Brainhulk

I came from a s2000 and miss the sharp handling. I feel as if the g6 understeers and takes a split second longer to respond to inputs and to settle. Is it a simple mod like a track alignment and the t1 sway bars? I am still on the og goodyear f1's.

Otherwise I am highly satisfied with everything esle. All i do is bleed the brakes and change the oil and i am good to go at the track (i had an oil cooler and trans cooler installed). The car is easy to control when the rear steps out. And the powwwaaa. Yeah, just the soft handling is nagging me a bit.

Thanks for the help!

crimlwC6

Sway bars will prevent body roll and therefore make the car feel quicker in response. Track/aggressive street alignment will improve the handling, if your camber/toe/caster is off a good bit now then it will sharpen up the feeling to get a proper alignment and even if it doesn't it is certainly worthwhile. I'd leave it alone after that...it gets expensive

Gordy M

After making the above adjustments, and it still persists, you might be experiencing the built in lag of the DBW to the TB. It is more noticeable if you are an autocrosser but can be felt at the track.

Kubs

Those OG Goodyears are not doing you any favors either. Tires and alignment are the best bang for the buck.

RapidC84B

Alignment, bars, and tires. The new Michelin street tires are leaps and bounds better than a GY. The OEM alignments are a joke they don't even get them in the OEM ranges... they get them "sort of maybe close". I had an old street C5 that was aligned with like +3 caster up front... felt like crap. Caster needs to be +6 or more front.

village idiot

Yes, the C6 definitely understeers. It's gonig to understeer, especially more than you S2000. Your S2000 is going to be more nimble. That's just the nature of the cars. They're smaller lighter cars. My BRZ is 100x more nimble than my C7. Nature of the beasts. I haven't driven an S2000 on the track, but your analysis seems to spot on from what I've heard. They are nimble but they can be scary stepping out.

Alignment should help a lot- get the camber and toe set up for the track. Especially on a car with a lot of mechanical grip, alignment is super important.

AND0

Also, control arm bushings in C5/C6 are embarrassingly soft. Change to delrin to really sharpen up handling along with the usual suspects; Tires, shocks, springs, sway bars

anth115

I agree with the gents above. To summarize:
- Ditch the tires - go to PSS/PS4S or NT01/R888R. Anytime the car is moving, tires are almost always the biggest factor.
- Align the car correctly for your use. Either research here or discuss with someone reputable with track experience. To decrease understeer, you want more negative camber and no front toe in (neutral is good, very slight toe out is best for more advanced drivers that understand the implications).
- Bushings are soft and we don't know your car's mileage. When these flex it can change your dynamic camber away from how you set it while the car was stationary.

Lastly, note that the 'being easy to control when the back steps out' is, in part (ignoring wheelbase, etc.), a byproduct of the car's handling being progressive (slow) enough for you to realize what's going on and correct it before it gets out of hand. As you try to make the car more agile or quicker to react, those transitions become less progressive and more abrupt, so it can definitely be too much of a good thing here.
Hope this helps!

StreetSpeed

Monoball bushings really wake the car up in the input and feedback departments. It takes some time for the ssquishy rubber bushings to compress, and that dulls everything and makes it all feel slower to react. From your description I think monoballs would be the biggest improvement for you. Downsides are the cost and the fact that they can be harsh on bad roads, so that may remove the “casual” from the equation. Let me know if you have any questions about solid bushings.

https://amtmotorsport.com/products/c...l-arm-bushings

Gray Ghost GS

I've been going through the same planning process for my '13 C6 Grand Sport after tracking a '04 C5 for several years. Here's my thread:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-hpde.html

strano@stranoparts.com

Big front bar (we make a solid 35mm twp position adjustable one), the rear bar, stock, is already almost 29mm, no need to waste money there. A good set of shocks, a good set of tires. A good set of pads, Align it, and go. You can add other parts, certainly, but that list is very effective. And I can help with all of it except physically aligning the car unless you are near my shop in Western PA.

T1 bars are too large IMHO, just not necessary. And while bars control roll and balance, too much bar costs grip. And bars can't control roll and pitch rates, that's what shocks do. And shocks you can adjust the rebound damping of allow you to get the car to react faster, and take a set quicker. In the last week or two I have had 3 folks call to upgrade their non-adjustable shocks because they aren't crisp enough.

Brainhulk

I was worried about losing grip also with too much bar. On my old evo, the inside wheel sometimes came off the ground because of upgraded bars. I saw on your website that you guys sell stiffer leaf springs. Do you recommend a particular shock that are matched well to these springs?

Gray Ghost GS

Great advice. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=30&ModelID=12 I just added this to my list for my '13 C6 GS. Thanks!