FS: '63 SWC Fuelie project in N. TX
11-04-2017, 09:26 AM
#1
'63 SWC Fuelie project in N. TX
Located north Dallas, TX. Not my car, but I'm trying to go see it this weekend. I'll post more if/when I get a look at it.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...377305879.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...377305879.html
Last edited by ranger9812; 11-23-2017 at 07:20 AM.
11-06-2017, 11:12 PM
#3
Got an email response back from the guy, along with some pictures. It actually looks like his story could be true, but without the original block or paperwork proving it's an L84, I guess it's won't be the next great barn-find story. Still sounds like a solid project starter if you could get it for the right price.
"I do have the original FI air cleaner setup. (pictures attached)
Title is clean and clear.
My dad bought the car in 1965 in Dallas. He has been the only owner of the car since then.
Original VIN and trim tags. (picture included)
Normal surface rust you would expect on a car this age.
Car spent the majority of its life in garages.
No other evidence of collisions or repairs besides the front.
No other paperwork on proving its an original FI car. Have never taken gas tank out to check for build sheet or any of that.
Engine was pulled due to a twisted insert and a new short block was installed. Dad did all the work himself.
Unfortunately the original short block was mistakenly sold as scrap iron years ago.
Original 4 speed transmission to the car along with pressure plate and flywheel"
"I do have the original FI air cleaner setup. (pictures attached)
Title is clean and clear.
My dad bought the car in 1965 in Dallas. He has been the only owner of the car since then.
Original VIN and trim tags. (picture included)
Normal surface rust you would expect on a car this age.
Car spent the majority of its life in garages.
No other evidence of collisions or repairs besides the front.
No other paperwork on proving its an original FI car. Have never taken gas tank out to check for build sheet or any of that.
Engine was pulled due to a twisted insert and a new short block was installed. Dad did all the work himself.
Unfortunately the original short block was mistakenly sold as scrap iron years ago.
Original 4 speed transmission to the car along with pressure plate and flywheel"
Last edited by ranger9812; 11-23-2017 at 07:21 AM.
12-17-2017, 05:47 PM
#7
Pro
75k and 75k to restore it and it would be worth at least 150k, maybe 155k.
12-27-2017, 09:39 AM
#9
Pro
01-01-2018, 09:45 AM
#10
I got an email back from this guy over the last week that he has a current offer of $50K that he's working with. He said if that doesn't pan out, he'd get back with me. I'll let you guys know if I hear from him again.
01-01-2018, 11:09 AM
#11
Pro
Are we talking about the 63 white with black car? I spoke to him 2 weeks ago when I was going to be in his area and he said he had an offer of 75k. Interestinv.
01-01-2018, 11:49 AM
#12
No, this one is Daytona Blue over Dark Blue. He claims it's an original fuelie and has the FI parts but not the original short block or any documentation to prove its pedigree.
The following users liked this post:
BlackMoon (01-01-2018)
01-01-2018, 04:41 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
I am no expert on all the aspects unique to FI cars but here are some items to examine and consider if you get that far. Maybe you have all this info and more so I maybe taking up your time. Anyway, I looked over the photos again posted with the Craigslist ad.
1. The heads look to have been ported and polished and fitted with 2.02 valves. The date codes on the heads should predate the build date of the car and make sure they are Flint castings.
2. The exhaust manifolds carry no date codes. A heat riser spacer was used in place of a heat riser so if a heat riser is present that's a question mark. If the spacer is present it will be marked "UP" on one side if it has not rusted off.
3. The original 902 passenger side manifold will not have a choke hole and may have a dimple within a circle to indicate where the choke hole would be drilled. I have one so marked but have not seen another.
4. There were two revisions to the air cleaner canister where the clamps were relocated. I am not familiar with when the revisions were made on the production line but if the owner has the last revision that might be a question mark. I'm not certain but think the last revision was in 64.
5. Check the date code on the 011 distributor, should predate the car.
6. Check the serial number on the plenum ID tag. While the serial number is not linked to the car and did not follow a strict ascending order you can get a feel that it could be original to the car. Since there were 2600+ 63s made with FI and this maybe a late car, with AM/FM as a clue, then I would hope for a serial number on the plenum above 3000. Since the FI was available OTC this also affects the serial number feeling. If you have an early car with a high plenum serial number or a late car with a low serial number plenum that would be a question mark. Serial numbers start at 1000, and it should be a 375 not a 375R model injector.
7. Check the date code on the FI adapter bed plate located on the bottom side, should predate the car.
8. The injector is missing the choke, expensive. The fuel meter is suspect as it has what appears to be the nut and screw from a 380 injector in the wrong location holding down the fuel lid. Check the injector nozzles are all "W" code nozzles.
9. Trans not listed, Muncie or T10, check the date code on the bell housing, flywheel, harmonic balancer.
You will pay a lot for the dance but you want to be the one that steps on toes, not the other way around.
1. The heads look to have been ported and polished and fitted with 2.02 valves. The date codes on the heads should predate the build date of the car and make sure they are Flint castings.
2. The exhaust manifolds carry no date codes. A heat riser spacer was used in place of a heat riser so if a heat riser is present that's a question mark. If the spacer is present it will be marked "UP" on one side if it has not rusted off.
3. The original 902 passenger side manifold will not have a choke hole and may have a dimple within a circle to indicate where the choke hole would be drilled. I have one so marked but have not seen another.
4. There were two revisions to the air cleaner canister where the clamps were relocated. I am not familiar with when the revisions were made on the production line but if the owner has the last revision that might be a question mark. I'm not certain but think the last revision was in 64.
5. Check the date code on the 011 distributor, should predate the car.
6. Check the serial number on the plenum ID tag. While the serial number is not linked to the car and did not follow a strict ascending order you can get a feel that it could be original to the car. Since there were 2600+ 63s made with FI and this maybe a late car, with AM/FM as a clue, then I would hope for a serial number on the plenum above 3000. Since the FI was available OTC this also affects the serial number feeling. If you have an early car with a high plenum serial number or a late car with a low serial number plenum that would be a question mark. Serial numbers start at 1000, and it should be a 375 not a 375R model injector.
7. Check the date code on the FI adapter bed plate located on the bottom side, should predate the car.
8. The injector is missing the choke, expensive. The fuel meter is suspect as it has what appears to be the nut and screw from a 380 injector in the wrong location holding down the fuel lid. Check the injector nozzles are all "W" code nozzles.
9. Trans not listed, Muncie or T10, check the date code on the bell housing, flywheel, harmonic balancer.
You will pay a lot for the dance but you want to be the one that steps on toes, not the other way around.
01-01-2018, 04:55 PM
#14
Pro
I am no expert on all the aspects unique to FI cars but here are some items to examine and consider if you get that far. Maybe you have all this info and more so I maybe taking up your time. Anyway, I looked over the photos again posted with the Craigslist ad.
1. The heads look to have been ported and polished and fitted with 2.02 valves. The date codes on the heads should predate the build date of the car and make sure they are Flint castings.
2. The exhaust manifolds carry no date codes. A heat riser spacer was used in place of a heat riser so if a heat riser is present that's a question mark. If the spacer is present it will be marked "UP" on one side if it has not rusted off.
3. The original 902 passenger side manifold will not have a choke hole and may have a dimple within a circle to indicate where the choke hole would be drilled. I have one so marked but have not seen another.
4. There were two revisions to the air cleaner canister where the clamps were relocated. I am not familiar with when the revisions were made on the production line but if the owner has the last revision that might be a question mark. I'm not certain but think the last revision was in 64.
5. Check the date code on the 011 distributor, should predate the car.
6. Check the serial number on the plenum ID tag. While the serial number is not linked to the car and did not follow a strict ascending order you can get a feel that it could be original to the car. Since there were 2600+ 63s made with FI and this maybe a late car, with AM/FM as a clue, then I would hope for a serial number on the plenum above 3000. Since the FI was available OTC this also affects the serial number feeling. If you have an early car with a high plenum serial number or a late car with a low serial number plenum that would be a question mark. Serial numbers start at 1000, and it should be a 375 not a 375R model injector.
7. Check the date code on the FI adapter bed plate located on the bottom side, should predate the car.
8. The injector is missing the choke, expensive. The fuel meter is suspect as it has what appears to be the nut and screw from a 380 injector in the wrong location holding down the fuel lid. Check the injector nozzles are all "W" code nozzles.
9. Trans not listed, Muncie or T10, check the date code on the bell housing, flywheel, harmonic balancer.
You will pay a lot for the dance but you want to be the one that steps on toes, not the other way around.
1. The heads look to have been ported and polished and fitted with 2.02 valves. The date codes on the heads should predate the build date of the car and make sure they are Flint castings.
2. The exhaust manifolds carry no date codes. A heat riser spacer was used in place of a heat riser so if a heat riser is present that's a question mark. If the spacer is present it will be marked "UP" on one side if it has not rusted off.
3. The original 902 passenger side manifold will not have a choke hole and may have a dimple within a circle to indicate where the choke hole would be drilled. I have one so marked but have not seen another.
4. There were two revisions to the air cleaner canister where the clamps were relocated. I am not familiar with when the revisions were made on the production line but if the owner has the last revision that might be a question mark. I'm not certain but think the last revision was in 64.
5. Check the date code on the 011 distributor, should predate the car.
6. Check the serial number on the plenum ID tag. While the serial number is not linked to the car and did not follow a strict ascending order you can get a feel that it could be original to the car. Since there were 2600+ 63s made with FI and this maybe a late car, with AM/FM as a clue, then I would hope for a serial number on the plenum above 3000. Since the FI was available OTC this also affects the serial number feeling. If you have an early car with a high plenum serial number or a late car with a low serial number plenum that would be a question mark. Serial numbers start at 1000, and it should be a 375 not a 375R model injector.
7. Check the date code on the FI adapter bed plate located on the bottom side, should predate the car.
8. The injector is missing the choke, expensive. The fuel meter is suspect as it has what appears to be the nut and screw from a 380 injector in the wrong location holding down the fuel lid. Check the injector nozzles are all "W" code nozzles.
9. Trans not listed, Muncie or T10, check the date code on the bell housing, flywheel, harmonic balancer.
You will pay a lot for the dance but you want to be the one that steps on toes, not the other way around.