MarkAVette

I've always used ATE 200 and like the price/performance of the brake fluid but this was for a 250HP car on 245 tires. Does anyone have experience using it for advanced HPDE with R compounds on a GS or base C6? I know it does not have the highest stats but looking for real world experience on whether it works or not. I'll likely be getting an advanced auto fab brake cooling kit and using it with the GS setup without additional ducting from the front.

Also, I've found you need a tech II to bleed the ABS. Do most of you use that or do you go without? Seems like it would be important for the first flush with probably 30k old stock fluid in the system.

Thanks,
Mark

Pounder

My wife and I use that fluid in both Auto X cars, 02 Z 06 and a 06 Z 06 !!!! no issues !!! I am a firm believer in the Auto Bleed with the Tech 2, it is why I bought the clone Tech 2 for my 99, wanted to flush brake fluid completely for the health of my EBCM !!!

Nowanker

I've used the Typ 200 in my track/race cars for a long time, "Super Blue" before that, no issues. It doesn't have the highest boiling point, for sure, but it's reasonably priced and readily available.
Running it currently in my C6 Z, No issues at Laguna or Buttonwillow running NT01s/Stoptech brakes/Raybestos pads. I flush before each event...

96GS#007

I ran Typ 200 for years, first in my ‘96 then in my ‘13. I bled the brakes quarterly and never used a Tech II for the ABS in either car. The only way that fluid matters would be a massive leak, in which case clean or dirty, you’re not stopping.

In the ‘19 I switched to SRF and will bleed once per year. It’s 8 months old and didn’t miss a beat in 90* temps braking from 130 to 40.

The once a year bleed with SRF means it’s about the same cost as Typ 200 but you save the time associated with 3 additional bleeds.

Scooter70

I've been using Type200 for years and never had fluid issues. I like to take the few minutes to do a quick bleed with fresh fluid before a track weekend and use that time to inspect brake parts and make sure that everything is ok. My local independent auto parts store has it for $12 a liter so I always have a few cans on hand.

Bill Dearborn

The automated bleed isn't necessary as long as you don't get air in the brake pressure modulator. When you bleed the brakes without activating the module you get almost all of the old fluid out of it. However, there will be some trapped behind some of the closed solenoids just like air could be trapped behind them. That little bit of old fluid won't hurt your braking although if you have air in the same locations you will have an issue.

Sometimes you can get around the automated bleed by taking the car for a ride on a low grip surface (wet, loose dirt, etc) and hitting the brakes to cycle the ABS (all 4 wheels ABSing) a couple of times. Then go back and bleed the brakes again. I have used this method a couple of times to get air out of the module after I let air get into it. It has only worked about 50% of the time for me but it is cheaper than going to a dealer or buying your own Tech 2.

Bill

mgarfias

Just go stomp on the brakes on slick pavement to cycle the ABS.

mgarfias

Also: tech2s are cheap: https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-1568-...ZUHolden).html

At least clones, they work just as well.

Craiger77

I use ATE 200 in my C6z.
Just did a full HPDE after several AX’s on it with no issues. I did a flush after and the fluid from the caliper and lines looked perfect. I also like it for the price at performance level because I can flush it more frequently to ensure a “dry” fluid

MarkAVette

Thanks all. I do a complete flush before the first HPDE of the year in the 944 Turbo with ATE 200. I bleed the calipers when changing brake pads/rims for the remaining events but don't do a full flush. I suppose it could be absorbing moisture over the 7-8 month season. A flush before every event seems excessive. Will brake fluid pick up that much moisture over 7-8 months to be closer to the wet boiling point than the dry?

How much brake fluid is used for a full flush on the Corvette? I suppose it should be obvious to determine for me given how dirty the stock fluid is but would like to have enough on hand. The 944 track car fluid is always clean so I just take a given amount out.

I still need to buy a Motive brake bleeder. I have a very nice European pressure bleeder with of course custom mounts and attachments and no GM caps available for it. Still determining if I should get a tech II at $300. I'll likely hold off on that although sometimes these things eventually become unavailable for older generations.

Craiger77

My maintenance cycle on brake fluid is probably excessive. I do a complete fluid flush every spring before the track season. It takes me about 1.5 L.
I always do a clutch fluid flush with the leftover .5.

I dont flush after every event, but do bleed the fluid out of the front calipers and refill what I took out after every several events or if I know I really stressed the brakes. There is probably very little or no moisture in the fluid, I havent had any boiling issues yet
I wouldn't maintain this cycle if the price of ATE were higher or if I had to switch to more expensive stuff.

Scooter70

Someone posted the number of pumps per corner to flush the system a while ago. From memory it was something like 15 on the RR, 9 on the LR, 5 on RF, and 4 on the LF.

anth115

Just chiming in to add my $0.02:
- I'm on PS4S but Typ200 hasn't let me down yet. Cheap, easy to find, and best boiling point per buck I could find.
- Put me down as a +1 in the "take it for a drive and stomp the brakes to cycle the ABS" club
- Even with using the motive which runs at ~15psi, I get my best results if I do the last bit of each caliper with the old school 2 person method - your foot generates much more PSI than the motive.
- Tapping a rubber mallet on the caliper and flex hose helps me dislodge a lot of gunk during the process.

When you inevitably melt the dust boots off your oem calipers, consider upgrading to the DRM SS pistons before you replace the dust boots. Not hard to do and gives a good bit more thermal capacity. May even pay for itself in a few seasons if you can continue using ATE afterwards rather than stepping up to SRF.