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My setup:
F: 18x10.5 +56 (12MM spacer so +44) did not rub with 295/35-18 Nitto NT05's when I tested it on the street. Gonna throw some 315 Rivals on in the spring (I know some of you are going on Spring break soon, but it's still in the negative ambient + snowing where I'm at) 25.75" front ride height
R: 18x12 +59, 335/30-18 Rivals, no rub at all. 27" rear ride height? Still in work due to coilover install but there's to much ice out.
Rear: +59 is stock. Even a 345x19 MPSS does not rub. A 335x30x18 is definitely not going to rub. And its 25.9 tall not 27. There is room to move the rears out some where between 59 and 50. Thats my question because I'm getting differing opinions.
Front: +40 is stock. Not sure about your front but you have a 10.5 and I want a 10 inch wheel. I'm being advised somewhere between 30 and 40.
Thanks all for your replies. I am definitely not worried about rings any longer.
Sorry I got Bob to regurgitate again
Are any of you guys running 18x12 and 18x10 wheels. I would appreciate knowing your offsets. There seems to be a lack of consensus out there as to what is best. I don't want outside fender rubbing with 335 rears and 295 fronts. And I want to keep the basic OEM geometry......in other words I want the same front to rear stager (front narrower than rear)
Thanks
DH
Your post is a legit question, not regurgitate. Regurgitate are the guys who post "I KNOW" the Vettes are hub centric and never actually touched a hub or used a spacer or turned a lug nut themselves. "Some guy" told them.
I run 18x12" +48 with 335 Rival S tires front and rear with no rubbing issues, other than on the inboard wheel well from turning. I've considered going down to a +45 with my next set, but I do have a bit of camber in my car (-3*F/-1.8*R) which does affect how much they will rub.
Also 295 on a 10" wide wheel might be a bit pinched. I would run that on a 10.5 or an 11, personally.
I run 18x12" +48 with 335 Rival S tires front and rear with no rubbing issues, other than on the inboard wheel well from turning. I've considered going down to a +45 with my next set, but I do have a bit of camber in my car (-3*F/-1.8*R) which does affect how much they will rub.
Also 295 on a 10" wide wheel might be a bit pinched. I would run that on a 10.5 or an 11, personally.
Great info !!
That answers my question on the rear. A 50 offset should give even more clearance. Are you on stock suspension? Lowered on stock bolts?
Not sure how to evaluate the fronts with that 335 I assume on an 11 inch wheel and twice the camber I run.
Not sure if the F14 is available in 10.5 Some have said the same about slight pinching. Others have said they are fine and used successfully. They are recommended for 10-11 inch.
That answers my question on the rear. A 50 offset should give even more clearance. Are you on stock suspension? Lowered on stock bolts?
Not sure how to evaluate the fronts with that 335 I assume on an 11 inch wheel and twice the camber I run.
Not sure if the F14 is available in 10.5 Some have said the same about slight pinching. Others have said they are fine and used successfully. They are recommended for 10-11 inch.
Thanks
DH
Yep, a 50 offset should work perfect and give you a tad more clearance. I ran these wheels and tires on both stock suspension, and now on coilovers. I believe it was on lowering bolts, but not wound all the way down. It was maybe a half inch or so lower than stock in the rear, but close to an inch lower than everyone else in the front.
I measured for wheels before I added camber as well, and was getting around a +53-56 offset for them with little to no camber. So I would guess, based on those measurements, you would be good with a +40 offset in the front on an 11, or a +27 on a 10. And it should be fairly conservative with 1.5* of camber like you said, although with a pinched tire on a 10, you may want to come in slightly more, like a +30 or so.
You are correct. I don't believe Forgestars are offered in 0.5" increments, so you would have to go with a 10 or 11. I personally would go with the 11", if the plan is a 295.
In my mind, you always want a tight fit between the wheel center bore and hub, regardless if your wheels have countersunk lug nut holes or not. In addition to providing the best concentricity and reducing possibility of vibration, a tight fit between wheel and hub will transfer shear load through the hub rather than introducing bending in the studs. The countersink in the wheels does provide shear capability, however I don't think of this as the primary load bearing feature, especially when running flat slip-on spacers or if the wheel hub faying surface is very thick.
Just because you or someone gets away without running hubcentric rings on the street, autox, hpde, or race doesn't prove anything to me. The only thing that proves is that the wheels didn't encounter a loading event that maxed out the shear and bending capability of the studs.
Just because you or someone gets away without running hubcentric rings on the street, autox, hpde, or race doesn't prove anything to me. The only thing that proves is that the wheels didn't encounter a loading event that maxed out the shear and bending capability of the studs.
Certainly it doesn't hurt to have a properly cut hub centric hole in the center of the wheel, but I will defend to the end the ability of these wheels to be run without a properly sized center hole.
Why do I say that? It comes from seven years of racing on these wheels and damaging or breaking several of them. In no cases have I had a failure of the studs to hold the wheel. All my failures have come from:
General wheel fatigue. They fail at the spokes. Multiple wheel brands I have broken this way I can usually trace back to an incident of going on track without the wheels evenly torqued to proper values.
Car to car contact causing the lip of the wheel bead area curling back.
Or failure due to crashes. They break at the spokes and/or curly the lips of the rim.
I recently saw one of my Spec Corvette buddies break a wheel in car-to-car contact that also damaged his suspension. That wheel got broken spokes when if got tangled up in the wheel and body of the other car.
Your mileage may vary, but I use SKF race hubs with very strong/thicker flanges than OEM and ARP long wheel studs. I think the ARPs are chrome moly. I also use the long aluminum lug nuts. It is OK, call me a heretic, but I am perhaps the most prolific Corvette racer on this forum. I expect to do more than 30 race days this year, plus whatever track days and test & tunes I do. Those races range from Spec Corvette to Trans AM SGT in two cars that run exclusively in Forgestar F14s. I submit the results of dozens of other racers I know personally to never have had a stud failure nor do they have wheel balance issues on track.
Certainly it doesn't hurt to have a properly cut hub centric hole in the center of the wheel, but I will defend to the end the ability of these wheels to be run without a properly sized center hole.
Why do I say that? It comes from seven years of racing on these wheels and damaging or breaking several of them. In no cases have I had a failure of the studs to hold the wheel. All my failures have come from:
General wheel fatigue. They fail at the spokes. Multiple wheel brands I have broken this way I can usually trace back to an incident of going on track without the wheels evenly torqued to proper values.
Car to car contact causing the lip of the wheel bead area curling back.
Or failure due to crashes. They break at the spokes and/or curly the lips of the rim.
I recently saw one of my Spec Corvette buddies break a wheel in car-to-car contact that also damaged his suspension. That wheel got broken spokes when if got tangled up in the wheel and body of the other car.
Your mileage may vary, but I use SKF race hubs with very strong/thicker flanges than OEM and ARP long wheel studs. I think the ARPs are chrome moly. I also use the long aluminum lug nuts. It is OK, call me a heretic, but I am perhaps the most prolific Corvette racer on this forum. I expect to do more than 30 race days this year, plus whatever track days and test & tunes I do. Those races range from Spec Corvette to Trans AM SGT in two cars that run exclusively in Forgestar F14s. I submit the results of dozens of other racers I know personally to never have had a stud failure nor do they have wheel balance issues on track.
What offset do you have cut on the rears for 13x18 on a c6z (or gs)?
Please look at the rear upper control arms, the trailing part you can see with a flashlight from rear bumper area. Any rub marks?
THX
The only time they make contact which is just touching is when the car is jacked up. I have a set of CCW's which have more backspacing which hit even more when jacked up. This is a non issue when auto crossing and road racing. I have been using them for 3 years this way. I also have Delrin bushings and run between -1.2 to -1.8 camber back there.
The only time they make contact which is just touching is when the car is jacked up. I have a set of CCW's which have more backspacing which hit even more when jacked up. This is a non issue when auto crossing and road racing. I have been using them for 3 years this way. I also have Delrin bushings and run between -1.2 to -1.8 camber back there.
Thanks, on mine they wore a small groove on rr. I do NOT recommend the 56 offset for anyone.
From the vendor... "Yes the box ready stuff are hub centric to the Corvette. Custom order colors are NOT hub centric to the Corvette." Box ready I take as Gloss Black, Satin Black, and Gloss Anthracite...
So it seems that the Forgestars are not hub centric.
Do any of you guys have a problem with the rings?
I will be swapping track and street setups twice a month.
Do the rings hold up.
Anyone have any problems with the wheels or wish they had not got the Forgestars because of this?
Thanks
DH
love the wheels. Hate the rings. They come out easily when swapping wheels. I accidentally got them doubled up when rotated wheels for track. Double rings equates to lugs coming loose and nearly lost a wheel on first lap. Better off just not using the rings. Don’t think it matters. The studs like the wheels up.
love the wheels. Hate the rings. They come out easily when swapping wheels. I accidentally got them doubled up when rotated wheels for track. Double rings equates to lugs coming loose and nearly lost a wheel on first lap. Better off just not using the rings. Don’t think it matters. The studs like the wheels up.
03-06-2019, 09:57 AM
Thanks for the vids BTW. I have used many of them!
