What oil does everyone run on the track?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What oil does everyone run on the track?
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...ar-contenders/
After reading this article it sparked a thought, What oil everyone runs in their LS based cars on the track? I have been running Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage synthetic. I have seen oil temps close to 300 degrees while on the track. This article makes mention of using a heavier oil like 15w-50 for instance. I was curious if that was common place or if people just run a better brand of oil.
After reading this article it sparked a thought, What oil everyone runs in their LS based cars on the track? I have been running Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage synthetic. I have seen oil temps close to 300 degrees while on the track. This article makes mention of using a heavier oil like 15w-50 for instance. I was curious if that was common place or if people just run a better brand of oil.
#2
10W40 Amsoil Premium with the higher ZDDP. I run it all year round street and track.
Last edited by RapidC84B; 05-14-2019 at 03:25 PM.
#3
I run Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 motor oil that I buy at Walmart because it is cheap and super easy to find....It's also a proven oil that has run literally tens of millions of mile in big rigs under constant load. Oil brand or weight is not going to change your oil temps...only the addition of an oil cooler will. I run an stand alone cooler and have not seen temps go above 256 degrees in 95 degree weather. Your engine really is like a hydraulic pump...all the bearings are kept apart with oil pressure. Since oil cannot be compressed, 50 psi of oil pressure is 50 psi of oil pressure whether you run 0 weight oil or 50 weight oil. People think that the heavier oil will somehow keep parts from touching since it can't be "squished out"....that is not the case. The oil pressure is what keeps critical engine components (like bearings) from touching each other. If you ever have doubts as to how "runny" 15W-50 oil when hot, put about 1000 miles on the oil and drain it hot.....it comes out like water and you'd swear it was 0W-20 oil.
Where the heavier weight oils may have an advantage is during high rpm us such as a track day event. Some of the issues with a very light oil may be aeration at high rpms from the crank, etc frothing up the oil. The problem with aeration is air bubbles are compressible so you lose the ability to maintain safe oil pressures under high loads. Think of oil as a spider with eight legs....the harder the oil is used the more the "legs" break off and the oil loses its stability. That is a very simplistic concept, but in a sense it is how oil works when new vs worn. The bigger the spread between the numbers, the more viscosity additives are required....and those additives cause a quicker breakdown than say a straight 30 weight oil. In real world use, because we live in a first world country it really won't come into play since we can all afford to change our oil after 3 to 5 track events without even thinking about it.
The cheapest Super Tech non synthetic oil you get at Walmart will get the job done, even on the track. The reality is lack of oil (usually due to lack of oil pressure) is what will kill your engine, not the brand or weight. If you want to drop the oil temps, add a cooler and go have fun.
Where the heavier weight oils may have an advantage is during high rpm us such as a track day event. Some of the issues with a very light oil may be aeration at high rpms from the crank, etc frothing up the oil. The problem with aeration is air bubbles are compressible so you lose the ability to maintain safe oil pressures under high loads. Think of oil as a spider with eight legs....the harder the oil is used the more the "legs" break off and the oil loses its stability. That is a very simplistic concept, but in a sense it is how oil works when new vs worn. The bigger the spread between the numbers, the more viscosity additives are required....and those additives cause a quicker breakdown than say a straight 30 weight oil. In real world use, because we live in a first world country it really won't come into play since we can all afford to change our oil after 3 to 5 track events without even thinking about it.
The cheapest Super Tech non synthetic oil you get at Walmart will get the job done, even on the track. The reality is lack of oil (usually due to lack of oil pressure) is what will kill your engine, not the brand or weight. If you want to drop the oil temps, add a cooler and go have fun.
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Kubs (05-15-2019)
#4
Amsoil 10w-30 dominator here. I'm in AZ so temps get pretty hot on track this time of year. It was ~80F this past weekend and I saw a max of 250F oil temps after around 7-8 laps/session. C5 base model with no oil cooler.
#5
Drifting
Amsoil Dominator 15w50
#8
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https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-EA?zo=1934716
There is also the Z-Rod line of oil, that is intended for flat tappet cam engines. This also has increased levels of ZDDP for protection and can be found in a 30 weight if you prefer:
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-EA?zo=1934716
Those temps you are seeing are kind of high, but not out of the design window for a good synthetic.
Running 50wt oil in an engine with tighter clearances not designed for it can actually generate more heat and friction. Also, the Dominator racing oil mentioned does not have the cleaners and detergents needed for an oil that see street use and longer drain intervals. The racing oils are expected to be changed much more often than regular street oils.
Last edited by Kubs; 05-15-2019 at 08:48 AM.
#9
Drifting
Mine is track only. 74k miles on the LS6 before it went into a racecar and did 3 seasons before I bought it and now I've ran it 4 seasons wheel to wheel racing. Not disagreeing with you, just giving OP the info. I also use a accusump to prime the motor before starting. Only thing I've done to the motor is new gm springs when I put a ASA cam in it 2 or so years ago.
#10
Drifting
I've been using Mobil 1 15W-50 in my LS6 for 5 years now. At my first or second track event my oil temps were very high. My instructor who is knowledgeable on C5's recommended I use 15W-50 going forward. I did some forum research and it seemed like a common choice for LS6 track cars. I always let the car warm up (idling) on a track morning to 150+ and typically won't crank up rpm's until its 180+. I've since installed an oil cooler and I regularly see about 260 as the highest oil temp. I believe I hit 270 once on a really hot summer day.
Not saying its the right way or recommended. Just sharing my story from a guy who seemed to know what he was talking about. I've sent 2 or 3 blackstones in over the years and the reports have always been positive.
I rarely street drive it, and when I do I also let it warm up for 10 minutes before driving it.
Not saying its the right way or recommended. Just sharing my story from a guy who seemed to know what he was talking about. I've sent 2 or 3 blackstones in over the years and the reports have always been positive.
I rarely street drive it, and when I do I also let it warm up for 10 minutes before driving it.
#11
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My post was mostly a PSA since the OP asked about 50wt.
Those with race cars and oil coolers probably dont see the increase in heat you might on a stock engine. But if you can keep the oil cool, is the heavier weight still necessary? Plus wouldn't it be nice to just get in your car and go on the street without having to wait 10min?
Those with race cars and oil coolers probably dont see the increase in heat you might on a stock engine. But if you can keep the oil cool, is the heavier weight still necessary? Plus wouldn't it be nice to just get in your car and go on the street without having to wait 10min?
#12
Pro
M1 0w-40 and the car sees 90% track miles. Last blackstone results came back perfect and I burn almost zero oil on my LS6. I have an external cooler with thermostat. Track temps typically land around 260.
#13
orderd motul 15w50 for this track season
isnt 0w40 an odd choice for track duty? Im old I guess, but we used to run 10w60 on all bmw, and 5w50 and 15w50 or 10w60 for all porsche stuff.
isnt 0w40 an odd choice for track duty? Im old I guess, but we used to run 10w60 on all bmw, and 5w50 and 15w50 or 10w60 for all porsche stuff.
#15
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Aagin, it depends on the clearances and what the engine is designed for. I used to run AMSOIL 10W30 in my C4 back when it was a stock street car. I did have an oil cooler, and I always had good pressure. When I rebuilt the engine I had to turn the crank journals a little and the clearances ended up larger than I would have liked (even with the undersize bearings) so I run 15W50 now. I would still be using 30wt if I could.
Last edited by Kubs; 05-16-2019 at 08:46 AM.
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I haven't switched to Amsoil for engine oil in my Vette. I am a Preferred Customer so I will look into it.
It is hard to pass up Mobil 1 for this car as it was designed for this engine.
I have read 10w-30 is fine for track use and actually is recommended due to tighter clearances. My old ZR-1 I ran 10w-30 high mileage without issues. It screamed to 7200 RPM.
It is hard to pass up Mobil 1 for this car as it was designed for this engine.
I have read 10w-30 is fine for track use and actually is recommended due to tighter clearances. My old ZR-1 I ran 10w-30 high mileage without issues. It screamed to 7200 RPM.
#17
Drifting
I used regular Mobil 1. After installing a cam and high pressure valve springs, I went to Mobil 1 High Mileage for the increased zinc / phosphorus. After Mobil decrease the zddp in HM I changed to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. My next move will be to Rotella T6.
#18
Melting Slicks
Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 in both C7Zs ('16 & '19) now. Based on the messaging from GM around 15w-50 being tied to the cat issues, I made the jump. I couldn't keep cats in the '16 car. Everything has been swell with pressure and cats but I only have 5 events so far this year.
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#20
Safety Car
Valvoline VR1 SAE40 in my LT1. It's cheap, stable, and has more zinc than others according to the label I've been too forgetful to fact check. I recently ditched my big Afco with integrated oil cooler for a stock replacement radiator and non-ghetto non-turbulent ducting. Coolant stays 190-200 so far but oil is pushing 300, thanks non roller rockers (not allowed to change). The thought occurred to me today, would a high end group 5 synthetic be able to reduce the temps?