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Checkout Blackbird Fabworx in Southern California. He did beautiful work, visually and structurallly. Bonded and bolted bulkhead plates.
that appears to be a duplicate cage to the one in the red car/white cage posted earlier.
despite its extra door bar frame mount near the back of door, i dont see that half height main hoop ever passing tech. especially since it doesnt appear to bolt to the frame in any way up that high. appears to just bolt to interior panels and fuel cross over tube tunnel.
that appears to be a duplicate cage to the one in the red car/white cage posted earlier.
despite its extra door bar frame mount near the back of door, i dont see that half height main hoop ever passing tech. especially since it doesnt appear to bolt to the frame in any way up that high. appears to just bolt to interior panels and fuel cross over tube tunnel.
Good catch. Looks like he has done two of them.
I believe the red car was sold to Breathless and competed in Trans Am, so it probably passed tech. Maybe check with them.
interesting. well thanks for that insite, and passing sanctioning body tech is why i started this thread.
i actually talked to a team with a C6Z in TA3 a few months ago at COTA. was telling me all about cage, wish i would have paid more attention. but i do seem to remember him mentioning threw bolting the entire/both sides of the frame. with anti crush tubes for the bolts welded in.
Call Richard Tomlin at Apex Auto Works down in Alvin, He does extensive cage work for everything from Lemons to LeMons.... Also he's on the SCCA board
832-455-4559
they show some aluminum frame cars and also list them as for NASA/SCCA
rear boxes (i cant tell if these have aluminum block behind them like front, description says it does)
i sent them an email, and they were super nice and sent a very detailed explanation of what they do. they got back to me very quickly.
We are pleased to provide pricing for a 6 point roll cage compliant to SCCA,NASA,SVRA, and HSR rules. The roll cage will be constructed out of 1 3/4" x .120 D.O.M (drawn over mandrel) SAE certified 1020 mild steel tubing. We will weld ¾ inch thick aluminum plates to the frame at the A pillar location and the rear frame down bar location. The cage will have a main hoop that is welded on ¼” steel plates bolted to the ¾” welded aluminum plates on main frame of the vehicle, A-pillar bars running from the front door at the frame and welded to the frame same as the main hoop of the vehicle and to the main hoop running along the main roof line, the A-pillar bar will be joined at the windshield with a windshield bar, the A-pillar bars will also have a horizontal bar running underneath the main dash structure of the car connecting the two A-pillar bars. The rear hoop supports will join the main hoop and run down to the frame of the vehicle and be welded to steel plates again bolted to the 3/4" aluminum plates welded on the main frame of the vehicle. 2 arched door bars (per door) attaching to the vertical A-pillar bar and the main hoop extending into the doors will be welded in on the driver and passenger doors. There will be 2 down bars welded to the door bars and the A-pillar bars at the base of the A-pillar joining the A-pillar bar aft of the first bend in the A-pillar bar. These bars are compliant with the current 2016 FIA rules for roll cages.
i sent back an email asking if the 3/4" aluminum blocks were threaded and the bolts just screw straight into them, or do the bolts go all the way threw the blocks, threw both sides of the frame and out the other side. waiting to hear back.
in my opinion the first method could be ok, as it would be spreading the load to the single side of the frame, just as a welded on steel plate would with the same surface area on a steel chassis car. thoughts?
i also do not know if any of there cages have been threw actual NASA/SCCA tech inspection before. i havent asked yet.
but nice to find a method spelled out. but 2nd phase is to find out if they will pass tech.
the rear main hoop, at the back of the floor/cabin is fine/perfect for me. ive already looked. im 5'-9" and shrinking and sit close. i dont need my main hoop to puncture the rear bulkhead as some do.
the rear main hoop, at the back of the floor/cabin is fine/perfect for me. ive already looked. im 5'-9" and shrinking and sit close. i dont need my main hoop to puncture the rear bulkhead as some do.
At 5’9” you’re good to go... that last round of cages look nice.
There are a number of places that build drag cars and say it's no big deal to build a roadrace cage but make sure they insure it will pass tech. One of the best road race preparation shops is Phoenix and they have been building winning cars for years and winning championships year after year. If you want it done right give Joe a call or send him an email. One thing to remember is you might want to sell your car and having more room might make the difference in selling it.
I have been trying to remove the color left and other crap that is in the middle of the text but it only shows up after I select save. It was not there when I wrote it or when I select edit so thank you again Microsoft.
pheonix was one of the first people i contacted. Joe would not give any info on how they build there cages. saying "it is a proprietary design, and people will copy them and try to pass them off as Pheonix cages"
which i understand completely trying to protect your intellectual business property, unfortunately it doesnt help us DYIers or the corvette community at all.
there quote was also nearly double of the other two quotes i received. one of which even included an SCCA inspection before it left the shop.
Phoenix cages have no room... they continue to use their original design from the T1 days when it was mandatory that all the OEM interior be reinstalled (stupid I know) after the cage went it.
12-12-2018, 12:03 PM
