sick and tired of cooking the brakes.
#102
Tech Contributor
Remember, you’ll have fluid running out of the hardline so be sure to watch the level in the MC. Leaving the cap on the MC will slow the flow slightly.
one other “btw”....if the new lines aren’t DOT approved, they likely aren’t coated. That means debris can get in between the SS braiding and result in cut lines. Always be sure to carefully inspect the lines, especially if you have an “off” into gravel. While it probably won’t happen....better safe than sorry
Last edited by 96GS#007; 11-29-2018 at 12:09 AM.
#103
Former Vendor
No die, needed, just spin the smooth end of the flare nut against the file a bit. The compression of the fitting tends to mushroom the end of the straight section a bit backing up to the flare on the tubing.
#104
Drifting
Damn I forgot about that. I don't think my new Wilwood lines are DOT. What do you think about a single layer wrap of electrical tape? It shouldn't significantly change the stiffness.
one other “btw”....if the new lines aren’t DOT approved, they likely aren’t coated. That means debris can get in between the SS braiding and result in cut lines. Always be sure to carefully inspect the lines, especially if you have an “off” into gravel. While it probably won’t happen....better safe than sorry
#105
Safety Car
What about that high heat rubberized sleeve/tub people use for oil cooler lines near headers. That should be fairly resilient to road debris.
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/fire-shield-sleeve
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/fire-shield-sleeve
Last edited by smitty2919; 11-29-2018 at 04:22 PM.
#106
Tech Contributor
I’m sure tape would work but I like smitty’s idea. Tape will eventually unwrap but it’s fast and easy.
#108
Drifting
Heat shrink is easy to apply before you install the lines. The shrink comes in different shrink ratios with 10:1 great for protecting lines of all types. I have some that expired for DOD use and I was able to buy it at a good price as surplus. Check around for USA made products as I have experienced some china stuff that failed (split) on new hardware and we made the vendor replace it will the proper spec heat shrink.
#109
Former Vendor
Most all ss hose kits are produced with a jacket on them today to keep out dust from getting into the weave. Clearly better than we had some 20yrs ago.
That said there is no such thing as a DOT approved hose. The US does not issue such thing and relies on self compliance to being DOT compliant. What makes one "compliant"? The hose must have a strain relief on the end at the fitting. Most of the time this is a black plastic slip over cover. It's really more cosmetic than functional...slide it back off, it doesn't do much. Also the hoses cannot use chassis adapter fittings- if you have a stubby adapter between the chassis end and the 3AN hose end (adapter with the clip holding it) then that's not a compliant hose.
Various manufacture do different things for different reasons....at the end of the day nobody inspects or verifies your hose kits to be approved by anyone but the manufacture itself..
*As a side note, most TCE spec hoses use a straight npt adapter to the Wilwood brand caliper and then a 45 or 90 AN3 hose end. We do this specifically to ensure our customers have the pipe thread tight and cannot break it off trying to "index" or "point" the fitting the direction they desire. The hose end is infinitely adjustable for this and can be quickly changed without potential damage to the caliper. And like the rest they are compliant, but not 'approved'.
That said there is no such thing as a DOT approved hose. The US does not issue such thing and relies on self compliance to being DOT compliant. What makes one "compliant"? The hose must have a strain relief on the end at the fitting. Most of the time this is a black plastic slip over cover. It's really more cosmetic than functional...slide it back off, it doesn't do much. Also the hoses cannot use chassis adapter fittings- if you have a stubby adapter between the chassis end and the 3AN hose end (adapter with the clip holding it) then that's not a compliant hose.
Various manufacture do different things for different reasons....at the end of the day nobody inspects or verifies your hose kits to be approved by anyone but the manufacture itself..
*As a side note, most TCE spec hoses use a straight npt adapter to the Wilwood brand caliper and then a 45 or 90 AN3 hose end. We do this specifically to ensure our customers have the pipe thread tight and cannot break it off trying to "index" or "point" the fitting the direction they desire. The hose end is infinitely adjustable for this and can be quickly changed without potential damage to the caliper. And like the rest they are compliant, but not 'approved'.
The following 2 users liked this post by Todd TCE:
crimlwC6 (12-01-2018),
smitty2919 (11-30-2018)
#110
Melting Slicks
Pro Mechanic
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Ex DPRK, now just N of Medford, OR
Posts: 2,910
Received 734 Likes
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544 Posts
That pipe thread bullsh*t is the biggest knock against Wilwood, in my opinion...
Especially when it needs to be 'clocked'.
Carroll Smith would be appalled.
Especially when it needs to be 'clocked'.
Carroll Smith would be appalled.
#112
Safety Car
Thread Starter
well $hit, i got everything in the mail for my brake upgrade except the calipers.
well i just a message from ebay saying the seller refunded my order. obviously didnt like me stealing them for 15% off on black friday code on a "big" item
well i just a message from ebay saying the seller refunded my order. obviously didnt like me stealing them for 15% off on black friday code on a "big" item
#113
Safety Car
Hmmmm someone would be getting a call...
#114
Supporting Vendor
be sure to report the results.
in the meantime, somebody enlighten me why all these aftermarket calipers are stiffer. they are all aluminum and usually claim less weight. as any type of aluminum will have the same modulus the original design would have to be really stupid to flex more. what am i missing?
(i understand how a better piston and larger pads influence heat tranfer.)
in the meantime, somebody enlighten me why all these aftermarket calipers are stiffer. they are all aluminum and usually claim less weight. as any type of aluminum will have the same modulus the original design would have to be really stupid to flex more. what am i missing?
(i understand how a better piston and larger pads influence heat tranfer.)
Over the years, many different strategies have been employed to shrink the brake caliper footprint while maintaining adequate stiffness: More robust caliper bridge designs, two-piece calipers with steel through-bolts, exotic materials (i.e. Beryllium, MMC), forging rather than casting, monobloc design, etc. All of these innovations pushed calipers towards becoming lighter, smaller, and stiffer. However, until the advent of the Radi-CAL, the same basic rectangular, boxy shape remained the accepted standard.Is a rectangular box really the most appropriate and efficient shape for a brake caliper? AP Racing has now proven that it is not. As a brake caliper clamps brake pads against a spinning disc, a tremendous tangential friction force occurs between the pads and the spinning disc. In other words, the caliper is pulled strongly in the direction of the spinning disc, as represented by the downward pointing arrow on the right side in Figure 1 below.
The caliper resists that force via the spindle hard mounting points, depicted by the upward arrow on the left. The dynamic load placed on the caliper twists or pulls the caliper into a parallelogram shape. The dynamic force exerted on the calipers during a braking event is the key to the magic of the Radi-CAL design philosophy. Brake calipers of the past were designed to some extent in relative isolation from the forces that they were attempting to combat. They were designed to be the stiffest box possible while resting on a table, with much of the caliper mass residing at either end. The Radi-CAL is dramatically different because it was deliberately designed around the braking event forces that will be acting upon it. This is achieved by optimally distributing the body mass of the caliper on a diagonal, rather than at the two caliper ends. As such, the forces dynamically acting on the caliper are supported by the caliper mass, rather than what historically has been an empty box (see Figure 2 below). At the same time, this also allows for a significant reduction in overall mass, because all non-essential, non-load-bearing caliper body material is removed. So in the case of the Radi-CAL, it's not just about the material that is put into the caliper, it's about the material that is taken away!
The concept is along the lines of why an arch bridge is stronger than a beam bridge when all else is held equal. You can watch a vid and read more about it in the link below. It's not just marketing fluff. It's a major step forward in the history of brake caliper design:
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...-radical-story
Forces when a caliper mounted on one side clamps a spinning disc
The shape the forces are distorting the caliper into
Conventional caliper shape vs. dynamic load path
Radi-CAL caliper shape relative to dynamic load path
When im ready to win a championship i still may look into the AP kits, but for now im hoping this gives me what im after.
well $hit, i got everything in the mail for my brake upgrade except the calipers
well i just a message from ebay saying the seller refunded my order. obviously didnt like me stealing them for 15% off on black friday code on a "big" item
well $hit, i got everything in the mail for my brake upgrade except the calipers
well i just a message from ebay saying the seller refunded my order. obviously didnt like me stealing them for 15% off on black friday code on a "big" item
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 12-03-2018 at 03:26 PM.
#115
Premium Supporting Vendor
I have black Willwood Calipers in stock that I can get you some sort of a deal on.
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STANG KILLA SS (12-03-2018)