Alignment using CSM hub stands by froggy
#41
and since you use the same reference everywhere you are not adding any error into the readings.
Using the metric system of mm for me gives me 2 choices. At the "mm" mark or between two "mm" marks so 1mm or .5 mm which is ~ 0.6 /32" inch.
So I would read this using the right side laser mark as 908mm
#42
Former Vendor
I would remove the rubber gripper to eliminate the problem assuming there is a hard metal surface once removed.
But as suggested mount on the toe bars, but I would measure at a 20-30 ft distance so you can see the difference. If you cannot see any difference at that distance using the 8ft distance required will be perfect.
But as suggested mount on the toe bars, but I would measure at a 20-30 ft distance so you can see the difference. If you cannot see any difference at that distance using the 8ft distance required will be perfect.
Thanks!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
#43
#44
Former Vendor
Thanks!
Colton @ CSM Performance LLC
#45
Race Director
Thread Starter
No need to mount the lasers to the hubs to test.
Put the laser on any smooth surface pointing at a ruler and then place the next laser at the same spot and compare the reading at the laser.
The further away the ruler is the better. I usually use about 20 - 30 ft. but it doesn't matter what distance you use only knowing the further the distance the easier to see the variance. Now don't except both laser to be perfect, very rarely they will be. But they are expected to be +- 1/8" over 50ft ( your unit ).
So what you can do is shim one of the lasers on the hub. So once you find the laser unit that is the lower of the 2 use the elements/ fingers from a feeler gauge and shim the laser until they both match. Then when mounting the
laser on the hubs they will be perfect and no need to worry about any errors. Hopefully your units will be close enough you wont need to shim anything. Or you can use the same laser unit on both sides (moving it ) and the laser error doesn't matter since the true error of the laser is cancelled because the distance is the same on both side.
I like the idea of the hubs and big time saving on doing the alignments. Not as great for just taking measurements, but beats any other process that uses any string setup.
I check my alignment before and after every track event, usually every 2 weeks, so I came up with a process to take measurements very quickly. The process I use takes me about 15 minutes total to measure caster / camber / toe. and I use 2 processes.
1. Direct tires on the concrete just driving on set spots in the garage.
2. Then drive on car to the same spots, but with slip plates with grease between the plates so the suspension settles to the max.
The difference between the 2 measurements I use as suspension wear references. Once the total toes changes more than 1/8th " I start to look for worn out parts. or camber changes more than .3 degrees.
With the hubs I would apply pressure to one rotor and see how much movement it takes to effect the other hub to also see movement. But its worth to take measurements before and after you change parts to see the difference. Then
you will know what to check / look for worn parts.
Put the laser on any smooth surface pointing at a ruler and then place the next laser at the same spot and compare the reading at the laser.
The further away the ruler is the better. I usually use about 20 - 30 ft. but it doesn't matter what distance you use only knowing the further the distance the easier to see the variance. Now don't except both laser to be perfect, very rarely they will be. But they are expected to be +- 1/8" over 50ft ( your unit ).
So what you can do is shim one of the lasers on the hub. So once you find the laser unit that is the lower of the 2 use the elements/ fingers from a feeler gauge and shim the laser until they both match. Then when mounting the
laser on the hubs they will be perfect and no need to worry about any errors. Hopefully your units will be close enough you wont need to shim anything. Or you can use the same laser unit on both sides (moving it ) and the laser error doesn't matter since the true error of the laser is cancelled because the distance is the same on both side.
I like the idea of the hubs and big time saving on doing the alignments. Not as great for just taking measurements, but beats any other process that uses any string setup.
I check my alignment before and after every track event, usually every 2 weeks, so I came up with a process to take measurements very quickly. The process I use takes me about 15 minutes total to measure caster / camber / toe. and I use 2 processes.
1. Direct tires on the concrete just driving on set spots in the garage.
2. Then drive on car to the same spots, but with slip plates with grease between the plates so the suspension settles to the max.
The difference between the 2 measurements I use as suspension wear references. Once the total toes changes more than 1/8th " I start to look for worn out parts. or camber changes more than .3 degrees.
With the hubs I would apply pressure to one rotor and see how much movement it takes to effect the other hub to also see movement. But its worth to take measurements before and after you change parts to see the difference. Then
you will know what to check / look for worn parts.
#46
Race Director
Thread Starter
Laser error discussion
So we talked a bit about this. Here is a real world test I did,
Please comment if I did anything wrong or if you have ideas on how to equalize/synchronize/certify the lasers. Thanks.
Video to come. Reshooting video.
Froggy
Please comment if I did anything wrong or if you have ideas on how to equalize/synchronize/certify the lasers. Thanks.
Video to come. Reshooting video.
Froggy
Last edited by froggy47; 05-03-2019 at 05:19 PM.
#47
Race Director
Thread Starter
I agree its easier to judge the edge of the laser than guess where the middle is.
and since you use the same reference everywhere you are not adding any error into the readings.
Using the metric system of mm for me gives me 2 choices. At the "mm" mark or between two "mm" marks so 1mm or .5 mm which is ~ 0.6 /32" inch.
So I would read this using the right side laser mark as 908mm
and since you use the same reference everywhere you are not adding any error into the readings.
Using the metric system of mm for me gives me 2 choices. At the "mm" mark or between two "mm" marks so 1mm or .5 mm which is ~ 0.6 /32" inch.
So I would read this using the right side laser mark as 908mm
#48
Mount the laser units on the toe bars. Extend a string a long the toe bar to ~ 20ft. Then measure the distance of the laser from the toe bar
and compare the distance of the laser from the string ~ 20ft away.
Here is a picture. If the laser is good both measurements should be ~ 1/16 total difference.
#49
Race Director
Thread Starter
To check the laser units try this.
Mount the laser units on the toe bars. Extend a string a long the toe bar to ~ 20ft. Then measure the distance of the laser from the toe bar
and compare the distance of the laser from the string ~ 20ft away.
Here is a picture. If the laser is good both measurements should be ~ 1/16 total difference.
Mount the laser units on the toe bars. Extend a string a long the toe bar to ~ 20ft. Then measure the distance of the laser from the toe bar
and compare the distance of the laser from the string ~ 20ft away.
Here is a picture. If the laser is good both measurements should be ~ 1/16 total difference.