broken sway bar endlinks
#1
broken sway bar endlinks
Hi guys. After a trip to the dragstrip I noticed both of my rear swaybar endlinks were broken. The rear bar is a T1 and the endlinks were adjustable aluminum units no clue what brand they were. I,m going to replace them with whitelines. I have them on the front bar and are happy with them. The links were in the middle holes. Any idea what could cause both of them to snap? both sides are broken in the same spot.
Last edited by Dave70; 10-03-2018 at 08:31 PM.
#2
Drifting
Usually caused by binding. The links are very short, so not much room for articulation. I would run the suspension through full travel with the links installed and see what happens. The good thing about aluminum links is that they are the fail point and will break before something else does - if you have binding.
Pappy
Pappy
#4
Race Director
you need to use the included spacers, and even though you can't get them perfect, they should have a little free articulation. Hard to imagine they both broke at exactly the same time, so one would have broken when it wasn't even load, unless something bizarre is going on at the drag launch
#5
Drifting
With that short a link you will need quite a bit of spacer buildup.
Aluminum links have no place on a Corvette. What would have happened if it was a front link in the middle of a high speed corner?
LG quiet links or equivalent are appropriate.
Aluminum links have no place on a Corvette. What would have happened if it was a front link in the middle of a high speed corner?
LG quiet links or equivalent are appropriate.
#6
Melting Slicks
i have the LG end links on my street c5z and Steinjager on my track c5z. I'll swap them if it really matters.
#8
T1 bar and links are plenty strong to race on. Been doing it in SCCA over a decade as have others. They also have misalignment spacers but it is possible to mis-install them and increase your bind.
#9
Drifting
where to get, please? mine are shorter, seems like a good idea. yes, you have to put them on the correct side, the bolt side (usually) doesnt need them. (the id on those parts should really be smaller, as they will cut into the teflon how they come, imho.)
Last edited by romandian; 10-04-2018 at 11:27 PM.
#11
Thanks guys. Lots of good info.Still puzzled as to how they both broke. The front end links are whitlines I'm gonna order a set for the rear. I just want to make sure that the same thing doesn't happen to them.the bar was not bound up in the bushings. It still moved freely. it may not have happened at the drag strip. I just noticed it shortly after.the only spacers that were on them were the washers in the picture.
#14
Race Director
you need to use the included spacers, and even though you can't get them perfect, they should have a little free articulation. Hard to imagine they both broke at exactly the same time, so one would have broken when it wasn't even load, unless something bizarre is going on at the drag launch
I have a couple of videos that show.
Last edited by froggy47; 10-14-2018 at 02:38 AM.
#16
Race Director
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Curious what your 60' was?
#17
Instructor
Not to high jack the thread but this got me thinking as I suspect i have similar trouble in my rear setup, have the Aldan coilovers with Steinjager swaybars and there endlinks did initial setup installing endlinks when suspension was loaded all was fine, then i did adjust coilovers raised the rideheight now i have some light pinging sounds from the rear.
I did not adjust the swaybar endlinks after this adjustment suspect i have bindning issues am i right ?
Should i also re adjust endlinks after adjusting rideheight ?
I did not adjust the swaybar endlinks after this adjustment suspect i have bindning issues am i right ?
Should i also re adjust endlinks after adjusting rideheight ?
Last edited by MatsA; 10-19-2018 at 04:05 PM.
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MatsA (10-20-2018)
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#20
I use these also, they are great. In my case I had to buy KLC144 and KLC139, in order to mix+match the ends to have the right diameter studs. In addition I needed to very very slightly hone out the control arm mounting hole and setup a pair of locking nuts (w/ washers) to properly clamp onto said mounting boss.
Last edited by carefulnow; 10-24-2018 at 10:01 PM.