Pilot Dan

As one of my fall projects, I wanted to restore my '59 Oil filter cannister by R&R with fresh paint and graphics. I had another cannister done and was just going to swap it out when I found some differences. Got the cup out of the 59 can (pictured first) and noticed the bolt has only 1 ear on it and it will not pass all the way out of the can without persuation once everything is removed. The bolt head has no markings (plain). The #2 restored cannister has an AP head mark and also only has only one ear on the bolt to hold the cup (pictured second). BUT the cup is differnent and only has ONE SLOT. OK, so I go to the #3 tie braker, a boxed NOS 141 GM cannister I have from late 70's and it HAS 2 EARS on the bolt BUT NO removal notches on the cup So, what gives??? The retaining ears on the bolt seem to be formed by a factory staking process. I got can #1 apart (except for the bolt), so how is this SUPPOSED to come apart in reality and more importantly, how does it go back together??

So here are the questions:

1. Should there be 1 or 2 ears on the bolt holding the cup inside the cannister?? It would appear my NOS can will not come apart (has 2 ears on the bolt)

2. Should the long bolt be able to come completely out of the can once it is loose to change the copper washer (mine won't unless I force it and probably brake the ear off) ?

3. What is the correct bolt head marking for a 59?
I have a plain bolt which I know came with the 59 motor as received and 2 other cans with AP bolt markings from other later sources. Did these vary between 59 and 67?? Don't see any guidance in the judging manuals or anywhere else for that matter on variations.





Would like to get the vendor kit and rebuild my original once I get this cleared up. Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving to all. Pilot Dan

Pilot Dan

Anybody taken one of these apart to install the rebuild kit???

1955 copper

There was more then one supplier to GM (that's the difference )
Also the markings on the bolt some "AP" "O" "M" and others none . Good luck because you'll get to many different ideas from members!

speedyc5

I just checked my original '62 can. It has one ear and the head of the bolt is marked "M". Don't imagine that helps you much though.

Was the ear(ears) there just to hold the assembly together before it was installed?? You know, much like the clips to hold the brake drums on during assembly.

Pilot Dan

It looks to me as though the factory swedged the ear from a portion of the bolt itself during production (which seems to make it impossible to remove when rebuilding). Your "M" is a marking I have not seen to far. The AP markings for the canister bolt seem to start after 62 as far as I have seen. My 59 has NO head marking on the bolt at all. My 64 and the later NOS GM canister both bear the AP head marks.

The ear is used to hold the assembly together by rotating the inner cup 90 degrees to catch the pin in a slot. Without that, all the parts would fall out when the bolt was loostened at the next oil change. The cans I have examined range over a production period of about 20 years and hence the different variations. There still does not appear to be any published guidelines as to the bolt markings relative to year of production though so I guess the judges will accept all. Pilot Dan

Powershift

The can on my 1967 Corvette (late March 67 build) has the "M" bolt marking. According to NCRS folks I talked to, this is an accepted marking. "AP" is very common, and is the bolt headmark used for the restoration cans.....so the NCRS judges like to see the "M" since it is known original.

I have a Paragon repro can on my car now, and am having the original rebuilt by Ken Hansen of Orindales. He has an excellent reputation for his work. Will let you know how it turns out. Everyone before me has been very happy.

Larry

Pilot Dan

I would be interested in knowing how the restored inside looks if you could post a picture. Thanks for the reply. Dan

Powershift

Pilot5970:

Received my restored oil filter can yesterday from Ken. It is gorgeous....a work of art.

Since I still shoot photos with my Nikon 35mm, I will have to describe the final product rather than post a photo.

The outside was repainted in the correct semi-gloss black. Silkscreen logo is perfect and very slightly raised letters....maybe 1/64 inch or so. You can feel it with your hand.

The center bolt, filter support, and spring, etc was removed. Ken apparently put the bolt in a lathe and cut off the retaining ears and cut a small circular groove in the bolt shaft. He then installed a small snap ring to hold everything together. Nice!! This way if you want to disassemble later, you can use a snap ring tool to remove the clip and access the internal parts.

The bolt and the filter support/end cap were replated. The inside of the can was bead blasted.

Everything works/slides smoothly. Two week turnaround. Contact is Ken Hansen of Orindales Restorations in Medina, Tenn. Phone (731) 783-0815.

Larry

Pilot Dan

Larry thanks for confirming the assembly process. I looked at the rebuild kit and apparently that is how it's done. Pilot Dan