babbah

I need to replace rear/differential pinion oil seal on my C2. I will be doing this with the differential in the car.

In the 1967 Chassis manual page 4-35 it states that the front bolt on the carrier bracket has to be removed and in order to remove it you must drill a 3/4" hole in the floor well to remove the bolt...so you end up with a hole in the storage compartment...what do you do with the hole after?
Has anyone done this?

1. Also, Will I be able to remove the companion flange nut an washer while thie unit is in the car, will a breaker bar be able to loosen the nut after 40 years?

2. After the nut is off, will the flange come off easily? The manual says pound it forward with a brass drift...
I dont want to get into a bind while doing this so any helpful advice from ones that have done this is greatly appreciated. Thank You

67L36Driver

I did nothing because the jack well needed a drain anyway. Water ruined my Corvair jack.

#1----Yes. Find a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 4 ft long pipe cheater.
Mine was assembled with Loctite and was a B!@&$.
#2----Yes. Yoke is a slip fit.

Before removing the nut, use a ***** punch to mark the end of the pinion and nut so you can line them up again. Despite doing so I ended up with a "singer".

JohnZ

Don't forget to seal the end of the splines in the yoke (in the end where the nut and washer go) with Permatex #2 to plug that leak path; they didn't bother to add that tidbit in the Chassis Service Manual until 1971. Also, note that the flange on the new seal does NOT go solid against the nose of the diff casting - it needs a 1/8" gap all the way around.

wmf62

AND, put some sealer around the outside of the seal before driving it into the housing, it CAN leak around there too...
Bill

GTR1999

1-Get the car in the air to work on it.
2-Mark position of nut to pinion to try and maintain position of preload
3- Remove drive shaft
4- Hold yoke with home made tool or pipe wrecnh
5- use impact gun to remove nut
6- Yoke may come off by hand, brass drift, or smal 2 jaw puller if there is room.
7- Remove the old seal, reference if it is home or as the 1/8 gap between the housing end and seal flange. Some I found to have flangeless seals in them, found the counterbore wasn't machined deep enough and the seal flange would hit the yoke when installed giving a false reading. This was when rerbuilding a diff and setting preload with a dial torque wrench.
8-See if the bearing cone will come out for a quick inspection.
9- Lube bearing and replace
10- Use Ultra Black on the new seal OD, lube the seal ID with grease.
11- Install seal
12- check the yoke seal OD for grooves or pitting. If so then install a speedy sleeve kit. If you need one PM me.
13- Use #2 on the yoke splines
14- install yoke
15 check the thck washer for cracks, cupping- replace if needed
16- spray the threads of the pinion and nut with brake cleaner.
17- install old nut, use #271 red loctite on the threads and tighten to the marked spot.
18 - spin by hand to be sure there is no binding.
19- Try not to use the impact gun on the install as you might over crush the factory sleeve and change the preload.
20- check oil level
21 - lower car and test drive slowly .

Ok how's that, do I get the magazine job now? LOL!!!

babbah

GTR,
I plan to lift the car on a platform lift so the tires are on the platform, unraised... Can I try to loosen the nut without a tool on the yoke as the tries will hold the pinion firm as they will be down?

I sent you pm about the sleeve Thanks

All,

Thanks for the responses!!

GTR1999

This post should help you out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1236684
Gary

64roadster

I just finished this job. I used a 3' piece of 1" angle iron with two holes drilled in the end to hold the companion flange, piece a cake!