Best Battery Cut Off Switch - Do you really need one?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Best Battery Cut Off Switch - Do you really need one?
I have a 67 327/300hp auto with A/C, power steering, and power brakes. Should I install a battery cut-off switch, and if so what is the best style/make for my car? Thanks.
#2
Drifting
some choices
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch
I have one on the passengers side firewall which I can reach from the drivers seat. I would never drive a vette without one.
Boats require explosion proof switches so the quality is high.
I have one on the passengers side firewall which I can reach from the drivers seat. I would never drive a vette without one.
Boats require explosion proof switches so the quality is high.
#5
Safety Car
A cut-off switch of any type is really handy when you want to do some work on your Vette that requires disconnecting the battery. The knife switch is the best bet for the money, although OC-1 has a great idea in mounting the cut-off switch in the passenger compartment where it can be reached quickly in case of an emergency.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2005
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I, too, have battery cut-off switches in my "fun" cars. Beyond the potential for battery drain when not in regular use, the possibility of a power-related "event" lurks. Plus, if mounted inside the car in a hard-to-see location, as others have installed, it will slow down the buggers who might want to boost your ride.
I tried the "green ****" rotating cut-off switch, but found it somewhat less than telegraphic in whether the power was on or off.
So, I switched to the "key" type on/off device as illustrated below.
Whichever battery cut-off switch you choose, it will be a positive, precautionary action.
I tried the "green ****" rotating cut-off switch, but found it somewhat less than telegraphic in whether the power was on or off.
So, I switched to the "key" type on/off device as illustrated below.
Whichever battery cut-off switch you choose, it will be a positive, precautionary action.
Last edited by Cobra66; 05-16-2007 at 08:42 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 1999
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As others have stated, the knife blade style. Why use one? 30-40 year old wiring can cause fires. Have you seen any of the classic car fires posted on the web?
#9
Racer
I also have one I can reach from the drivers seat, I learned the hard way..
#10
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2006
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St. Jude Donor '08
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch
I have one on the passengers side firewall which I can reach from the drivers seat. I would never drive a vette without one.
Boats require explosion proof switches so the quality is high.
I have one on the passengers side firewall which I can reach from the drivers seat. I would never drive a vette without one.
Boats require explosion proof switches so the quality is high.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
#11
Le Mans Master
Here's the one I use. Remote push button operation. Simple and sweet. Mount a small push button included to the e-Brake braket above the handle.
Mount the solinoid in the engine compartment on the fender well.
If the link does not come up search part number "PRF-30205"
on Summit racing'' sweb site. Made by Painless. Works well.. and no big ugly handle..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Mount the solinoid in the engine compartment on the fender well.
If the link does not come up search part number "PRF-30205"
on Summit racing'' sweb site. Made by Painless. Works well.. and no big ugly handle..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; 02-10-2009 at 12:57 PM.
#12
Melting Slicks
I have a cut off switch on all my classics. I think its the only way to go. I use these.
http://www.closeoutsupply.com/Mercha...0001/14hsb.jpg
http://www.closeoutsupply.com/Mercha...0001/14hsb.jpg
#13
Burning Brakes
I finally put one on mine after getting a battery drain problem. I like it - pull in the garage, raise the hood, open the knife switch.
No battery drain and no worries from wiring mishaps - malfunctioning clock etc , possibly draining the battery.
Nice habit to get into.
No battery drain and no worries from wiring mishaps - malfunctioning clock etc , possibly draining the battery.
Nice habit to get into.
#14
Safety Car
I used one of those key type disconnect switches. For the convenience of an underhood installation and not having to pop the hood to operate the switch a remote push/pull manual choke cable was installed for driver side operation. Along with the car having 40+ year old original wiring the intention was to also have a quick means of cutting off battery power, if needed.
#15
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2002
Location: Hasbrouck Heights NJ
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I had a green **** on the positive side, hardly ever used it. Hope to have one of these in tonight:
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Brain-.../dp/B0006A1RZQ
It has a remote, also supposed to auto detect if you leave the lights on and cuts power.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Brain-.../dp/B0006A1RZQ
It has a remote, also supposed to auto detect if you leave the lights on and cuts power.
#16
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2001
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If you have a post top battery -
just wring the cable end on the battery and drive. When you get home, just twist off the cable and place it on the battery hold-down bolt. Just as effective and free. Have not had a problem with a bad connection for twenty years.
#18
Team Owner
You really don't need one but my car sits for days, even weeks, on end without being driven. With the Optima battery and the knife-style disconnect I am assured that it will start when needed.
#20
Le Mans Master
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For convenience, I use a green **** on the battery terminal for long term storage or to safely do electrical work on the car without the bother of unbolting the terminals.
For safety, my harnesses have (2) fusible links at the starter solenoid, (2) 60amp agu fuses at the 135amp alternator, a 50amp manual reset circuit breaker feeding the cabin, and a 40amp auto reset circuit breaker feeding the main dash harness.
For safety, my harnesses have (2) fusible links at the starter solenoid, (2) 60amp agu fuses at the 135amp alternator, a 50amp manual reset circuit breaker feeding the cabin, and a 40amp auto reset circuit breaker feeding the main dash harness.