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Torque tube & clutches

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Old 11-14-2018, 07:50 PM
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BrianCunningham
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Default Torque tube & clutches

Saw Wheeler Dealers work on a C5 last week.
https://www.motortrendondemand.com/d...06/0_p35cu91u/
I get removing the Torque tube to change the clutch
I also get pulling the transaxle
But dropping the entire rear cradle with the suspension to change a clutch???

Did they at least change this on the later cars?

Last edited by BrianCunningham; 11-14-2018 at 07:51 PM.
Old 11-14-2018, 08:56 PM
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Scooter70
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Dropping the rear cradle is the easiest way. It's about 10 bolts after you get the calipers and rotors off. Plus you don't even need an alignment if you have a camber kit on the lower control arms.
Old 11-14-2018, 09:00 PM
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ttx350z
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Yep, rear cradle, transmission/diff have to come out to get the torque tube out. It’s faster and less work to drop everything together versus removing each individual component separately.
Old 11-15-2018, 07:56 AM
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davidfarmer
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I almost always drop the entire driveline. GM made the hydraulic fittings so that you can just drop the rear and slide it back, but getting everything lined back up is hard, and it's still trough to get the clutch out.

Drop everything and you have a great opportunity to inspect the entire driveline
Old 11-15-2018, 08:20 AM
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Fulton 1
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Originally Posted by Scooter70
Dropping the rear cradle is the easiest way. It's about 10 bolts after you get the calipers and rotors off. Plus you don't even need an alignment if you have a camber kit on the lower control arms.
FWIW, my alignment (even with camber kit installed) was off pretty good after dropping the rear cradle to replace diff/trans/clutch. Maybe just bad luck, but we ended up having to shift the cradle a tick to one side once we got it on the alignment rack so I'd recommend at least having the alignment checked after you've had the cradle out.
Old 11-15-2018, 09:17 AM
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dclafleur
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Honestly it isn't that much worse than pulling the C-beam on the C4.
Old 11-15-2018, 09:30 AM
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96CollectorSport
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Originally Posted by Fulton 1
FWIW, my alignment (even with camber kit installed) was off pretty good after dropping the rear cradle to replace diff/trans/clutch. Maybe just bad luck, but we ended up having to shift the cradle a tick to one side once we got it on the alignment rack so I'd recommend at least having the alignment checked after you've had the cradle out.
If you pin the cradle before you drop it out you will put it back in the same spot - I just drill a 3/16" hole right next to the cradle - in line with the rear cradle mount studs - into the frame and tap in a roll pin - do this on both sides and the cradle will be located properly and you won't have to re-align the car.
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:01 AM
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Fulton 1
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Originally Posted by 96CollectorSport
If you pin the cradle before you drop it out you will put it back in the same spot - I just drill a 3/16" hole right next to the cradle - in line with the rear cradle mount studs - into the frame and tap in a roll pin - do this on both sides and the cradle will be located properly and you won't have to re-align the car.
Good idea. I hadn't heard that. Thanks.
Old 11-15-2018, 02:15 PM
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fatbillybob
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
I almost always drop the entire driveline. GM made the hydraulic fittings so that you can just drop the rear and slide it back, but getting everything lined back up is hard, and it's still trough to get the clutch out.

Drop everything and you have a great opportunity to inspect the entire driveline
Agreed! That's how I do it. I welded up a craddle to drop the driveline on. Then I can roll it around a needed. It was just out of cheap square tubing.


Old 11-15-2018, 04:05 PM
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Dan H.
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I'm doing this job now, diff needs a rebuild. Its a bit intimidating i must admit! Figure this is a right of passage if I'm going to track a C5.
Old 11-16-2018, 05:03 PM
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davidfarmer
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