Where do you get your fasteners?
#6
Former Vendor
We source some of ours through McMaster-Carr and others through MSCDirect.com . We like MSC since they specify where each product is made and we utilize Made in USA hardware ( You can call McMaster and they'll tell you the country of origin as well). Generally MSC posts a 20% promo every week or so as well. Although McMaster-Carr's one day to our door is amazing.
-Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
-Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
#7
Race Director
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Froggy, it seems I am always looking for 'off the beaten' path type fasteners and hardware. I go to: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catego.../ha/index.html
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Froggy, it seems I am always looking for 'off the beaten' path type fasteners and hardware. I go to: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catego.../ha/index.html
#9
Melting Slicks
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BelMetric
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-10x...s8id0l3agsdlb5
They also have fully threaded 10x1.5x75mm studs...
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-10x...s8id0l3agsdlb5
They also have fully threaded 10x1.5x75mm studs...
#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
BelMetric
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-10x...s8id0l3agsdlb5
They also have fully threaded 10x1.5x75mm studs...
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-10x...s8id0l3agsdlb5
They also have fully threaded 10x1.5x75mm studs...
BTW I do not know what the original bolts are, I just see most of the suspension replacement stuff is 10.9
#11
Former Vendor
We can't recommend a specific stud but we would highly suggest going for the class 10.9 or better fastener. We would also suggest looking at buying a meter long piece of that threaded rod and cutting it off to length (can be done with a grinder) then cleaning up the threads from the cut. This would probably save you some money as well as having left over stock. McMaster sells the threaded rod, you can get a meter of class 10.9 M10x1.5 for $12. There's a reason most OEM suspension fasteners are 10.9 or better. If they factory didn't think it was needed, they wouldn't waste the money. If you want to go even further you can get class 12.9 but its about 5x as much for roughly a 20% strength increase. Due to the nature of today's world we can't recommend any specific one but that is the general direction we would look.
Hope this helps!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
Hope this helps!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
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froggy47 (08-12-2018)
#12
Advanced
McMaster Carr, Bolt Depot, or Fastenal typically if Home Depot or Lowes doesn't have it. I also make my own studs unless I need a unique end or an allen head specialty set screw/stud type.
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froggy47 (08-12-2018)
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
We can't recommend a specific stud but we would highly suggest going for the class 10.9 or better fastener. We would also suggest looking at buying a meter long piece of that threaded rod and cutting it off to length (can be done with a grinder) then cleaning up the threads from the cut. This would probably save you some money as well as having left over stock. McMaster sells the threaded rod, you can get a meter of class 10.9 M10x1.5 for $12. There's a reason most OEM suspension fasteners are 10.9 or better. If they factory didn't think it was needed, they wouldn't waste the money. If you want to go even further you can get class 12.9 but its about 5x as much for roughly a 20% strength increase. Due to the nature of today's world we can't recommend any specific one but that is the general direction we would look.
Hope this helps!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
Hope this helps!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
#14
Former Vendor
You can usually get away with a file as well. Utilize a cut off wheel to cut the stud to length. This will leave some rough ends with jagged thread endings. You can take a large file and clean up the rough face or utilize a bench grinder and take it easy. Once that's done you can then take a small file and work the jagged thread ending and smooth it out, if you have a thread file or a 60 degree triangle file those would be best. It can also help to thread a nut onto the stud before you cut it. Once you cut it you then back the nut all the way off the stud over the jagged thread end. That will help force the thread ending back into shape and them you can clean it up with a file. It sounds like a long process but its actually rather quick.
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
You can usually get away with a file as well. Utilize a cut off wheel to cut the stud to length. This will leave some rough ends with jagged thread endings. You can take a large file and clean up the rough face or utilize a bench grinder and take it easy. Once that's done you can then take a small file and work the jagged thread ending and smooth it out, if you have a thread file or a 60 degree triangle file those would be best. It can also help to thread a nut onto the stud before you cut it. Once you cut it you then back the nut all the way off the stud over the jagged thread end. That will help force the thread ending back into shape and them you can clean it up with a file. It sounds like a long process but its actually rather quick.
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froggy47 (08-13-2018)
#17
Advanced
Keep 1-2 nuts on the stud, when done cutting just back the nuts off and it cleans the thread. Or buy a cheap tap and die set from Harbor Freight but I really have only ever needed the nut on the bolt trick. Throw red loctite on that end and then insert into whatever. Use the "factory" end for the constant on/off that protrudes from the block.
Last edited by synner; 08-13-2018 at 11:14 AM.
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froggy47 (08-13-2018)
#18
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Keep 1-2 nuts on the stud, when done cutting just back the nuts off and it cleans the thread. Or buy a cheap tap and die set from Harbor Freight but I really have only ever needed the nut on the bolt trick. Throw red loctite on that end and then insert into whatever. Use the "factory" end for the constant on/off that protrudes from the block.
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froggy47 (08-14-2018)