Can the Diff be Removed without the trans and TT?
#21
Melting Slicks
A few more suggestions: replace the trans to diff o-ring and lube before installing the diff onto the trans. If the left side axle seal is leaking, make sure the bearing inside the side cover isn't laying on the shaft. At this point I would also replace the posi plates and Bellville washers inside the center section.
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 3X2
A few more suggestions: replace the trans to diff o-ring and lube before installing the diff onto the trans. If the left side axle seal is leaking, make sure the bearing inside the side cover isn't laying on the shaft. At this point I would also replace the posi plates and Bellville washers inside the center section.
I just spoke to RKT yesterday about the rebuild. We're replacing all the seals and gaskets. Also replacing washers (and I think plates) with c6z components. They said they could turn it around in a day!
#23
Racer
You dont need to remove exhaust before taking diff out. but I do suggest putitng exhaust back in (at least on the back hanger) right before you are raising the cradle to install. BTW, installation of the cradle is harder than removal as the cradle does not sit parallel to car (It is helpful to have someone help you as you guide it up.... I used 3 jacks at the same time).
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
Again, thank you!
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Here's were mines at. I had a hard time getting the mufflers out. More height would help there. For everything else this was high enough.
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just got my rebuilt diff home yesterday. I went to Rick at RTK and he was great. Took a lot of time to explain things to me. He actually disassembled it while I was there to show me the problem and the worn components. Top notch guy and operation, I'm glad I made the trip instead of shipping it.
Now the fun begins, time to put it all back together.....
Now the fun begins, time to put it all back together.....
#29
Team Owner
Saw you have a transmission jack they are a life saver when doing a clutch or diff swap. A friend has this one which we have used several times, not sure if it was from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
Last edited by 93Polo; 12-30-2018 at 11:32 PM.
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Saw you have a transmission jack they are a life saver when doing a clutch or diff swap. A friend has this one which we have used several times, not sure if it was from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
While it works well, Its HUGE. Not sure where its gonna go once the jobs done.......
#31
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 11,092
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1,299 Posts
Saw you have a transmission jack they are a life saver when doing a clutch or diff swap. A friend has this one which we have used several times, not sure if it was from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
https://www.prolinemax.com/450-lb-Ca...14-_p_518.html
You can also support the diff/trans etc with a jack stand or trans jack, drop the rear sub frame separate, then drop the exhaust, and lastly lower the transmission etc.
Happy New Year to all!
Last edited by PRE-Z06; 01-01-2019 at 11:12 AM.
#32
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thought I'd provide an update for anyone who may find this useful in the future.
So I've been re assembling the car after RKT rebuilt the diff. First off, Rick at RKT is fantastic to work with. He disassembled it on the spot when I walked in and showed me the problem. I had a low breakaway torque, 50# or so if I remember right. The belleville washer was not cracked. The cross hatching on the clutch washer looking things was worn and almost not visible in spots. This was rebuilt with C6Z components. The outside was blasted clean and all new seals were installed including output shaft seals.
Putting the diff back on the transmission was pretty easy. I had to guess at 37 ft-lbs on the bottom nut to mount the diff, but all others were accessible. I used 3 floor jacks to install the sub frame. One with the cross member across the back, then 2 more floor jacks under the end of each side of the spring. These made raising the entire part easy to do in slow small steps. The hardest time with the whole thing so far was installing the axles back in. They took some f'ing with to get them back in and seated.
All the suspension is back in, torqued, and marked with white out. A watchout for those who take this on. There are brake line retainers that hold the lines in place. I broke all these taking it apart. Buying new ones at the dealership, I learned they are $9 a pop. I'd say try not to break them while taking it all apart. Oh, and there are 4 of them. You can only see 2, there are 2 inside the subframe under the axles you cannot see.. This can be an issue when lowering the subrfame, which is where I found out they existed.
A second watchout is at the very beginning. When I started to take the mufflers off, I had pushed the mounting bolts up inside the frame rail. This required that I remove the rear bumper and foam to access these and get them back in place. Definitely not part of the plan. Wasn't terrible to remove, but work i wasn't planning on.
I'll post up some pics from my phone here shortly. Looks like I should have everything back together for my first event in March, woot woot!
So I've been re assembling the car after RKT rebuilt the diff. First off, Rick at RKT is fantastic to work with. He disassembled it on the spot when I walked in and showed me the problem. I had a low breakaway torque, 50# or so if I remember right. The belleville washer was not cracked. The cross hatching on the clutch washer looking things was worn and almost not visible in spots. This was rebuilt with C6Z components. The outside was blasted clean and all new seals were installed including output shaft seals.
Putting the diff back on the transmission was pretty easy. I had to guess at 37 ft-lbs on the bottom nut to mount the diff, but all others were accessible. I used 3 floor jacks to install the sub frame. One with the cross member across the back, then 2 more floor jacks under the end of each side of the spring. These made raising the entire part easy to do in slow small steps. The hardest time with the whole thing so far was installing the axles back in. They took some f'ing with to get them back in and seated.
All the suspension is back in, torqued, and marked with white out. A watchout for those who take this on. There are brake line retainers that hold the lines in place. I broke all these taking it apart. Buying new ones at the dealership, I learned they are $9 a pop. I'd say try not to break them while taking it all apart. Oh, and there are 4 of them. You can only see 2, there are 2 inside the subframe under the axles you cannot see.. This can be an issue when lowering the subrfame, which is where I found out they existed.
A second watchout is at the very beginning. When I started to take the mufflers off, I had pushed the mounting bolts up inside the frame rail. This required that I remove the rear bumper and foam to access these and get them back in place. Definitely not part of the plan. Wasn't terrible to remove, but work i wasn't planning on.
I'll post up some pics from my phone here shortly. Looks like I should have everything back together for my first event in March, woot woot!
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DK83 (01-27-2019)
#34
Drifting
So you went with C6Z plates, discs, and springs? Any other changes? I'm sure mine is down to even less than 50 ft lbs. I'll be yanking it this summer after I'm done with spring events.
#35
Burning Brakes
I have zero torque on my rear diff, but swear I still have a limited slip under power... is it possible to have a 1-way diff when internals are worn?
2+ years ago I had 100-ish ft lbs, so definitely has changed, but haven’t really noticed on track... maybe I’m too slow. Think I’d notice on power, but my corner entry ***** have grown over these 2yrs so may not notice a change when braking.
2+ years ago I had 100-ish ft lbs, so definitely has changed, but haven’t really noticed on track... maybe I’m too slow. Think I’d notice on power, but my corner entry ***** have grown over these 2yrs so may not notice a change when braking.
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
Nope, thats it. I realize i forgot to take pics of the worn discs. I'll try to get them posted up tonight since i have a work trip the rest of the week.
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Miguel S (02-04-2019)