Kensmith

Looking for the easy way out. Yes, I know there is none and Bubba down the street can fix me right up BUT, I want to replace the body bushings and shims on my 65 coupe. I don't have a hoist. I was thinking of some other ways to lift the body with floor jacks and jack stands. Maybe just enough to remove the old and replace with new. I could also clean up the frame and paint it at the same time. Anybody done this? Suggestions? Photos? I have a Kwiklift so no problem getting it up high enough to work under it. The Kwiklift will get the car up off the ground about 30" for those who don't know what it is, it's a ramp type system you drive up on and then you can lift the rear of the ramp up and has pedestals to support the ramp. Good if you don't have room for a 2 or 4 post lift. Thanks!

wombvette

Frankly, I wouldnt even consider going to the trouble of lifting the body if I wasnt going to totally remove it. It is no more trouble to set it off and do both the frame and or the underside of the car. It is certainly easier to do that with the parts totally separated.

Kensmith

Wish I had the option of removing the body, but no room for a hoist or place to move the body and chassis. So I am looking for alternatives. Maybe lifting up a foot or so from underneath and using 2x4 blocks between the body and frame. If I did take the body off, I would restore the complete car and I don't want to do that again. I want to keep it a driver. Any ideas?

Corbrastang

You can do it with a floor jack. Unbolt all body mounts, front MC line, clutch cross shaft, steering coupler, loosen the ebrake cable to the max or take it off, and take loose the seat belt cables. then work your way around the car, jacking up on the birdcage underneath of the doors, one shim location at a time, . You will be safe on pretty much every location except for the number 3 location or the body mount that is accessed through the wheel well. You will have to slip your fingers into harms way there, so put a couple of jack stands under the birdcage incase the jack kicks out. of course, you could always borrow a lift as well, if you know anbody that has one. this is how i shimmed my car after putting the body back on-worked my way around time and time again until i had all the gaps as good as I could possibly make them. good luck.

kenEDMUNDS

Ken, I have done this several times just like Cobrastang described but you must take the bumpers and braces off as they pass through the body.
Ken

RJD42

Ken, I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I have only looked at the front and rear mounts and have taken the bolts out just to see if would come off without a problem and they did. Can someone tell me if it necessary to lift the entire body when all you need is the width of the new bushing. Is it possible to remove all the mounts and raise the body just enough to fit the new bushings in?

Kensmith

Sounds like it can be done from the posts. Just need a good technique in lifting and blocking between the frame and birdcage it would appear. Don't know why it wouldn't work. Bet a bunch of forum members have done it and have their secrets on how to do it. I know not everyone has a hoist available and extra room to separate the body from the frame. I think the main issues are brake and fuel lines. The other stuff should be fairly easy. Maybe some more members will chime in?

Corbrastang

Man, sorry i forgot about the bumper brackets-that could have caused you some serious problems-sorry!! Not sure if you will have to take the radiator out or not, you might be able to get away with leaving it in.

mikem350

IMHO the brake and fuel lines are not a problem. Everything ELSE mentioned above is!!!!

I soaked the pieces to help get 'em loose. See if there will be any "problem" bolts that are really frozen - this might persuade you to re-think your plan

kenEDMUNDS

If you jack the left front up with the line attached to the master cylinder there might be an issue-don't disconnect the line, just dismount the master and let it hang there. Radiator can stay in but disconnect the lower hose at the water pump, the top hose should flex enough unless you jack it up several inches. One more thing, disconnect the seat belt anchors from the frame.

Kensmith

Thanks guys............good stuff. I was thinking of using some 2"X4" blocks to go between the frame and birdcage once separated. Then I should be able to remove the old body bushings/shims and replace with new. Do you think I need to use long 2"X4"s to lift the body across the entire body or do one side at a time?