loosened.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot tonight!

Last edited by anth115; 07-27-2018 at 03:25 PM.
anth115 is offline  
Old 07-28-2018, 01:50 AM
  #14  
Jfryjfry
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2017
Posts: 449
Thanks: 0
Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts
Default

Should be just fine. If there is doubt or issue, undo the endlinks, then remove the mounting bolts. Reverse the order for assembly
Jfryjfry is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Help: Steering Bushing (DRM) Questions


Sponsored Ads
Vendor Directory

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: