DK83

Hi all. I was having a great track season until I cracked the trans case while putting in a new drain plug last week. Looking for advice so I can make the necessary repairs and upgrades while the rear end of the car comes out.

Car is still a street car, but mostly used for hpde and driven to the events. I have no issues with my current transmission except it randomly pops out of reverse and the cracked rear case. I also had my first 3rd to 4th grind few weeks ago at wgi, but i'm guessing that had to do with the high trans temp light coming on shortly after.

The diff started to make some noise earlier this year, i'm guessing it's the clutch packs? Noise is most noticeable between 30-50mph. I'll be adding a trans and diff cooler(drm is the way to go?)

From the searching i've done past few days, I've found RKT in MD has a good reputation the rebuilds. I'm in North New Jersey, any shops closer to me? Is there a replacement unit for the diff or is it just a rebuild? What should I look for rebuilds in trans and diff? I've never needed to replace or upgrade those before.

Do you guys suggest replacing or upgrading anything else while the rear end is off the car? I don't have any plans to make any high HP and the car put down around 390rwhp right now. I'm looking for durability/reliability so I don't end up taking things apart again.

Thanks!

argonaut

• I used the DRM Diff and Tranny cooler for years - highly recommend
• Rick at RKT rebuilt my tranny. One thing he did which I recommend is he drilled and tapped the case for the tranny cooler return line so that the cool oil blows directly on the gear set. No matter where you source the tranny from, this is a good idea. You have a choice in gear sets. The base C5 ratios or the C5Z06 ratios. Lots of guys prefer the base C5 - you may want to do some research on the pros and cons of each.
• ECS in New Jersey. Phoenix in Phoenixville, PA. County Corvettes outside Philly. All very competent and use to working on race cars.
• There are 'built' diff options (see LG Motorsports). When it was time for me to rebuild, I just bought a new stock unit from Tick performance and installed it. It held up well.
• As long as the drive train is coming out you should consider (or at very least closely inspect): replace the clutch (preventive mx); throwout bearing, install remote bleeder, pull apart the torque tube and replace the rubber driveshaft couplers. Or as an option - put a solid one in the rear (LG motorsports sells it).