lobsterroboto

cool did you update the rest of the laps? I didn't see quite a few of my laps on the page yet.

Chets LS3

Only inputting fast laps today!

KnightDriveTV

I've long updated everything there, over two months ago, shy of one or two since the update...I don't see your laps beyond that point.

Edit: I see you posted some times with no vids or data afterwards. I'll get them in there but prefer some verification method.

lobsterroboto

transponder timed, I linked the laps from racehero.io

rico750sxi

What about installing a cheap disconnect switch until the issue can be resolved? You’d have to leave the hatch unlatched but at least it would prevent the battery from dying.

Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch

lobsterroboto

Since it’s caged he really needs a cockpit accessible kill switch but battery drain is a thing on our cars as soon as we break circuits like the power windows and what not.

rico750sxi

I see what you’re saying, I was just suggesting it as a stop gap so he could still attend track days and keep the battery alive.

Poor-sha

So you've had this issue as well? Any workarounds? I pulled a bunch of fuses tonight for things that were removed but I have no idea if it will help. At least for the next couple weeks I'm going to have to just unhook the battery when I get off track and a kill switch would make that easier. I did order a parasitic drain cable to try and troubleshoot this next week.

lobsterroboto

Yep same issue, I’ve pulled all sorts of fuses. Battery tender with the switch on doesn’t matter the battery will just drain faster than the tender can supply a charge.


I keep it on a battery tender with the switch off at home and on a track weekend I’ll keep the switch on all day and turn it off after the track goes cold.

If I figure it out I’ll let you know tho. I haven’t been in a hurry tho because I just use the switch.

eta: also once you get a killswitch or start disconnecting the battery you’ll run into an issue with the “rear axle” ignore this... turn the car off and turn it back on and it’ll be fine.

Poor-sha

Super helpful, thanks. Do you have any idea what is staying powered up?

lobsterroboto

My theory is onstar. I need to pull the onstar fuse in the rear I think it is. 42 if i remember right. I’m super lazy and so have to take my wing off to open my hatch unless i open my garage door

Poor-sha

I pulled that one today along with a bunch of others so we'll see. I probably won't test until I get through the track day Monday though. I should've made a list of everything I pulled the fuse with but it was everything I removed and several were 30a fuses. Power seats, windows, onstar, seat heater, glove box door, washer pump.

lobsterroboto

How difficult was was it to remove your washer stuff? And how much did it end up saving you weight wise?

Mordeth

I don't know the solution to the battery drain, other than every Vette I have ever owned suffers from it and I hate chasing electrical gremlins. And the more crap I rip out the more it seems to randomly drain. Probably doesn't help that my battery gets lighter and smaller every chance I get. Do you have anything else plugged into the car? In the OBDII port? For my caged C6Z I have the following:

1) Kill switch wired to alternator for safety reasons and solenoid to kill all juice to battery during rest. One switch does it all.
2) Hand held jump starter to get car started if I stupidly forget to hit kill switch when car is sitting

Battery has only one job in a race car, and that is to start the car. Racers don't care about reserve capacity. Only pulse hot cranking amps during starting delivered with the least amount of weight (means very little reserve capacity).

I'd install a kill switch to the alternator and a solenoid. I have no interest in chasing random drains on a battery with the car shut off. Shut car off, flip switch. Done. Flip switch before start, starts every time. Never an issue.

0bbbvettes.com

Was your roll cage a 1 off Sean, or does that company now have the ability to replicate the identical cage, and have them for sale?

Katech Jason, I like the carbon thin roof, well done. This is the first roll bar in a c7 I am impressed by.

Poor-sha

Washer stuff was pretty easy, I did it while I was installing the DSC controller. You need to unscrew the rear half and the bottom section of the front left wheel liner and just drop it out from the bottom. Honestly, most of the weight savings was just the fluid though.

Yeah, that's on the list now but it's also one more thing to remember to do. Also, it means the fan won't run when you come off track unless you leave the battery hooked up for a while.

It was the first C7 they'd done but they have done a lot of other cages including being one of the first to properly cage the aluminum frame C6Z. They know how to do it now although I get the impression it wasn't their favorite job. I know Katech also does cages for the C7 and Jason was a big help with some pictures of theirs and the roof skin. I wanted someone local though so it was easier to run over for test fitting in the car.

0bbbvettes.com

Sean, do you have any photos of under the driver's dash IF the cage has a bar that goes across under as it does on the passenger side glove box area?

All in all, what did the cage weigh?

Also guys, be careful with the onstar fuse pull... I forget the technicalities, but the car has 2 important modules that need to communicate back and forth, and the onstar module is between those 2.

I have ran my car with the fuse pulled with no issue, but you guys are pushing the limits further than I am, so you might want to double check how all of that works just to be sure.

Also, I have heard some parts of the onstar system have a backup fuse somewhere. I never pulled it, instead, I pulled the antenna chip. The reason I wanted onstar disabled is different than the reason you guys are going for, so you may need to locate that second fuse. I heard this from a reliable source, but never dug into it, so I am not positive on the backup fuse's existence or how it works. Keep in mind, if there is a backup fuse, it may have importance on keeping the connection between the 3 modules happy.

Poor-sha

Yes, the bar goes all the way across but as I recall it has some bends in it. I don't have any pics though and it's now covered by the padded piece that protects your knees. Overall it probably weighed about 150 lbs. The car gained 80 lbs but we also removed the door panels, windoes, regulators, and center console.

I think I found the issue with the electrical drain. I pulled the following fuses and the battery is holding steady.

Front

F14 - Heat seat
F21 - glove box door
F31 - heat seat r_c
F86 - washer pump

Rear

1 - Window
2 -Drvr power seat
12 - Pass power seat
27 - onstar
36 - pass window sw

Finally, a good time at VIR yesterday with Racing for ALS. There's still more time in the car but I managed multiple laps in the high 2:00 range. The car will definitely break 2 min if the driver can get his act together. Here's a vid of the last session of the day.

You Tube

Newton06

Nice driving as usual Sean.I was instructing w/BMW just before you guys came in.I noticed you are now entering T10 mid-track. ARe you not bringing the car track right on purpose, or is the exit speed from T9 preventing you from doing so.It seems to not be affecting your exit, but it gives me the heebie-jeebies if I don't enter track right.

Poor-sha

I'm trying to carry more speed through 9 and that it pushing the car left. If I don't fight the car back over to the right I also can slow less for 10. It took me until the last session to realize I was carrying enough speed that it didn't make sense to downshift for 10.