I have a chance at a 61
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a chance at a 61
I'll be checking it out personally next weekend. What should I be looking for, things that can affect value or wreck the sale? Here is what I know:
1- Red/white coves 1961, no hard top and the soft top needs replaced.
2- Has a 350 in it now, don't know if the owner has the original engine or if he's the original owner.
3- It needs "some body work", but the car is "driveable". I assume that means the car runs. Don't know where the body damage is. No price has been discussed as the car is not "officially" up for sale - yet.
I pretty much know my way around C2s when it comes to the gotchas, but have little knowledge on C1s. Where is the rust prone to collect both on the frame and on the body? Is there a VIN on the frame? I know there's a VIN tag on the steering column. What are the signs that this was an original fuelie vs. just the 283 engine w/carb? What about numbers on the tranny and diff, etc? Depending on the condition, this car may end up as a good NCRS restoration project or a resto-mod project for me or someone else.
Many thanks in advance and Happy New year to you all.
Islander
1- Red/white coves 1961, no hard top and the soft top needs replaced.
2- Has a 350 in it now, don't know if the owner has the original engine or if he's the original owner.
3- It needs "some body work", but the car is "driveable". I assume that means the car runs. Don't know where the body damage is. No price has been discussed as the car is not "officially" up for sale - yet.
I pretty much know my way around C2s when it comes to the gotchas, but have little knowledge on C1s. Where is the rust prone to collect both on the frame and on the body? Is there a VIN on the frame? I know there's a VIN tag on the steering column. What are the signs that this was an original fuelie vs. just the 283 engine w/carb? What about numbers on the tranny and diff, etc? Depending on the condition, this car may end up as a good NCRS restoration project or a resto-mod project for me or someone else.
Many thanks in advance and Happy New year to you all.
Islander
#3
Race Director
Frame rust would be most noticable anywhere behind the doors, less engine heat, more road splash, look at the inside of the main rails in the rear spring front mount.
Body: front fender and nose piece, most likely lots of patching was done in the past as they were all hit in front,a nd stuff glued back together, or replacement non press molded front end ahead of front wheel wells, look for patch seams anywhere on the lower inside of the body.
Front suspension, jack it up and check play, probably need a rebuild, especially if all covered in 2" of grease/dirt.
Get under and look at floor pan and tunnel from underneath, look for trauma/patching.
Body rust would be evident behind the kickpanels in the door hinge support area at the floor pan.
Look for frame cracks on the underside of the main rails just behind the cross member, take a good flash light, and wire brush. These can be welded up, but it is another project.
Measure wheelbase, it should be the same on both side.
And of course, door alignment and closing, soft top frame straightness.
Those are the expensive repairs that come to mind.
Doug
Body: front fender and nose piece, most likely lots of patching was done in the past as they were all hit in front,a nd stuff glued back together, or replacement non press molded front end ahead of front wheel wells, look for patch seams anywhere on the lower inside of the body.
Front suspension, jack it up and check play, probably need a rebuild, especially if all covered in 2" of grease/dirt.
Get under and look at floor pan and tunnel from underneath, look for trauma/patching.
Body rust would be evident behind the kickpanels in the door hinge support area at the floor pan.
Look for frame cracks on the underside of the main rails just behind the cross member, take a good flash light, and wire brush. These can be welded up, but it is another project.
Measure wheelbase, it should be the same on both side.
And of course, door alignment and closing, soft top frame straightness.
Those are the expensive repairs that come to mind.
Doug
#4
Racer
C-1 corvettes have rust issues but not like midyears. Look on the bottom and sides of the frame rail just forward of the kick ups where the frame starts up to go over the rear axle for rust (most common place). The VIN# is on the frame but it is hard to get to and even harder to read. It is located on the top of the frame rail under where the drivers seat would be. The gap there is only about 3/8" and you can try to put a mirror up to the bottom of the floor of the car and shine a light into the mirror to find this number. Look for "Major" body damage such as a total front end replacement or serious damage to the car in the cowl area. These are areas that are hard to fix and were rarely done right. Other than that if the price is right you can't go wrong with a C-1. They hold thier value really well.