Forgestar F14: Not Hub Centric
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Forgestar F14: Not Hub Centric
So it seems that the Forgestars are not hub centric.
Do any of you guys have a problem with the rings?
I will be swapping track and street setups twice a month.
Do the rings hold up.
Anyone have any problems with the wheels or wish they had not got the Forgestars because of this?
Thanks
DH
Do any of you guys have a problem with the rings?
I will be swapping track and street setups twice a month.
Do the rings hold up.
Anyone have any problems with the wheels or wish they had not got the Forgestars because of this?
Thanks
DH
#2
I consider anything with a conical lug seat to be lugcentric and thus far, I've never had a vibration or problems on several vehicles with aftermarket wheels
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet
#3
Le Mans Master
Throw away the dumb plastic rings and use with confidence.
I have been racing on F14s for years. A good race wheel at a good value.
I have been racing on F14s for years. A good race wheel at a good value.
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I consider anything with a conical lug seat to be lugcentric and thus far, I've never had a vibration or problems on several vehicles with aftermarket wheels
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet
DH
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#6
I thought this was a problem. Physics is all wrong if not hub centric. I even epoxied in aluminum rings to make wheel hub centric. That worked ok then heat of racing cause rings to fall out. Some times ring stick on hub then interfere with proper seating. I even feared a helper would not pay attention abd really have serious problem with improper wheel placement. Eventually I gave up the rings. Oli is right. I have continued to race on them and still do without hub centrics abd there is zero problem.
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I thought this was a problem. Physics is all wrong if not hub centric. I even epoxied in aluminum rings to make wheel hub centric. That worked ok then heat of racing cause rings to fall out. Some times ring stick on hub then interfere with proper seating. I even feared a helper would not pay attention abd really have serious problem with improper wheel placement. Eventually I gave up the rings. Oli is right. I have continued to race on them and still do without hub centrics abd there is zero problem.
DH
#8
How about the CF10? Are those wheels good for the track? I am considering getting them for my GS in OEM size and running MPSS. Any worries to speak of?
#9
Le Mans Master
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Rexracer77 (03-04-2019)
#10
Pro
You should really use the aluminum hubcentric rings. They serve as a backup if for some reason there is not sufficient clamping force on the wheel to hub interface. The studs will thank you.
#11
Le Mans Master
#14
Burning Brakes
I’ve taken wheels on and off a bunch and never had a problem with the plastic hubcenteic rings breaking.
I have forgestar street and track wheels so I just leave the rings on.
But ive never used them on my other track/drift car and never had any issues, like others have said.
I have forgestar street and track wheels so I just leave the rings on.
But ive never used them on my other track/drift car and never had any issues, like others have said.
#15
A long time ago Aaron Pfadt posted a detailed thread with an analysis showing hub centric was irrelevant with conical lugs installed to OEM torque. The hub center did nothing to support the wheel.
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acroy (03-05-2019)
#16
Race Director
Last edited by froggy47; 03-05-2019 at 06:28 PM.
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RapidC84B (03-06-2019)
#17
Well, at least it raises your post count! Thanks for the vids BTW. I have used many of them!
#18
1/4 mile/AutoX
have them on two cars( wheels, not plastic rings !!) 02 Z and a 06 Z AutoX both never a issue !!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Pounder; 03-05-2019 at 08:34 PM.
#19
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks all for your replies. I am definitely not worried about rings any longer.
Sorry I got Bob to regurgitate again
Are any of you guys running 18x12 and 18x10 wheels. I would appreciate knowing your offsets. There seems to be a lack of consensus out there as to what is best. I don't want outside fender rubbing with 335 rears and 295 fronts. And I want to keep the basic OEM geometry......in other words I want the same front to rear stager (front narrower than rear)
Thanks
DH
Sorry I got Bob to regurgitate again
Are any of you guys running 18x12 and 18x10 wheels. I would appreciate knowing your offsets. There seems to be a lack of consensus out there as to what is best. I don't want outside fender rubbing with 335 rears and 295 fronts. And I want to keep the basic OEM geometry......in other words I want the same front to rear stager (front narrower than rear)
Thanks
DH
#20
Drifting
My setup:
F: 18x10.5 +56 (12MM spacer so +44) did not rub with 295/35-18 Nitto NT05's when I tested it on the street. Gonna throw some 315 Rivals on in the spring (I know some of you are going on Spring break soon, but it's still in the negative ambient + snowing where I'm at) 25.75" front ride height
R: 18x12 +59, 335/30-18 Rivals, no rub at all. 27" rear ride height? Still in work due to coilover install but there's to much ice out.
F: 18x10.5 +56 (12MM spacer so +44) did not rub with 295/35-18 Nitto NT05's when I tested it on the street. Gonna throw some 315 Rivals on in the spring (I know some of you are going on Spring break soon, but it's still in the negative ambient + snowing where I'm at) 25.75" front ride height
R: 18x12 +59, 335/30-18 Rivals, no rub at all. 27" rear ride height? Still in work due to coilover install but there's to much ice out.
Last edited by ttx350z; 03-06-2019 at 02:06 AM.