lightweight racing batterys
#22
mine lasted about 5 years starting a supercharged LS2 and I have another about 4 years on a 12:1 LS7. They start like champs
#23
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Presently (until I find a lighter battery that makes $/# sense) I'm using a 16# 300 CCA/360 CA $29.95 lawn tractor battery that I get at my local Farm and Fleet store in my '69. With the C4 PMGR starter on the engine it cranks over just fine. I usually run it for about three or four years, depending on when the battery in my lawn tractor dies, and then I put the Corvette battery in the tractor and put a new one in the vette.
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smitty2919 (01-14-2019)
#24
Melting Slicks
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Presently (until I find a lighter battery that makes $/# sense) I'm using a 16# 300 CCA/360 CA $29.95 lawn tractor battery that I get at my local Farm and Fleet store in my '69. With the C4 PMGR starter on the engine it cranks over just fine. I usually run it for about three or four years, depending on when the battery in my lawn tractor dies, and then I put the Corvette battery in the tractor and put a new one in the vette.
Awesome idea!
Seems like they only last a year in my lawn tractor anyway.
#25
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...60cw/overview/
3.5lbs. I use it in my c5. Won’t start the car when it’s in the 30’s but I just use my pocket jumper and the car starts. They have a larger version as well that is probably still pretty light.
3.5lbs. I use it in my c5. Won’t start the car when it’s in the 30’s but I just use my pocket jumper and the car starts. They have a larger version as well that is probably still pretty light.
The website's description of the battery's electrical requirement/limitations are rather slim, so I think I'll try to contact BT to see if they'll offer up a few more details.
Thanks.
#26
Racer
another alternative
I have run this for years with only one problem where I left the door cracked in the garage for days and it drained. In fact I was able to recharge from a total drain and still working today. Never any issues at the track. Have left unhooked from battery tender for weeks before by mistake and still keeps going. Around 4.9 Lbs.
LFX36L3-BS12MSRP: $329.95
SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery, 36Ah PbEq 12V eq, "L" polarity, Case Type 3 Length 6.55" Width 3.39" Height 6.10" Shorai Batteries require a charging system output of 13.1 Volts or higher at idle, and must not exceed 15.2 volts at maximum output.
LFX36L3-BS12MSRP: $329.95
SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery, 36Ah PbEq 12V eq, "L" polarity, Case Type 3 Length 6.55" Width 3.39" Height 6.10" Shorai Batteries require a charging system output of 13.1 Volts or higher at idle, and must not exceed 15.2 volts at maximum output.
#27
Racer
I've been using the Deltran 480 amp version that weighs something like 4.4 lbs for nearly 3 years on my C5 and cannot believe that this $225-ish battery is still working. I keep it on a lithium battery maintainer when the vehicle is stored and always take a "real" battery with me to the track as a backup because I still can't believe this tiny battery starts and runs the car with no issue.
The newest version has automatic shut off from over and under charging according to their website which is a very important safety feature IMO when dealing with lithiums.
Slightly lighter than mine at 4.9 lbs., may need to check into this one when it is time to replace. Never had a start issue on mine unless I made a mistake, any need to use that "real" battery at the track?
The newest version has automatic shut off from over and under charging according to their website which is a very important safety feature IMO when dealing with lithiums.
Slightly lighter than mine at 4.9 lbs., may need to check into this one when it is time to replace. Never had a start issue on mine unless I made a mistake, any need to use that "real" battery at the track?
Last edited by C6psi; 01-16-2019 at 09:48 PM.
#28
Drifting
I have not gotten that far with the C5 yet, but I have used numerous light weight batteries in other track cars. When the 21 lbs Braille battery #B3121 died in the last track car, I replaced it with the slightly heavier 25 lbs Yuasa AGM 500 CCA 32Ah #GYZ32HL battery and I was very happy.
https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/gyz32hl/
https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/gyz32hl/
#29
Instructor
I have had the antigravity atx 20 for a few weeks now, so far it's been great, turns over my ls3 in my c4 with no problems
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079VWGY2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_V0bqCbFTJN341
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079VWGY2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_V0bqCbFTJN341
Last edited by TurbineSurgine; 01-17-2019 at 01:18 AM.
#30
I've been using the Deltran 480 amp version that weighs something like 4.4 lbs for nearly 3 years on my C5 and cannot believe that this $225-ish battery is still working. I keep it on a lithium battery maintainer when the vehicle is stored and always take a "real" battery with me to the track as a backup because I still can't believe this tiny battery starts and runs the car with no issue.
The newest version has automatic shut off from over and under charging according to their website which is a very important safety feature IMO when dealing with lithiums.
Slightly lighter than mine at 4.9 lbs., may need to check into this one when it is time to replace. Never had a start issue on mine unless I made a mistake, any need to use that "real" battery at the track?
The newest version has automatic shut off from over and under charging according to their website which is a very important safety feature IMO when dealing with lithiums.
Slightly lighter than mine at 4.9 lbs., may need to check into this one when it is time to replace. Never had a start issue on mine unless I made a mistake, any need to use that "real" battery at the track?
I've not had to use the "real" battery at the track or anywhere else except when I took the car to Abel Chevrolet for some upgrades and I knew it would be there over a long Thanksgiving holiday. On track, that little Battery Tender unit has never missed a beat. Here is the newest version with safety kill switches built in:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtn-btl24a480cw
I bought some brass drop down side post connections that let me connect to the stock battery cables in minutes. They just bolt to the top of the lithium battery and turn it into a side post. Tomorrow I'll look up the part number when I get to work....I should have it in the cars maintenance file.
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RapidC84B (01-17-2019)
#32
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I went on the Deltran/Battery Tender website to look for a bit more detail on the charging requirements/limits of their batteries. Didn't see much info, so I left a couple questions in their techline section. So far I haven't gotten the courtesy of a reply from them.
#33
Drifting
I tracked the car all day on Saturday and the car's been sitting in the trailer every since. This evening I just remembered that I had left the Battery Tender lithium battery on the car but not connected to the battery maintainer......I checked the voltage before re-connecting and it was at 13.1 Volts. The car was left in the trailer unlocked and without the alarm on. I'm guessing leaving the alarm on probably would cause a bigger drain. So it sat for 4 complete days and the voltage is still good enough to start the car, pretty impressive.
I've not had to use the "real" battery at the track or anywhere else except when I took the car to Abel Chevrolet for some upgrades and I knew it would be there over a long Thanksgiving holiday. On track, that little Battery Tender unit has never missed a beat. Here is the newest version with safety kill switches built in:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtn-btl24a480cw
I bought some brass drop down side post connections that let me connect to the stock battery cables in minutes. They just bolt to the top of the lithium battery and turn it into a side post. Tomorrow I'll look up the part number when I get to work....I should have it in the cars maintenance file.
I've not had to use the "real" battery at the track or anywhere else except when I took the car to Abel Chevrolet for some upgrades and I knew it would be there over a long Thanksgiving holiday. On track, that little Battery Tender unit has never missed a beat. Here is the newest version with safety kill switches built in:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtn-btl24a480cw
I bought some brass drop down side post connections that let me connect to the stock battery cables in minutes. They just bolt to the top of the lithium battery and turn it into a side post. Tomorrow I'll look up the part number when I get to work....I should have it in the cars maintenance file.
Last edited by JHrinsin; 03-01-2019 at 09:18 AM.
#34
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That is a great price for a lithium light weight battery. My only concern would be if you are running the factory stock alternator and electrical system, or if you have stripped the car, have a very simplified electrical system and load as well as a reduced output alternator. A lot of these smaller batteries have a maximum allowable alternator that they can be run with, although not all of them list that in their specifications.
#35
Race Director
I switched to a lithium last year when my AGM wore out. It was a bit pricy! I'm using the battery tender 360 cca and it's been fine on the stock charging circuit in my 1988. It's funny when you pick up the battery as it weighs nothing. It's like they forgot to put anything inside the case! Amazon link if it's okay:
#36
That is a great price for a lithium light weight battery. My only concern would be if you are running the factory stock alternator and electrical system, or if you have stripped the car, have a very simplified electrical system and load as well as a reduced output alternator. A lot of these smaller batteries have a maximum allowable alternator that they can be run with, although not all of them list that in their specifications.
I never let the lithium run low as I always keep it on a lithium battery tender.....that way the alternator is not trying to pump a bunch of amps into it trying to recharge it from a deep discharge state. The alternators regulator keeps the amp charge pretty low since the lithium is always near full. The better lithiums have circuitry built into them to physically shut off the charging circuit if the incoming amp charge is too high. They will also disconnect from your vehicle if the parasitic drain is too much which can drain a lithium below its safe voltage level. Think of it as a mechanical disconnect switch that is built into the inside of the top of the battery.
I bought mine off Amazon....you can always buy it and try it. If you don't like it, send it back.
#37
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I switched to a lithium last year when my AGM wore out. It was a bit pricy! I'm using the battery tender 360 cca and it's been fine on the stock charging circuit in my 1988. It's funny when you pick up the battery as it weighs nothing. It's like they forgot to put anything inside the case! Amazon link if it's okay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shopping around, it looks like the Deltran lithium batteries are starting to get a bit more "reasonably" priced. I've got a bit more mass to crank over in my engine, so I'm leaning towards the 480CCA model just for a bit of additional capacity. I never did hear back from Deltran regarding some technical questions, but so far there seems to be a few members in this thread that have had good luck with these batteries, so that might have to be the info I take into consideration.
#38
Race Director
Mine is still working fine. When the engine was brand new and tight the 360 was a bit low to crank it. That's the only time I've noticed it struggle. I got the battery tender lithium iron charger/tender for xmas so that is on it most of the time.
#39
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Just checking back in to see if there's any additional inputs or updates on battery options.
I had a several post exchange with a forum sponsor inquiring about their batteries, and usage cranking over a big block, but my conclusion was that he was only comfortable recommending one of his larger batteries for my application. The larger battery was obviously heavier and much more expensive, which made the dollars-per-pound-removed from the car a cost/benefit ratio I couldn't justify for a street/trackday car.
I had a several post exchange with a forum sponsor inquiring about their batteries, and usage cranking over a big block, but my conclusion was that he was only comfortable recommending one of his larger batteries for my application. The larger battery was obviously heavier and much more expensive, which made the dollars-per-pound-removed from the car a cost/benefit ratio I couldn't justify for a street/trackday car.
#40
Race Director
Mine's still crankin'!