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Heat Riser Problem..

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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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Default Heat Riser Problem..

My heat riser is sticking from time to time. I was thinking of wiring it open. What effects will this have other than taking longer to warm up??
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by prestige6
My heat riser is sticking from time to time. I was thinking of wiring it open. What effects will this have other than taking longer to warm up??
I live in a cold climate also ..my heatriser has always been a problem , since 98% of my driving ( 800/900 ) seasonally , I actually cut the guts out of mine .......... But before doing that , bought a new heat riser & but it got sticky after a couple of years.......... My 66 is a BB & I occasionally run the 1/4 mile, Oldies day at the local strip 13.13 ET I have stock side exhaust & no hedders, It can ( no heat riser) take longer to idle smooth on a cold day & maybe stumble a llittle till she warms up, My cure, I install a 190 deg thermostat in October & dont go back to a 180 till may for the occassional drives I take on nice days in the fall & spring ( have never had an overhreating problem ) ....so what i am saying is Yes, wire her up you wont hurt anything ...................... My moto" Driveum dont waxum "....The Dog

Last edited by StrayDog; Nov 29, 2008 at 09:42 AM. Reason: bad spellin
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by prestige6
My heat riser is sticking from time to time. I was thinking of wiring it open. What effects will this have other than taking longer to warm up??
You will get some hesitation when opening the throttle during the cold months. May spit back some so keep your air cleaner installed.

I wire mine open in the spring and remove the wire in the fall. Wiggle it open/shut to keep the shaft clear of deposits.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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I wired mine open and no problems. But I live in California and don't drive unless it's at least 50* out.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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Default Heat riser

I'm right across the river from you in Putnam County. I wired mine open a few years ago after going through 2 right side mufflers, and haven't looked back since. If it's a little on the cool side, I just let it warm up for an extra minute or so. The only thing I have noticed is that it takes about 10 minutes for the choke to open instead of 2 or 3. No spitting, no bucking, no nothing !!!


RON

Last edited by rongold; Nov 29, 2008 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by prestige6
My heat riser is sticking from time to time. I was thinking of wiring it open. What effects will this have other than taking longer to warm up??
The biggest effect I believe you'll see is much longer right side muffler and exhaust system life, especially if you do very much short trip driving. Lots of us have already wired the heat riser valve open permanently. Or, replace it with the spacer used on FI cars . . .

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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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I guess I don’t understand how the system works. How does it affect muffler life? Maybe I should wire mine open. Cold weather is not an issue for me too.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 67sunfireyellow
I guess I don’t understand how the system works. How does it affect muffler life? Maybe I should wire mine open. Cold weather is not an issue for me too.
It affects muffler life, especially during short trips when the right side doesn't have time to fully heat the exhaust system back through the muffler, by allowing by-products of combustion to collect with the water vapor inside the muffler. This effectively rots it out from the inside.

By allowing the exhaust to flow through the right side when wired open, most of the corrosive acids and products are carried through the exhaust system, same as happens normally on the left side which is open all the time.

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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron Miller
It affects muffler life, especially during short trips when the right side doesn't have time to fully heat the exhaust system back through the muffler, by allowing by-products of combustion to collect with the water vapor inside the muffler. This effectively rots it out from the inside.

By allowing the exhaust to flow through the right side when wired open, most of the corrosive acids and products are carried through the exhaust system, same as happens normally on the left side which is open all the time.

Ron,
Thanks. I learned something today. I think I’ll wire mine open. But how do you know which position is open? Chet
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 67sunfireyellow
Ron,
Thanks. I learned something today. I think I’ll wire mine open. But how do you know which position is open? Chet
When the engine is cold, the spring loaded valve will have the weight up and out to the side. That is the closed position.

You can push on it then, it will go down to fully open, but will spring back up to the closed position when released. Just push it down to the open position and wire it there, fully opened.

You might also want to disconnect the battery before starting any wiring in this vicinity, it's pretty close to the "hot" starter terminal, and it's not too difficult to get the wire into the terminal while fishing it around the exhaust pipe. Ask me how I know this . . . .


Last edited by Ron Miller; Nov 30, 2008 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Further info . . .
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:58 AM
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I used aircraft quality, stainless steel safety wire to hold mine open permanently. Bear in mind, after an extended period of being wired open the riser will probably be stuck open for good.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 67sunfireyellow
Ron,
Thanks. I learned something today. I think I’ll wire mine open. But how do you know which position is open? Chet
Moving the counter weight closer to the block opens it. Assuming the valve is closed when the motor is cold, moving the weight so the shaft turns 90 degrees will mean the "flapper" is fully open - parallel to the sides of the manifold.

larry
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Thanks everyone, I think I'll wire mine open today. Chet
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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I have a 71 AC car that spews heavy vapor on the right side and nothing to speak of on the left
(not smoke but vapor) side even after a 15 minute idle. Could a stuck control valve cause this? Its bothersome to see. Thanks
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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http://www.etvette.com/heatrisers.htm

Make sure all call as the email address is not correct on his site. Nice guy too BTW..



Last edited by mscaggs; Jan 7, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Mine is so rusty is just stays open by it's self once I put it on that position
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Default Remove heat riser

I had my sticking heat riser removed ('67 BB) - no terrible thing has happened.

Vetterway
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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I just cut the flap out of mine yesterday, removed the spring and weight/flapper and welded up the hole. Too many potential problems leaving it in.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SLWRNU
I just cut the flap out of mine yesterday, removed the spring and weight/flapper and welded up the hole. Too many potential problems leaving it in.
For 20 bucks I just ordered the spacer and called it good.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by prestige6
My heat riser is sticking from time to time. I was thinking of wiring it open. What effects will this have other than taking longer to warm up??
IMO none.

It will not take longer to warm up either. All a properly operating heat riser does is send
more heat under the carburetor to assist earlier vaporization in cold weather. The engine
warms up at the same rate.

With today's fuels, I believe the heat riser is unnecessary, and I took the blocking plate
out of my heat riser about 15 years ago. I also blocked off the intake manifold ports that
send hot exhaust to the base of the carb.

My car starts and runs fine even in single digit cold weather in Illinois, Wisconsin,
Colorado, and Montana, and I have the choke in my carburetor disconnected.
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