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Wow I've really been slacking on updating this thread. Look for a more comprehensive update tomorrow but these works of art showed up 2 1/2 weeks ago and every free moment has been out in the garage getting the car back together. The control arms with the sphericals were super easy to install but I was snakebit but a bunch of other small issues getting everything else back together.
Sean once you drive it a bit let me know what you think about the AMT bushings on the street. I put stainless bushings in my c3 many years ago and actually liked it better because it seemed smoother with no binding rubber.
So I finally have the car back together and driveable so its time for a long overdue update.
I decided to take advantage of everything being apart to do a couple other mods. You can't pull the parking brakes all together because the backing plate actually sits between the spindle and the hub assembly. However, I did trim all the excess backing plate material that might reflect heat at the rotors and removed the shoes, springs, and adjuster. Those components and the trimmed backing plate saved about 2.3 lbs of unsprung weight on each rear wheel. The actual electronic parking brake module is a beast at 7 lbs and removing that, along with lines, and the aforementioned unsprung components pulled about 15 lbs off the car. I could probably shave another 2-5 lbs if someone made a spacer to replace the backing plate and rotor hats without a drum but so far that doesn't exist (vendors hint hint...). I was a little worried about what effect pulling the parking brake might have but as it turns out you just get a light on the dash that shows the universal parking brake symbol and a wrench but no warning message or chime. Since I had the rear hubs out I also completed installing the ARP studs in the rear.
In addition to the AMT Motorpsort control arms with spherical bushings, I installed FE7 springs, Tractive RTx dampers with remote reservoir, and the Weapon-X rear toe links with the AMT blocks to remove the rear toe eccentric. The Weapon-X toe links were a good bit heavier than stock (2 lbs vs 1.3 lbs) but the surface on them made them much easier to adjust. I'm not super excited about the nut and cotter pin attachment without a washer on the spindle side of the mount but they seem to be working fine.
Here's a shot of the front FE7 and FE6 springs side by side. You'll notice that the adjuster feet are taller on the FE7 springs and the curve and thickness is different as well. This will come in to play later on ride height. I was surprised and how much the actual rubber mounting blocks compressed when you install the springs and I seriously thought for a minute that the brackets much be different for FE7 but they are the same and the rubber compresses.
The install was going really well and I have everything loosely bolted together very quickly. However, my first snag came installing the AP Racing Radi-Cal brake kit. Now I've installed this same kit on my 2015 Z06, 2017 Z07, 2019 ZR1, and returned the first two cars back to stock brakes before I sold them so I've had the brakes on and off a C7 six times now. However, I was tired and got in a rush and ended up cross-threading the hard line on the right rear wheel when installing the Spiegler stainless steel line. Fortunately, that line connects to another line over by the LR wheel and I was able to just replace the entire line. As a backup plan, I tool the buggered line up to TPC Racing and they were able to fix up the threads with a thread file. Double win!
Oh and any issues installing the springs and getting the brackets lined up on the rubber pads? If I recall GM has a special spring compressor to flatten the spring for install?
Getting everything tightened back up took a bit of trial and error to find the right order so you could still get a torque wrench in.
Up front, I removed the heat shields from the spindle to aid in rotor cooling but decided to use firesleeve and a layer of aluminum foil tape to protect the steering and LCA rubber boots.
Oh and any issues installing the springs and getting the brackets lined up on the rubber pads? If I recall GM has a special spring compressor to flatten the spring for install?
I actually bought the GM spring compressor tool on eBay. Worst part about that tool is that the tool itself is kind of heavy and awkward to get in to place by yourself.
Originally Posted by Tool Hoarder
Pics of modified parking brake drum? Had no issue removing it on the C5.
No rear UCA studs and camber block kit?
Why Weapon - X toe rods vs Granatelli that AMT sells? I have the Granatelli ones in the garage awaiting install.
I bet you can make a resistor to plug in the parking brake plug and make the MIL ago away if ever desired.
I didn't modify the brake drum, I just trimmed the backing plate like Essex says to do in their install instructions. I didn't do the UCA studs and camber kit on this car because it's just much easier to set the alignment with the eccentrics and I've not had them slip if you really tighten them down. Mike Levitas at TPC/DSC didn't like the fact that the Granatelli toe links actually change the pickup point between the toe link and the spindle. I consulted with him on options before picking the Weapon-X.
The warning light actually isn't that bad, especially considering it's a track only car. Here's a pic.
I need to snap some pictures but figuring out where to mount the remote shock canisters was a bit of a trick. I tucked the rear canisters inside the rear of the rear fender liners and secured with zip ties. The front right is behind the wheel liner and above the oil lines going to the dry sump. The left front is below the wheel liner.
While I had the LF wheel liner out to look for mounting options I decided to remove the wash fluid reservoir and pump. The tank/pump was 3 pounds and the fluid in it was about 12 pounds. I do get a "low washer fluid" warning now when I start the car.
Tomorrow I'll talk about setting up the car but for now here are a couple finished corner shots.
Can you elaborate on how the Granatelli link is different? Appears one uses a tapered stud with a rod end and the other uses a sealed end. Both appear to have the link itself spaced similar distances from the spindle. Not saying you're wrong, but I had no idea there was anyone else making links other than Granatelli until just now.
Man those brakes and shocks look awesome. Many folks drill holes in the tub and mount reservoirs in the rear hatch area. Front go on inner fenders under hood or parallel to top of radiator. Lots of options. Are there adjusters on the reservoirs to where you need access or charge valves?
FE7 front and rear. The Weapon-X toe links pictured above do have a different main rod appearance than the new ones. I'm not as smart as Mike but I believe the issue is that the Granatelli links move the place where the rod connects to the end link closer to the spindle. There was a definite difference in the toe curve when we measured it on my Z07 with the Granatelli links.
Man those brakes and shocks look awesome. Many folks drill holes in the tub and mount reservoirs in the rear hatch area. Front go on inner fenders under hood or parallel to top of radiator. Lots of options. Are there adjusters on the reservoirs to where you need access or charge valves?
Thanks! The Motons on my C6Z were mounted as you describe but as I recall you can to run the lines, mount the canisters, then charge the shocks to get them inside the car. This is how we mounted the RTx shocks on my 2015 Z06 without issue. Since it's electronic you don't need to adjust anything on the shock itself, just plug the laptop in to the controller.
One more quick update tonight. I decided to remove the small rubber deflectors that hang in front of the front tires. Based on the "Ask Tadge" response regarding the ZR1 aero these appear to reduce front downforce. Then I installed the jogsaw puzzle that is the Z07 "track only" brake ducts.
Sean ive been out of the loop for a while dealing with a new company my son started. I was shocked to read here your ZR1 was wrecked but more importantly seems your fine and in great spirits jumping back on the horse. Great idea building a GS track car. I read you may come up to visit Watkins Glen, if so please send me a PM a few weeks ahead I will try to make it. We run Trackmasters, bring Bill with ya. I am also interested as others are on the AMT control arm feel on the street if anyone can understand the diff you surly can!
What happen with the ZRI is there a link about it?
02-04-2019, 08:00 AM
Glad to see you're back in the saddle.
