Front end alignment help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 652
From: Richmond VA
Front end alignment help
Finished rebuilding the frontend on my 62. new shafts bushings and upper control arms. Did everything by the book centering the control arms on the shafts etc. Had the front end aligned at a local shop that is supposed to be very good with this vintage car.
The caster was adjusted to the limit and is .08 degrees and the spec is
1.5 to 2.5 degrees. the shop told me that I have a bent spindle support on the right side. I have measured the spindle support and compared it to the left side and can not find any difference. This was not a problem before so I don't see why it should be now.
It doesn't seem to make sense to have the camber/caster adjustment adjusted all the way to one side even if this gets you within the correct range because if makes the grease seal on one sides useless.
Is there a way to compensate by installing the upper control arm offset so as to get the caster adjustment centered in the other end of the control arm.
By the way I found that shop had cut one of the grease seals out and when I removed the tires to check out the work I found the lug nuts were not tightened. Maybe my problem is just the shop
The caster was adjusted to the limit and is .08 degrees and the spec is
1.5 to 2.5 degrees. the shop told me that I have a bent spindle support on the right side. I have measured the spindle support and compared it to the left side and can not find any difference. This was not a problem before so I don't see why it should be now.
It doesn't seem to make sense to have the camber/caster adjustment adjusted all the way to one side even if this gets you within the correct range because if makes the grease seal on one sides useless.
Is there a way to compensate by installing the upper control arm offset so as to get the caster adjustment centered in the other end of the control arm.
By the way I found that shop had cut one of the grease seals out and when I removed the tires to check out the work I found the lug nuts were not tightened. Maybe my problem is just the shop
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,468
Likes: 1,548
From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
if your car is lowered in the front, or raised in the back, you can easily surpass any attempt to get proper caster angles.
One fix is to install a second set of 2 degree shim plates between theframe and cross member. My suspension can't be brought into spec due to the lowered height front coils and slightly raised rear, but it doesn't seem to cause any problems, maybe a bit of over steer, but I haven't tried it on a track to verify.
Doug
One fix is to install a second set of 2 degree shim plates between theframe and cross member. My suspension can't be brought into spec due to the lowered height front coils and slightly raised rear, but it doesn't seem to cause any problems, maybe a bit of over steer, but I haven't tried it on a track to verify.
Doug
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 652
From: Richmond VA
I checked the shims that are in the car and don't know how thick they should be. The shims that are in the car now are 7/32" thick in the front and 7/16" in the rear. Again the caster adjustment is all the way to the rear limit. What can I do to correct this and get the caster within spec and the adjustment closer to center in the upper control arm?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,615
Likes: 4,667
From: Mustang OK
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2025 c1 of the Year - Modified Winner
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
Clearly this shop DOES NOT know these old frontends very well!!!!!!!
This one is tooooooooooooooooooo easy! The lower control arms (us old codgers call them A-frames) are attached to the front cross member with 4 bolts/nuts. To add caster if the upper-outer shaft is screwed to the limit, then it needs to be screwed BACK to its center. Then, loosen ALL 4 nuts/bolts on the lower-inner shaft, gently pry the REAR of the shaft away from the cross member and insert a shim (thickness as required) between each of the two rear bolts. Tighten. Finish the caster adjustment with the upper-outer shaft. This method of adding just enough caster to make the front fall within specs is old as dirt for 49-54 pass cars and 53-62 Vettes (same exact frontend).
This one is tooooooooooooooooooo easy! The lower control arms (us old codgers call them A-frames) are attached to the front cross member with 4 bolts/nuts. To add caster if the upper-outer shaft is screwed to the limit, then it needs to be screwed BACK to its center. Then, loosen ALL 4 nuts/bolts on the lower-inner shaft, gently pry the REAR of the shaft away from the cross member and insert a shim (thickness as required) between each of the two rear bolts. Tighten. Finish the caster adjustment with the upper-outer shaft. This method of adding just enough caster to make the front fall within specs is old as dirt for 49-54 pass cars and 53-62 Vettes (same exact frontend).
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 652
From: Richmond VA
Thanks DZ, you have made me feel a lot better. I also sent you a private message asking you the same question but with a bit more detail. See below.
The caster is at .8 degrees and the spec calls for 1.5 to 2.5 degrees with the caster adjusted all the way to the rear. There is a shim between the crossmember and the frame that is 7/32" thick at the front and 7/16" thick at the rear. Do you have a suggestion on how much shim I will need under the lower inner shaft to get the adjustment correct? Is it correct that the shims will go on the rear side and can I buy shims or just make my own? I should also add that the right side camber is at 1.1 degree with a spec of -0.5 to 0.5.
By the way I'm a bit of an old codger too and would have refered to the control arm as an a-frame but I thought I might have some young wipper snapper read the post and get comfused.
The caster is at .8 degrees and the spec calls for 1.5 to 2.5 degrees with the caster adjusted all the way to the rear. There is a shim between the crossmember and the frame that is 7/32" thick at the front and 7/16" thick at the rear. Do you have a suggestion on how much shim I will need under the lower inner shaft to get the adjustment correct? Is it correct that the shims will go on the rear side and can I buy shims or just make my own? I should also add that the right side camber is at 1.1 degree with a spec of -0.5 to 0.5.
By the way I'm a bit of an old codger too and would have refered to the control arm as an a-frame but I thought I might have some young wipper snapper read the post and get comfused.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
