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What brand of car lifts do you guys use?

Old 11-25-2007, 07:29 PM
  #41  
vstol
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I have 12 ft ceilings and leaning twds a 2 post lift with asymmetric arms. I have a 5” concrete floor, what’s the best anchor system and I would like to use it for the Suburban and truck as well so 9k or 10k. Thoughts?
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Old 11-25-2007, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by vstol
I have 12 ft ceilings and leaning twds a 2 post lift with asymmetric arms. I have a 5” concrete floor, what’s the best anchor system and I would like to use it for the Suburban and truck as well so 9k or 10k. Thoughts?
Wedge anchors! for the small amout of price difference I went with 10K lift. Might want to check lift out as it is exactly what you are asking about. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+two+post+lift
Feel free to PM with any questions.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:25 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by vstol
I have 12 ft ceilings and leaning twds a 2 post lift with asymmetric arms. I have a 5” concrete floor, what’s the best anchor system and I would like to use it for the Suburban and truck as well so 9k or 10k. Thoughts?

Floor may not be adequate. My AutoLifter installation instructions specified at MINIMUM a 6", 3,000 PSI, wire reinforced pour for the floor.
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:52 PM
  #44  
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thanks
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:52 AM
  #45  
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Default My All American Lift

Here's some pictures of the lift. In the first picture if the lift was lowered a few more inches the lock would be engaged and at a 90% angle to the post. You have this on all 4 posts. The 4 locks are controlled by a lever next to the control box. To dissengage the lock you would raise the lift about 4-6 inches, hold the control lever down and then lower the lift. My garage has a 10 foot ceiling. I'm about 5'8". If I raise the 67 to the ceiling I can walk around under it without ducking or banging my head. Hope this helps.

Shooter










Last edited by shooter1951; 11-27-2007 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Rotate picture
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:00 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by shooter1951
Here's some pictures of the lift. In the first picture if the lift was lowered a few more inches the lock would be engaged and at a 90% angle to the post. You have this on all 4 posts. The 4 locks are controlled by a lever next to the control box. To dissengage the lock you would raise the lift about 4-6 inches, hold the control lever down and then lower the lift. My garage has a 10 foot ceiling. I'm about 5'8". If I raise the 67 to the ceiling I can walk around under it without ducking or banging my head. Hope this helps.

Shooter



http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/PICT0142.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/PICT0146.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/PICT0145.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/PICT0144.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/PICT0143.jpg

The top photo (0142) is upside down. The amount of travel required to disengage the locks is ~2", not 4-6" as stated.
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Old 11-27-2007, 03:16 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
The top photo (0142) is upside down. The amount of travel required to disengage the locks is ~2", not 4-6" as stated.
Thanks Joe, I was still half asleep when I posted these. I didn't check it after I rotated it. You're right on the travel also, if you have all 4 locks (and cables) adjusted exactly the same you would only have to raise it 2". I ussually raise it about 4" then look underneath to be sure I can see all 4 locks in the down position. If the lift isn't adjusted right or if one of the locks don't disengage you'll know it pretty quick when that corner hangs up. Thanks again for the corrections.

Shooter
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:05 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
I have had a DirectLift 7000 lb 4 poster for about 5 years, and it has performed flawlessly. I have heard some of this same B.S. at shows, and it is usually coming from the Backyard Buddy guys. I guess that they can't even come close to competing on price, so they spread fear and false rumors. I am only aware of one lift failure, and it was caused by failure of the operator to pay attention. He was bringing down the car, and did not have the lock release fully depressed. It hung a lock on the way down on this one corner which allowed this cable to go slack. He realized what he had done after about a foot when the lift started twisting, and started back up with the lift. The cable had come off the pulley due to it going slack,and went along side the pulley bolt instead of the pulley groove. As he went back up, the tension of the cable snapped the bolt off which made that corner of the lift drop.

The manufacturer of this lift has since installed guard bolts on all their lifts to prevent the cables from coming out of the pulley. Lifts can be extremely dangerous if you do not pay attention to what you are doing, but operated properly, any of them will give you years of safe, trouble-free service. They do need service and adjustment on a regular basis. I have never seen a lift design that I would classify as unsafe, and I do not believe that Backyard Buddy is any safer than any other lift. They make a big deal about the lock blocks being welded on the majority of other lifts, but that is total B.S.! If welds are so unsafe, why do they weld so much of their lift together? Almost every lift on the market uses welded-on lock blocks except for them, and these lifts have a proven history of safe operation.

If you look at most lifts, you will see very little difference in most of them. They look like that all came off the same assembly line, and a lot of them did! The same exact design is used on at least 10 different name-brand lifts. The DirectLift 4 poster can be bought for less than $2000, and will include the casters, drip trays and jack bridge. I move mine from one shop to the other at my house on a regular basis, and the portablitiy is a great feature. Spen the extra money for aluminum ramps, as you will get tired of dragging the steel ones around pretty quick, if you use it a lot.

Regards, John McGraw



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Old 11-29-2007, 04:26 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 1BAD-LS1
I have the Superlift SR-7H in red. The SR-7H is the one made with USA steel and built in the States. Got it for myself for Christmas last year and used it a lot this season. To date - no complaints or problems. Here are a couple of pics.



How tall is your cieling and what is the dept of your garage?

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by toddalin
Floor may not be adequate. My AutoLifter installation instructions specified at MINIMUM a 6", 3,000 PSI, wire reinforced pour for the floor.
On the all american lifts website, the 10k lifts only specify 4" and 3000 psi. maybe they changed the specs.
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Old 11-29-2007, 06:49 PM
  #51  
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great thanks for all your comments
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bgrant_12002
On the all american lifts website, the 10k lifts only specify 4" and 3000 psi. maybe they changed the specs.
It could be because mine is Asymetric so it "loads" the base differently causing the base to torque out of the floor at an angle.

If you'll note their web site notes that the 10,000# clear floor does not come with Asymetric arms.

Actually, they gave me two sets of long and two sets of short arms so I can run it any which way and accomodate about any frame.

(Or maybe they were just more cautious when they were AutoLifters.)

Last edited by toddalin; 11-29-2007 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 11-29-2007, 08:00 PM
  #53  
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Mine is a Gemini GM 7000 also. It's made in Ft. Worth, Texas. I had to shop everywhere to find one made in the USA.

I've had it for a couple of weeks and I'm 100% satisfied.


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Old 11-30-2007, 01:24 PM
  #54  
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Default Car lift / hoist decision

2 post or 4 post:
- Decision is easy; if all you need is car storage space, buy the 4 post lift
- If you turn any of your own wrenches, 2 post is the only choice
- purchase an asyemtic lift which gives you more freedom on the placement of the car
- 9000 lb lift min capability

I have had a 2 post lift by Giro, made in Canada, for years - absolutely the best investment I ever made. I had a hard time deciding on a company lift until I found out that Giro offered an engine hoist I beam for the lift, this sold me. You would not believe how often I use the i beam to unload or lift items off the ground, capable of lifting 1000 lbs.

Sorry for the BIG picture, forgot how to adjust when inserting

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Old 11-30-2007, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by nvr-enuf
2 post or 4 post:
- Decision is easy; if all you need is car storage space, buy the 4 post lift
- If you turn any of your own wrenches, 2 post is the only choice
- purchase an asyemtic lift which gives you more freedom on the placement of the car
- 9000 lb lift min capability

I have had a 2 post lift by Giro, made in Canada, for years - absolutely the best investment I ever made. I had a hard time deciding on a company lift until I found out that Giro offered an engine hoist I beam for the lift, this sold me. You would not believe how often I use the i beam to unload or lift items off the ground, capable of lifting 1000 lbs.

Sorry for the BIG picture, forgot how to adjust when inserting


I disagree with your statement about only the two post will do if you turn your own wrenches. I have two of the 4-post lifts and I turn all my own wrenches. I have a couple of sliding plates that span the runners that I use when I want to have all four wheels in the air. I restored my 56 using a 4-post. there is plenty of open space between the runners to drop the transmission, replace the exhaust, completely remove the rear axle and springs, etc. In my case, I also use the both lifts to store my 56 and my 64. I've found that they spend a much greater time in the storage mode then in the wrenching mode. When I want to change the oil in my C5 or my Mercedes, it only takes a few minutes to drive one the the old vettes off and drive one of the newer cars on for the oil change.

The two post is easier to access the underside of the cars vs. the 4-post but really not that much. The four post lifts are narrower then the two post so they take up less room in your typical garage, don't require special concrete specs, don't have to be anchored to the floor, and you can store a car on the 4-post for long periods of time without stressing the suspension rubber, and, if the ceiling height is restricted, there is more room under the lift to place another vehicle as the wheels/tires aren't hanging down.
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Old 11-30-2007, 05:25 PM
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Please stop showing pictures of lifts. I spend hours on the INTERNET looking at them and i can not sleep at night
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Old 11-30-2007, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by piper
Please stop showing pictures of lifts. I spend hours on the INTERNET looking at them and i can not sleep at night
So "piper", since you have been a good person this year what would you like Santa to bring you for Christmas?
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Old 12-01-2007, 04:21 PM
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I now own a Backyard Buddy (now close to 15 years old )and a Gemini 4 Post lift now about 6 years old...PLUS an low level lift I use to do brake work with...

Never a bid of trouble with any of them...BUT the BYB I trust a lot more...

Sorry BUT I do wrench my cars and sold a 2 post lift to buy the BYB
I will admit its slightly harder to reach a shock mount with a 4 post lift but
that is a very small price to pay for the added practicality offered by the 4 poster.... ONLY thing I ever had trouble doing with the 4 poster was brake work...so I purchased a low level lift for doing that ..only thing I know is I hate to have to get down on my hands and knees to set the swing arms on the low level lift... LOL I'm getting old

Bob G.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:44 PM
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by steemin
I have a Rotary 4 post lift in my garage.

It was a little pricey but its my *** (or one of my other cars) under the lift
Scott
Exactly! Same thought and action here!
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