1966 Corvette 427 Identification
04-11-2014, 05:28 AM
#21
Cruising
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Nothing in the vin or trin tags will tell you that.
all 66big blocks used an 11" clutch with a 14" diameter 168 tooth flywheel, EXCEPT L-88 (which used a 10.4" clutch with a 12-1/2" , 153 tooth flywheel) The '444' bellhousing is designed for use with a 14" flywheel. It was used for 1966 and very early 1967 Corvette with 427 (except L-88). Other BB-SB differences:
front AND rear sway bar
Two holes in trailing arm drilled to mount the rear sway bar.
instruments (oil and possibly tach)
Steel line from high limit oil pressure gage to engine.
front springs (tagged)
LH battery holder and BB cables
Riveted battery cable clip near RH (pass.) side of tunnel opening
washer fluid bag (on A-C cars)
radiator, shroud, and no aluminum expansion tank
Tapped differential yokes with bolt on caps.
hood with intake port(s)
all engine accessories except PS pump
power steering hose and fitting
clutch cross shaft
probably the flywheel and clutch assembly
lower splash shields
2.5 inch exhausts
exhaust heat shields
.375 fuel line pointed forward for BB pump
different code stamped on differential
BB throttle lever curves back from pivot toward rear of car, SB is straight
L79 TI box bolted on LH wheel well and a clip for its wiring under the master cylinder
Registration weight shows BB added, "add" weights:
a31 Power windows___ +5
co7 Hard top________+49
c48 less Heater______-20
c60 a-c____________+93
j50 power Brake_____ +12
L89 aluminum Heads__-73
m20 4speed _________-5
m35 powerglide ______+1
n40 power Steering__ +21
u69 radio __________ +21
l79 327/35 0 ________ -8
l36 427/390 ________+215
l68 427/400 ________+151
l71 427/435 ________+149
The base car is a 327 with 3 speed.
Convertible curb weight 3160
Coupe curb weight 3140
all 66big blocks used an 11" clutch with a 14" diameter 168 tooth flywheel, EXCEPT L-88 (which used a 10.4" clutch with a 12-1/2" , 153 tooth flywheel) The '444' bellhousing is designed for use with a 14" flywheel. It was used for 1966 and very early 1967 Corvette with 427 (except L-88). Other BB-SB differences:
front AND rear sway bar
Two holes in trailing arm drilled to mount the rear sway bar.
instruments (oil and possibly tach)
Steel line from high limit oil pressure gage to engine.
front springs (tagged)
LH battery holder and BB cables
Riveted battery cable clip near RH (pass.) side of tunnel opening
washer fluid bag (on A-C cars)
radiator, shroud, and no aluminum expansion tank
Tapped differential yokes with bolt on caps.
hood with intake port(s)
all engine accessories except PS pump
power steering hose and fitting
clutch cross shaft
probably the flywheel and clutch assembly
lower splash shields
2.5 inch exhausts
exhaust heat shields
.375 fuel line pointed forward for BB pump
different code stamped on differential
BB throttle lever curves back from pivot toward rear of car, SB is straight
L79 TI box bolted on LH wheel well and a clip for its wiring under the master cylinder
Registration weight shows BB added, "add" weights:
a31 Power windows___ +5
co7 Hard top________+49
c48 less Heater______-20
c60 a-c____________+93
j50 power Brake_____ +12
L89 aluminum Heads__-73
m20 4speed _________-5
m35 powerglide ______+1
n40 power Steering__ +21
u69 radio __________ +21
l79 327/35 0 ________ -8
l36 427/390 ________+215
l68 427/400 ________+151
l71 427/435 ________+149
The base car is a 327 with 3 speed.
Convertible curb weight 3160
Coupe curb weight 3140
Is that all 3 for just the side ones?
04-11-2014, 06:27 AM
#22
Burning Brakes
66 427
My car exhibits all of the criteria above, and also has another "J" wire support clip(like the unique clip on the firewall below the left hood latch that is bolted not riveted). I also have the same type of clamp attached to one of the two hood support bolts. I have been told that these two coated clips are for the TI wire harness which is part of an L72 setup.
04-11-2014, 06:43 AM
#23
Race Director
04-11-2014, 06:48 AM
#24
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2008
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The forensic work to determine the original engines in these cars is what makes them easy to counterfeit, unfortunately.
However, a car selling now for under 15K-ish is not likely to have been a forgery in the past (they weren't as valuable years ago) and for 15K it would not be worth it to try to fake one. For example, the differential code would be key in my mind, as quite a bit of disassembly would be required to change it to a bb code differential case, which would not likely be done for a low bucks non-pristene car. That and the U-joints.
My thoughts are if it has a preponderance of evidence, i.e., a majority of the clues of a big block that it is likely to have been a big block. In particular, if you have a lot of the more hard to change or hard to fake evidence, (or the really minutia sorts of things, like the WS wiper fluid bag clip holes mentioned above) you are likely to have the real McCoy. Remember that the big block cars were not highly sought after during the earlier gas crisis, and many went to untimely ends.
If you are going to buy it and restore its to former glory, then I would recommend heavily documenting its original condition, with detailed pictures, even to the point of having an expert examine it - to the tune of a few hundred dollars. This would aid in establishing the value later after your work and resources, and help to minimize the claims of forgery that are inevitable in today's market.
Kevin
However, a car selling now for under 15K-ish is not likely to have been a forgery in the past (they weren't as valuable years ago) and for 15K it would not be worth it to try to fake one. For example, the differential code would be key in my mind, as quite a bit of disassembly would be required to change it to a bb code differential case, which would not likely be done for a low bucks non-pristene car. That and the U-joints.
My thoughts are if it has a preponderance of evidence, i.e., a majority of the clues of a big block that it is likely to have been a big block. In particular, if you have a lot of the more hard to change or hard to fake evidence, (or the really minutia sorts of things, like the WS wiper fluid bag clip holes mentioned above) you are likely to have the real McCoy. Remember that the big block cars were not highly sought after during the earlier gas crisis, and many went to untimely ends.
If you are going to buy it and restore its to former glory, then I would recommend heavily documenting its original condition, with detailed pictures, even to the point of having an expert examine it - to the tune of a few hundred dollars. This would aid in establishing the value later after your work and resources, and help to minimize the claims of forgery that are inevitable in today's market.
Kevin
Last edited by Easy Rhino; 04-11-2014 at 06:51 AM.
04-11-2014, 08:18 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
another clue?
Easy is correct changing out the rear is not easy. neither is changing the dash. Dash tach's and Oil gages are easily changed, not so easy changing the whole dash cluster. First one must be found around the correct date. Example my dash is coded LB and stamped Mar 26. My car was delivered to Emmert Chevrolet on 4/12(48 years tomorrow!!).
and further proves the validity of my L72.
I have never tried to see the date stamp with the dash installed. I can see the LB it is big. Assuming that the date is stamped in approximately the same location on at least 66??, I can take a photo of where mine is located and post it. Might be hard to see with dash installed.
and further proves the validity of my L72.
I have never tried to see the date stamp with the dash installed. I can see the LB it is big. Assuming that the date is stamped in approximately the same location on at least 66??, I can take a photo of where mine is located and post it. Might be hard to see with dash installed.
04-11-2014, 08:26 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
Schwantzman hasn't been seen or heard from on the CF for over eight years.
04-11-2014, 09:49 PM
#27
Team Owner
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04-12-2014, 06:01 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
Well OK!!
I did not notice the age of this thread either. Still lots of good info. that keeps goin' round here. It seems the same basic ?'s keep reappearing, vin tags, teaks, BB car id's. It is all good stuff.
I know that I do not see that well(notice age of this thread), and now that memory is starting to go too, it is good, for me at least. to have a refresher now and then. rarely do I read this forum and not learn something that I did not know(or forgot!) Plus some good stories.
this thread captures most of the BB criteria in one place.
I also have a coated "J" wire retainer clip that is located under the inner hood support bolt, on top of the mounting bracket. Did all C2's come this way, or is this another part of the TI setup?
It looks like the same as the clip that is bolted to the firewall below the hood latch for TI. Thanks
I know that I do not see that well(notice age of this thread), and now that memory is starting to go too, it is good, for me at least. to have a refresher now and then. rarely do I read this forum and not learn something that I did not know(or forgot!) Plus some good stories.
this thread captures most of the BB criteria in one place.
I also have a coated "J" wire retainer clip that is located under the inner hood support bolt, on top of the mounting bracket. Did all C2's come this way, or is this another part of the TI setup?
It looks like the same as the clip that is bolted to the firewall below the hood latch for TI. Thanks
