ShahulX

So I just put xp20 on the front and xp10 rear.. Rbf660 fluid (which has worked in the past) on my 2010 z06

I did about 20 stops from like 60 to 20 ish..(quiet secluded backroad) Smelled the pads.. And the brakes start to fade bad.. Normal for a burnish procedure.. Let it cool and drive back 15 minutes trying to stay off the brakes... Which is good.. Because the whole ride home the pedal went to the floor and maybe like 10%.. The whole drive home.. Luckily my driveway is uphill and no traffic and made the two traffic lights

Gonna head out again now.. But all seems normal?

I have a track day Sunday (2 days from now)

Dirty Howie

Not normal in my experience. 15 minutes is a lot of cool down time. Brakes should have been grabbing with light touch. But I never used those pads........


DH

ShahulX

Man.. Well.. Hope it holds up.. Maybe I need new steel lines

sccaGT1racer

Depends on how your rotors were worn. Hard pads take longer to bed in to a non flat surface.

ShahulX

that would produce the fade? I am worried the lines are expanding.. or somehow the rbf660 was boiling ? maybe the c6 z06 doesnt have good brake cooling ducting like Ive read..

the rotors did pass state inspections which are tough in Maryland. I was planning on switching to DBA5000 front and 4000 rear anyways.. but not in time for this weekend.. oh well.. fingers crossed.. 6 piston fronts, 4 piston rear, carbotech pads, motul 660 fluid, new nitto nt01's and 3200 lbs... it better flippin stop when I need !!

fatbillybob

You need to bleed brakes

ShahulX

I just did a full flush with rbf660 a few days ago?

Dirty Howie

I think Carl is trying to tell you that you burnt the fluid in the caliper. Just bleed a few pumps not a full flush.


DH

rocsvette

I’ve run my 06 Z06 135k miles, use Carbo XP10/8 front to rear with mogul 600 and have never experienced a problem either with bedding or on track (close to half the miles on track). Original calipers, slotted rotors and at 100k changed the brake lines to SS braided. The problem with the usual rubber lines is that they will look good and even work ok with general street driving but when the fluid gets hot and they are old and weak, they will swell thus eliminating pressure in the lines = no stopping. I didn’t see age or mileage on your Z but it’s something to look into if this is a “hot’ issue.

davidfarmer

I think you either didn't bed them enough, or you didn't bleed thoroughly previously. 20 medium speed stops isn't going to boil the fluid or damage a line.

I always go around and verify all 4 rotors reached ample temperature after bedding (fronts should be hotter than rears etc). Only takes a few minutes to pull the wheels and check the lines and burp the calipers before wasting time at the track.

Good luck

ShahulX

Thanks for everything.. Im. Gonna do a flush and cross my fingers..

Car has 86k miles.. 2010..

Ill change the rotors soon and maybe switch off the xp20 front to xp12..

Hearing others on stock lines and Calipers makes me feel better

KNSBrakes

Most likely you overheated the fluid. I think 20 stops and bad fade are a bit too much for bedding.

-Ken

davidfarmer

I only disagree because 60-20 is a very small energy change. 20 full stops from 100+ would be another matter

Supercharged111

I always bed in pads on a practice day or during warmup. Some pads will give a green fade, when that happens it's time to come in and let them cool. I don't even bed in street pads any more, it never gets them all the way.

ShahulX

Yea the c7 owners manual was so specific on the brake burnish procedure... And the carbotech pads came with them also as have other pads in the past.. This is the 1st time I've gotten this level of fade.. The c7 with ccbs even faded some but it even said it would.

I'm curious if I'd have been better off with the xp12 front vs xp20.. Maybe generate too much heat

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Carbotech offers Pre bed pads this may have been a benefit for you, As to 12 vs 20 they take the same procedure see below.

All new brake pads require a bedding process. The proper way to bed your brake pads and brake discs (rotors) is to bed them on the racetrack, NOT on the street. Start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.

After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.

Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes. Failure to properly bed in your pads could cause friction material to chunk and break up resulting in poor pad performance and pad life. Improper bedding can also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over, resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow properly.

ShahulX

yea I was trying not to lose a session bedding in pads.. I'll pre-bed next time I guy from you

If it was glazed over , how is that remedies, just some normal driving to remove material?

I did get the brakes flushed today with new RBF660... fingers crossed for tomorrow

JRitt@essex

Please check out our burnishing video in our learning center:

https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq

ShahulX

Brakes lasted 8 laps.. pedal to the floor.. maybe needs rotors and steel brake lines.. worked amazing for 8 laps haha

unless anyone wants to buy a 2010 Z06 w/ 85k+ miles, with heads done, valve guides and cammed(recent and documented near $6000).. with new bushings/shocks and sways, all fluids (brake fluid, diff, mobil 1 oil, trans fluid) full service done.. new nitto nt01 tires (less 6 laps), carbotech pads, tow hook installed, headunit w/bluetooth streaming.. new battery, new wiper blades (for state inspection), full alignment done...just spent $3500 in parts and $2800 in service/labor.. if you can sort the brakes you'd have a great track car... PM me

I may buy a C7 again or I dunno what... maybe try this once again.

Supercharged111

Can you post a video? What track is it? Pedal to the floor is fluid boiling, so it could be a cooling issue, track that's hell on brakes, your driving style, or a trifecta.