Fuel Injection
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fuel Injection
im going to make the leap and get the fuelie unit for my 63
i dont know crap about these manual injectors, so i will be buying the book on it, any online site's i could look?
my question is that i have a 350 LT-1 block with some work, probaly close to 400hp, will this unit be ok?
where should i look? ebay? or does anyone have a site to look for one
thanks
i dont know crap about these manual injectors, so i will be buying the book on it, any online site's i could look?
my question is that i have a 350 LT-1 block with some work, probaly close to 400hp, will this unit be ok?
where should i look? ebay? or does anyone have a site to look for one
thanks
#2
Melting Slicks
Rochester Fuel Injection systems love vacuum. If you do not have a strong idle vacuum signal you will probably never get the unit to run right.
If you do not currently have a unit, be prepared for some sticker shock. At a minimum, I'd think you'll be looking at 6k for a running unit with a distributor. Possibly more. You'll also need an original or reproduction air cleaner, which could be another 2-5k depending.
I wish I could offer suggestions on where to find a unit. Mostly it is word of mouth or being in the right place at the right time. They come up on ebay from time to time but are priced high. Some of the rebuilders also have them available from time to time. Give John Degregory or Jerry Bramlett a call to see if they have or know of available units. Jack Podell might also have some but then you'd have to deal with him.
best rgrds.
If you do not currently have a unit, be prepared for some sticker shock. At a minimum, I'd think you'll be looking at 6k for a running unit with a distributor. Possibly more. You'll also need an original or reproduction air cleaner, which could be another 2-5k depending.
I wish I could offer suggestions on where to find a unit. Mostly it is word of mouth or being in the right place at the right time. They come up on ebay from time to time but are priced high. Some of the rebuilders also have them available from time to time. Give John Degregory or Jerry Bramlett a call to see if they have or know of available units. Jack Podell might also have some but then you'd have to deal with him.
best rgrds.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '07
Rochester Fuel Injection systems love vacuum. If you do not have a strong idle vacuum signal you will probably never get the unit to run right.
If you do not currently have a unit, be prepared for some sticker shock. At a minimum, I'd think you'll be looking at 6k for a running unit with a distributor. Possibly more. You'll also need an original or reproduction air cleaner, which could be another 2-5k depending.
I wish I could offer suggestions on where to find a unit. Mostly it is word of mouth or being in the right place at the right time. They come up on ebay from time to time but are priced high. Some of the rebuilders also have them available from time to time. Give John Degregory or Jerry Bramlett a call to see if they have or know of available units. Jack Podell might also have some but then you'd have to deal with him.
best rgrds.
If you do not currently have a unit, be prepared for some sticker shock. At a minimum, I'd think you'll be looking at 6k for a running unit with a distributor. Possibly more. You'll also need an original or reproduction air cleaner, which could be another 2-5k depending.
I wish I could offer suggestions on where to find a unit. Mostly it is word of mouth or being in the right place at the right time. They come up on ebay from time to time but are priced high. Some of the rebuilders also have them available from time to time. Give John Degregory or Jerry Bramlett a call to see if they have or know of available units. Jack Podell might also have some but then you'd have to deal with him.
best rgrds.
Bill
#7
Melting Slicks
Let me put it like this, it won't be fun to drive in normal traffic without a good idle signal. For me, there is nothing more embarrassing than a nice looking car that stalls at stop lights because you stopped feathering the gas, or that has to idle at 1200 for the same reason.
#9
Le Mans Master
I actually just checked on Jerry Bramlets website and he is saying the same thing - the 30-30 cam produces approx 12" of vacuum and the FI units work fine with that.
Matt, having heard your car you don't have as much lopeyness at idle as my '65 does with the stock 30-30 cam in it so I'd guess that whatever cam you have is not SO radical that vacuum level should be a too much of an issue if you wanted to add the FI unit and associated intake and distributor although to find and purchase one is going to cost you some serious big bucks!
#10
Race Director
No Problem,... Any Experts Here Own a FI Vette?
PS, turn your volumn up,,,
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...FIMOV00006.flv
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Vettesound.flv
for all of you early Vette owners the engine below is easily identified by the valve covers as a 1970 LT1 crate engine
What do ya think? If still in doubt ask any friends of Wally Knoch...
Last edited by Ironcross; 04-01-2008 at 11:12 PM.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
A LT1 short block is a excelent improvement for your FI dreams...It will idle nice and smooth and run like a MF...`er....
PS, turn your volumn up,,,
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...FIMOV00006.flv
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Vettesound.flv
for all of you early Vette owners the engine below is easily identified by the valve covers as a 1970 LT1 crate engine
What do ya think? If still in doubt ask any friends of Wally Knoch...
PS, turn your volumn up,,,
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...FIMOV00006.flv
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Vettesound.flv
for all of you early Vette owners the engine below is easily identified by the valve covers as a 1970 LT1 crate engine
What do ya think? If still in doubt ask any friends of Wally Knoch...
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
#13
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A couple of additional comments/observations. For those who do (or do not) know your FI units, there is one particular difference between the 57-63 and 64-5 FI units (there are multiple differences in fact, but one inparticular). The spring in the enrichment housing of the 64-5 units (7380) is not as strong as the 57-63 springs. Thus, the enrichment diaphragm (that's what moves the ratio lever) of the 7380 units require less manifold vacuum to override the spring and pull the ratio lever back to the lean stop (this is important for big profile cams with low vacuum).
The FI unit on my SB400 in the 56 is considerably modified, AND, it has the 57-63 style spring in the enrichment housing. Idle (at best) is about 900-950rpm in cool conditions, about 1000rpm in hot weather.
For years I had the 57 style air cleaner on the unit. I always KNEW that it needed cooler outside air so that it would have better idle qualities (FI units DO NOT like heat!!!). This became apparent during very hot weather/conditions when I opened the hood and it immediately began to run better. Finally, after several years, I acquired (don't ask, 'cause I won't tell) a 57 Airbox. With the Airbox in place, and it can now suck in cooler outside air, it is considerably better behaved.
So, bottom line. An FI unit CAN run/idle OK (well, so-so) if you have a BARE MINIMUM of 10-11in vacuum. It NEEDS to have cooler outside air plumbed to the air meter.
Also, FI units are sooooooooooooooo much better (especially for street driving) if a vacuum advance distributor is used. I had a 62 (mechanical advance ONLY) dist with my unit form many years (and always suspected it would run/idle better with a vac adv dist. Finally added a 65 dist with vac adv, and it became MUCH MORE agreeable for street driving!
The FI unit on my SB400 in the 56 is considerably modified, AND, it has the 57-63 style spring in the enrichment housing. Idle (at best) is about 900-950rpm in cool conditions, about 1000rpm in hot weather.
For years I had the 57 style air cleaner on the unit. I always KNEW that it needed cooler outside air so that it would have better idle qualities (FI units DO NOT like heat!!!). This became apparent during very hot weather/conditions when I opened the hood and it immediately began to run better. Finally, after several years, I acquired (don't ask, 'cause I won't tell) a 57 Airbox. With the Airbox in place, and it can now suck in cooler outside air, it is considerably better behaved.
So, bottom line. An FI unit CAN run/idle OK (well, so-so) if you have a BARE MINIMUM of 10-11in vacuum. It NEEDS to have cooler outside air plumbed to the air meter.
Also, FI units are sooooooooooooooo much better (especially for street driving) if a vacuum advance distributor is used. I had a 62 (mechanical advance ONLY) dist with my unit form many years (and always suspected it would run/idle better with a vac adv dist. Finally added a 65 dist with vac adv, and it became MUCH MORE agreeable for street driving!
Last edited by DZAUTO; 04-02-2008 at 08:52 AM.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '07
Bill, the '64 & '65 FI cars came stock with the 30-30 cam, same as the cam in the L76 365hp motor. This cam typically only produces between 11"-13" of vacuum at idle so the FI units must work well enough at that low of a vacuum or i'd venture a guess that GM wouldn't have been using that cam with the FI motors.
I actually just checked on Jerry Bramlets website and he is saying the same thing - the 30-30 cam produces approx 12" of vacuum and the FI units work fine with that.
I actually just checked on Jerry Bramlets website and he is saying the same thing - the 30-30 cam produces approx 12" of vacuum and the FI units work fine with that.
anyway, my 62 unit on a stock 70 LT1 wants to naturally idle at about 1000 rpm at about 15" vacuum, and goes down the road at 11 to 15. i do know, from my experience, that the less vacuum you have, the lousier the street manners are..
Tom's comment about a weaker enrichment spring in the 64 - 65 units may have something to do with their better idle characteristics at lower vacuum
Bill
Last edited by wmf62; 04-02-2008 at 04:54 AM.
#16
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#18
Race Director
#19
Racer
Lt-1
I ran a LT-1 cam in a few motors with my '63 FI and it is awesome.
You can idle it as low as you like. Pulls strong, but fades at high rpm, like above 6400 and up. It will spin higher, and sound great, but I feel you run short of CFM capacity. I am putting together a 353 ( 4.155 X 3.25 ) which can really spin upthere, and I need a lot more cfm capacity. I'm considering dual airmeters or boring out my air meter a bit. Something to get a little more air flow.
Did'nt mean to get off topic, but you will love the FI unit on top of a LT-1 motor!!
You can idle it as low as you like. Pulls strong, but fades at high rpm, like above 6400 and up. It will spin higher, and sound great, but I feel you run short of CFM capacity. I am putting together a 353 ( 4.155 X 3.25 ) which can really spin upthere, and I need a lot more cfm capacity. I'm considering dual airmeters or boring out my air meter a bit. Something to get a little more air flow.
Did'nt mean to get off topic, but you will love the FI unit on top of a LT-1 motor!!
#20
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15
took this photo of a EFI in a 1960 Vette....so if it was available to be put in that one it should be available to put in a 63 no problem....