Zz383
#1
Zz383
I'm looking into putting a ZZ383 in my 66 SB vette. From my research, I will need to change my alternator brackets, run headers (Dports), and maybe change to a big block hood. Has anyone done this swap? Do you have any pictures? WHAT DOES THE STOCK ZZ383 sound like?
#2
Instructor
Dennis Beck put a zz383 in his 66 and has nothing but great things to say about the swap. He was a great help providing me with all the specifics needed to make the install. I am waiting for warmer weather to install my engine and TKO 600 so I can't be certain all the parts I have will work.
If Dennis doesn't see the post let me know and I'll dig up the info he provided me.
Larry
If Dennis doesn't see the post let me know and I'll dig up the info he provided me.
Larry
#3
Drifting
Here are some special situations we ran into.
1- The motor comes with no intake. I used an Edelbrock Vortec Performer to get under the small block hood. 750 Holley Street Avenger with my stock drop base air filter. 1/4" to spare at the closest point to the hood. I have since put a 66 BB Hood on the car and now am going to the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold.
2- The motor comes with a long nose water pump. You will need a short nose pump. I used an Edelbrock aluminum high flow pump. The clearence between the back of the pump and the timing chain cover is very tight. We had to grind just slightly the timing chain cover bolt heads to get the pump to set against the block to seal. No big deal.
3- Exhaust manifolds. Rams horns won't work. Even if they are port matched my machine shop said that there would not be enough material left for a proper seal. The driverside will be the problem in selecting headers. I looked for center dump block hugger headers. I was concerned about ground clearence. I tried Sanderson's but they hit my steering box. I then tried Patriot headers. They cleared although they are tight to the box as well. From there we cut my sidepipes and fabricated new stainless pipe and made our own collectors.
4- Mine is an AC car so my alternator is on the driverside. I only run an alternator/water pump belt. Found all the parts I needed from March.
5- I used a Centerforce II clutch. Must use their flywheel. I had to use an adjustable clutch rod.
6- I used an MSD 6AL ignition.
That's it! Not complicated at all.
Here it is just going in
Here it is in with some of the dress up items istalled.
Dennis
Last edited by Dennis Beck; 04-11-2007 at 07:28 AM.
#5
Pro
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St. Jude Donor '08
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Here is a picture of another Fast Burn 385 in a '66 coupe. It uses the same block as the ZZ383, I believe, except that mine did come with a GM Performance Parts intake. I didn't have adequate clearance with the stock small block hood so I installed a BB hood. FYI I am using an Edelbrock high performance fuel pump, but I did all of my own plumbing so "your mileage may vary..."
#6
Here is a picture of another Fast Burn 385 in a '66 coupe. It uses the same block as the ZZ383, I believe, except that mine did come with a GM Performance Parts intake. I didn't have adequate clearance with the stock small block hood so I installed a BB hood. FYI I am using an Edelbrock high performance fuel pump, but I did all of my own plumbing so "your mileage may vary..."
#7
Much like Dennis Beck, I have the GMPP ZZ383/425 in my '65, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Demon 750 carb, K&N Air cleaner with a 3" filter, MSD 6AL ignition, Zoops Serp system, Vintage Air a/c-heat, Edelbrock short water pump, DeWitt radiator, and Spal electric fan. I used HPC Block-Hugger headers, which cleared everything very nicely, with a custom exhaust into Dynamax Super-Turbo mufflers. The HPC headers only require the correct D-port gasket. I ran the ignition wiring with Billet Specialties looms, as I didn't like the original location behind the headers. The hood clearance is close, but no problem with the Edelbrock intake. I have the Keisler Tremec 5-speed with a 3:73 rear end. As Dennis says, the power and sound is big, the idle nice and lumpy, and it draws a crowd.
#9
Team Owner
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Location: Washington Michigan
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153 vs. 168 has nothing to do with "light" or "heavy" - the 153-tooth flywheel is 12-3/4" in diameter and accepts a 10.5" clutch, and that's the only flywheel/clutch that will fit in the stock 403 or 383 bellhousing. The 168-tooth flywheel is 14" in diameter, takes an 11" clutch, and won't fit in the stock bellhousing (requires a 444 or 621 bellhousing). Each one also requires a unique matching starter.
#10
153 vs. 168 has nothing to do with "light" or "heavy" - the 153-tooth flywheel is 12-3/4" in diameter and accepts a 10.5" clutch, and that's the only flywheel/clutch that will fit in the stock 403 or 383 bellhousing. The 168-tooth flywheel is 14" in diameter, takes an 11" clutch, and won't fit in the stock bellhousing (requires a 444 or 621 bellhousing). Each one also requires a unique matching starter.
#11
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I'd run the 403 bellhousing with the 153-tooth flywheel and 10.5" clutch - that was the original factory configuration, and it worked just fine.
#12
Instructor
There must be slight differences in the body height due to body sag or mount issues. My ZZ385 does not clear the sb hood with a 2" filter and a xtreme top. It barely hits but it does. I'm shopping a big block hood now. Phil
#13
Drifting
You could very well be right. I think each car might require something different when things get this close. Even the brand of motor mounts might make a difference. I have since gone to a 66 BB hood and I am getting ready to try fitting an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold under it. This is a press molded hood from Paragon. It's a Sermersheim hood. There was a LOT of work to get the hood to fit the car correctly in the end.
Dennis
Last edited by Dennis Beck; 04-11-2007 at 10:25 PM.