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Put on the new rotors at home, bed them in, then swap the old rotors back on for the event. When/if you need them at the track, they're all set to go with no worries. As someone said above, anyone who tracked a C5 on OE rotors got really good at swapping rotors at the track. Slide the jack under the rocker, jack it up, pull off the wheel with an impact, remove two caliper bracket bolts with a 21mm socket, slide up caliper, remove old rotor and replace with the new one, push in caliper pistons and slide caliper into place, bolt to 125ft-lbs, install wheel, drop jack, torque wheels. 5 minutes max when you've done it a few times and have the right tools.
- HF small racing jack (you are getting)
- Jacking pucks to use with jack
- Plywood boards to place under jack and under jack stand (you may also need to place a board under the wheel where you are working to make sure you have sufficient room under the car once the jack is on a board)
- Tool to spread the pads so you can remove the caliper.
- Tools to remove/reinstall the caliper bridge bolt
- Combination wrench (21 or 22 mm can't remember which size) to remove brake caliper bolts, socket wrench can be used as well. Recommend purchasing a battery powered impact wrench with a 300 lb ft capability (I have a recent Sears 1/2 inch drive wrench that is capable of removing any bolt/nut that is on the car). A breaker bar may not work as you may not have sufficient room to use it. One thing I found works with a breaker bar is placing it so it hangs down at an angle and then while holding the socket in place lower the car onto the bar and use the car's weight to break the bolts loose. Those bolts take a lot of force. Some guys have the arms to break them loose others don't.
- Torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. I don't use it on the caliper bolts. I just use the impact wrench to get them tight. Been doing that for a lot of years with no issues.
- Make sure the parking brake is set and the car is in reverse (manual) or park (auto)
- Use the jack and jacking puck to jack the car from the forward shipping slot on each side of the car,
place the jack stand under the end of the front cross member just inboard of the lower control arm mounting location. Make sure the top of the jack stand is located so it bridges across the cradle at that point. Not across the car but lengthwise to the car.
One jack stand and the jack used as a back up to the jack stand should be sufficient to do the job safely. However, don't put any part of your body under the car, squat don't sit so if something goes wrong you can get out of the way. Getting the car up in the air this way will get both front wheels off the ground and permit you to turn the steering so you can get better access to the caliper bolts.
Notice in these pictures that I have 3 wheels off the ground.
When changing brakes I place the wheels under the car after I remove them.
The problem you have is limiting tools to the bare minimum so you can carry them in the cargo area along with your luggage, helmet and any fluids you may want to take along with you.
Pre-bed rotors at home on a nice weekend day, as everyone else has mentioned.
Unless series/track rules require it, I wouldn't bother with jackstands for a quick rotor swap. As others have mentioned, once you get the hang of it it is a couple min per wheel, just don't put your body under the car.
Oh, and welding gloves are nice if things are still hot!
I can see (but wouldn’t) not using a stand if changing wheels but anything else absolutely put a stand or a wheel under. Will the jack collapse? Probably not. Have they? Yes. Could you get hurt if you’re trying to loosen the caliper bolts with no jack stand and the jack fails? Yup.
Is it worth saving 10 seconds to toss a stand under? Not for me.
Drive up on some 2x6’s to get clearance for the jack.
I can see (but wouldn’t) not using a stand if changing wheels but anything else absolutely put a stand or a wheel under. Will the jack collapse? Probably not. Have they? Yes. Could you get hurt if you’re trying to loosen the caliper bolts with no jack stand and the jack fails? Yup.
Is it worth saving 10 seconds to toss a stand under? Not for me.
Drive up on some 2x6’s to get clearance for the jack.
I'm surprised no one else has thought to adopt my idea I posted earlier. There's nothing lighter, more compact and faster than this. That's a 2" clearance.
I'm surprised no one else has thought to adopt my idea I posted earlier. There's nothing lighter, more compact and faster than this. That's a 2" clearance.
I'm surprised no one else has thought to adopt my idea I posted earlier. There's nothing lighter, more compact and faster than this. That's a 2" clearance.
It is a great idea, but I didn't think it would work form me. I don't have a cordless impact driver (made the mistake and bought a corded one, so that is staying for now). Also, I thought of using the spare jack from my Honda (similar to yours), however I am afraid that the car won't be stable. I have a metal semi-permanent jacking pucks installed. The jack doesn't have enough surface contact with the puck - small contact of metal on metal.
The HF jack I bought is small, light, and inexpensive. And, I can use it in my garage, if I don't feel like setting up the QuickJack.
It is a great idea, but I didn't think it would work form me. I don't have a cordless impact driver (made the mistake and bought a corded one, so that is staying for now). Also, I thought of using the spare jack from my Honda (similar to yours), however I am afraid that the car won't be stable. I have a metal semi-permanent jacking pucks installed. The jack doesn't have enough surface contact with the puck - small contact of metal on metal.
The HF jack I bought is small, light, and inexpensive. And, I can use it in my garage, if I don't feel like setting up the QuickJack.
Yeah I wouldn't use it on a metal puck. I wouldn't use a metal puck at all actually. Too slippery.
04-23-2019, 10:14 AM
