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Please more info and pics on forward tilt rad on a c6!!!!
how it was done, mounting, rad size, everything, please. been researching this for awhile with no luck or info out there on this, especially on C6
I don't want to take over the thread on an excellent product but STANG KILLA may find this photo helpful. IIRC on my C5 the original bottom mount is used and radiator was then laid forward and brackets were made. I use a double core radiator from a stock car but so long as you use stock width or less you should be okay. Air filter is a K&N under driver headlight location.
I don't want to take over the thread on an excellent product but STANG KILLA may find this photo helpful. IIRC on my C5 the original bottom mount is used and radiator was then laid forward and brackets were made. I use a double core radiator from a stock car but so long as you use stock width or less you should be okay. Air filter is a K&N under driver headlight location.
no problem
the issue is that with the C6 you have to shorten the radiator too.
that's why I went custom built. I didnt want it sticking down lower than stock
Please more info and pics on forward tilt rad on a c6!!!!
how it was done, mounting, rad size, everything, please. been researching this for awhile with no luck or info out there on this, especially on C6
I'm conducting the same research for my C5. I'm being a big pu$$y when it comes down to purchasing aero for this car as it's not really that simple to do it correctly. I currently have a Dewitts with EOC. I have a sneaking suspicion if I turn this radiator forward it may be to tall. The upper radiator hose of the radiator, on the driver's side, may pose a problem with the factory hood hinges and shocks when the hood is folded down and closed. Which means carbon lift off hood too. I'm assuming the top of the radiator is placed at the very bottom edge of the front bumper support. Does it really matter with the angle? Gspeed has some decent pictures in one of their threads "lightweight Z06". Appears to me the C6 guys are having the same difficulties.
thats what i always assumed would have to happen 383. what was your final height?
I forget but I think it was around 19"?
I have the CnR CAD drawing somewhere so if I ever needed another I wont have to pay the $500 or so drawing fee attached to making a custom rad.
Originally Posted by REVHARD
I'm conducting the same research for my C5. I'm being a big pu$$y when it comes down to purchasing aero for this car as it's not really that simple to do it correctly. I currently have a Dewitts with EOC. I have a sneaking suspicion if I turn this radiator forward it may be to tall. The upper radiator hose of the radiator, on the driver's side, may pose a problem with the factory hood hinges and shocks when the hood is folded down and closed. Which means carbon lift off hood too. I'm assuming the top of the radiator is placed at the very bottom edge of the front bumper support. Does it really matter with the angle? Gspeed has some decent pictures in one of their threads "lightweight Z06". Appears to me the C6 guys are having the same difficulties.
You're exactly right theres more that needs to be taken into account than juts height. The upper rad hose was a tight one, especially with an internal EOC.
I'm conducting the same research for my C5. I'm being a big pu$$y when it comes down to purchasing aero for this car as it's not really that simple to do it correctly. I currently have a Dewitts with EOC. I have a sneaking suspicion if I turn this radiator forward it may be to tall. The upper radiator hose of the radiator, on the driver's side, may pose a problem with the factory hood hinges and shocks when the hood is folded down and closed. Which means carbon lift off hood too. I'm assuming the top of the radiator is placed at the very bottom edge of the front bumper support. Does it really matter with the angle? Gspeed has some decent pictures in one of their threads "lightweight Z06". Appears to me the C6 guys are having the same difficulties.
The DeWitts works fine for this application. I’ve also used the Ron Davis (actually prefer it). If you can find a generic stock car radiator with the right dimensions (many have done this) the job becomes even easier.
To do do this project in a manner that maximizes both cooling and aero, you need to get the maximum angle of forward lean. This is achieved by fabricating brackets to hold the top of the radiator level with the front bumper (and about 1/4” off it). You then need to fabricate a lower bracket which holds the bottom part of the radiator as close to the sway bar as possible.
Next, you have to fabricate duct work from the area above the splitter to the front of the radiator and seal it off as well as possible. On the opposite side of the radiator you need to also make sure you create some ducting to guide the air out of the chimney.
You can certainly just cut a hole in the hood and flip the radiator. You will see some benefit from the relief of heat and pressure from under the hood but like I said, if you do it right, the benefits are serious. I’ll try to find some pics of my car and post them. I’ll also post a picture of my in car video from a rain race. The pressure out of the chimney negates the need for windshield wipers. It almost looks like that vacuum thingy in the car wash that blows the water off your windshield as you exit.
Last edited by Hi Volts Z06; 11-11-2018 at 11:07 AM.
Reason: correct error
Agree with HiVolts that a Ron Davis and Dewitts fits on the C5. I also boxed in the radiator and deleted bottom feeding from my car. I just run a cheap duraflex front lip. I've removed my splitter and I haven't felt the need to replace it.
The DeWitts works fine for this application. I’ve also used the Ron Davis (actually prefer it). If you can find a generic stock car radiator with the right dimensions (many have done this) the job becomes even easier.
To do do this project in a manner that maximizes both cooling and aero, you need to get the maximum angle of forward lean. This is achieved by fabricating brackets to hold the top of the radiator level with the front bumper (and about 1/4” off it). You then need to fabricate a lower bracket which holds the bottom part of the radiator as close to the sway bar as possible.
Next, you have to fabricate duct work from the area above the splitter to the front of the radiator and seal it off as well as possible. On the opposite side of the radiator you need to also make sure you create some ducting to guide the air out of the chimney.
You can certainly just cut a hole in the hood and flip the radiator. You will see some benefit from the relief of heat and pressure from under the hood but like I said, if you do it right, the benefits are serious. I’ll try to find some pics of my car and post them. I’ll also post a picture of my in car video from a rain race. The pressure out of the chimney negates the need for windshield wipers. It almost looks like that vacuum thingy in the car wash that blows the water off your windshield as you exit.
Well its good to hear the Dewitt's will work and it's not to big when layed forward. It was one of the many things on my mind thay concerned me on how to do this . Im still thinking the car will need a lift off hood regardless. Not many areas to route an intake. I see the C6 guys run over the top towards the bumper support. Appears to have some room. The C5 guys go towards the headlights, obviously no more headlights which is a bummer.
The frame is at least 6"x4" at the front corner...anyone cut a 3" or 3.5" round hole through the frame and weld a round steal tube to connect an intake and filter? Apposed to going over the frame where the hood hinges are located?
I'm also contemplating leaving the radiator in the factory location to save myself from all the hassle. I know it's not ideal. But is the pressure differential THAT big of a deal? Will it run hotter? I read somewhere David Farmer ran it like that for a long time in world challenge and he said it was fine. Then rules changed to allow vented hoods so everyone began laying the radiators forward.
I'll have to do a write up this winter on my radiator project when I do the chimney.
there seems to be just enough differences C5 to C6 that they dont directly cross over. The swaybar and steering rack are the big ones on the bottom side and upper radiator hose fitting, hood clearance and bumper beam being the other challenges on top.
All that's aside from the intake tube which turns out to be the easy part. I still need to fab a real intake tube rather than my stock intake over the beam. There is actually a "ton" of room for a decent size tube over the top like I did.
yes, the aero and cooling difference are totally worth the trouble.
The C6 frame rail is further back, so I'm not sure if there is room or not with a stock height radiator. I haven't done mine yet, but I still think there might room. Always more things to do.....
The C6 frame rail is further back, so I'm not sure if there is room or not with a stock height radiator. I haven't done mine yet, but I still think there might room. Always more things to do.....
It would end up way too low. I think others have used a C7 radiator with success.
I went full custom because I make poor financial decisions lol
I wouldnt do it differently though. It works so good and the CnR is like a work of art
yeah i have no issues with a shorter rad than my dewitts. i think the benifits of the forward tilt and chimney/WC hood would far overcome it.
if you ever looked at the angle the air meets the radiator in a C6 its HORRIBLE and highly inefficient.
if 0* is perfect perpendicular airflow threw the rad, then the C6 stock air path meets the rad at 70-80*
ive been meaning to actually draw the stock configuration/air flow angle up in cad for quite some time.
yeah i have no issues with a shorter rad than my dewitts. i think the benifits of the forward tilt and chimney/WC hood would far overcome it.
if you ever looked at the angle the air meets the radiator in a C6 its HORRIBLE and highly inefficient.
if 0* is perfect perpendicular airflow threw the rad, then the C6 stock air path meets the rad at 70-80*
ive been meaning to actually draw the stock configuration/air flow angle up in cad for quite some time.
I'd be interested in seeing that!!
I think my setup ended being around 55°? Dont remember off the top of my head.
ok this thread might finally be the kick in the butt i need to get that done. plus garage temps arent 120* anymore.
sorry for hijacking your thread. your CF work and vent project are incredible and deserve way more credit, than the sidetrack has given them.
no problem at all 😉
I love all this stuff. I hope some day this can be my full time gig
helping people go faster is awesome and when nobody makes something, I make it.
ultra satisfying work
I just need to stop giving everything away for peanuts 😆
11-10-2018, 10:48 AM
