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66 Air Cleaner to Hood Clearance

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Old 03-24-2009, 11:39 AM
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54greg
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Default 66 Air Cleaner to Hood Clearance

In an effort to help with my fuel perk problem I installed a 1/2" spacer. Thus the air cleaner to hood clearance is reduced to 1/2". Does this pose any problems? Thanks Greg
Old 03-24-2009, 01:28 PM
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Five Window
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Mine's closer than that and never had a problem.
Old 03-24-2009, 05:52 PM
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kbuhagiar
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Originally Posted by 54greg
In an effort to help with my fuel perk problem I installed a 1/2" spacer. Thus the air cleaner to hood clearance is reduced to 1/2". Does this pose any problems? Thanks Greg
54greg,

Just curious, did the spacer eliminate the percolation problem? What kind of spacer did you use?
Old 03-25-2009, 12:56 PM
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54greg
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The spacer is a moroso 1/2" fiber spacer. I have not had a chance to get the car out of the garage yet. Hopefully I'll get it out in the next few days and will post the results. Thanks for the feedback!

Greg
Old 03-25-2009, 01:31 PM
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magicv8
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Originally Posted by 54greg
In an effort to help with my fuel perk problem I installed a 1/2" spacer. Thus the air cleaner to hood clearance is reduced to 1/2". Does this pose any problems? Thanks Greg
Only if the left engine mount fails and has nothing to retain the lift caused by engine torque. I used a restraining bolt in the left mount to guarantee my air cleaner or alternator bracket doesn't have to help restrain the engine.


In 20 years I have had 2 left side failures and I also got the car with a broken mount. It's not uncommon. The gap in the restraining tab on the replacement mount shown in the pictures is large enough to permit hood or shroud damage (ask me how I know). The "correct" style mounts have no restraining tab at all.

Last edited by magicv8; 03-25-2009 at 01:34 PM.
Old 03-25-2009, 11:35 PM
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Thanks for the idea re the left motor mount
Old 03-26-2009, 06:44 PM
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magicv8
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Originally Posted by 54greg
Thanks for the idea re the left motor mount
There's a freeze plug recess above the place I inserted the bolt. One mount plate is threaded and gets a thin locknut. The other plate and the rubber filler are then drilled slightly larger to allow the bolt to float. I left the head of the bolt about 1/8 above the plate, which is then as high as the mount can let the engine rise.
Old 03-26-2009, 07:02 PM
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Hmmmm. Do you know if replacement mounts are higher than the factory design?

Reason being I tried a thick gasket on my L36 coupe and spider-webbed the middle of the power bulge when I dropped the hood... (hit the air cleaner). Also the wing nuts from the dizzy shielding mashes up against the back of the hood support causing the plug wires to short into the shielding. Had to take the AC "V" spacers out to solve the problem - that was after I replaced the engine mounts with aftermarket units 'cause the originals had separated... the aftermarket mounts MUST be higher by about 1/2...



Originally Posted by magicv8
Only if the left engine mount fails and has nothing to retain the lift caused by engine torque. I used a restraining bolt in the left mount to guarantee my air cleaner or alternator bracket doesn't have to help restrain the engine.


In 20 years I have had 2 left side failures and I also got the car with a broken mount. It's not uncommon. The gap in the restraining tab on the replacement mount shown in the pictures is large enough to permit hood or shroud damage (ask me how I know). The "correct" style mounts have no restraining tab at all.
Old 03-26-2009, 11:35 PM
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Good news and bad news. The good news-Yes the 1/2" spacer did solve my fuel perk problem. The intake was hot to the touch and the float bowls were nice and cool. The bad news- when the motor torqued it moved enough for the air cleaner to rub on the hood. Too close. Had to remove the spacer and so I'm back with my fuel perk problem.
Old 03-27-2009, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 66L36Coupe
Hmmmm. Do you know if replacement mounts are higher than the factory design?

Reason being I tried a thick gasket on my L36 coupe and spider-webbed the middle of the power bulge when I dropped the hood... (hit the air cleaner). Also the wing nuts from the dizzy shielding mashes up against the back of the hood support causing the plug wires to short into the shielding. Had to take the AC "V" spacers out to solve the problem - that was after I replaced the engine mounts with aftermarket units 'cause the originals had separated... the aftermarket mounts MUST be higher by about 1/2...
New or old body mount bushings? I don't know if the rubber in the original motor mounts will collapse or not but pancaked body mount bushings will lower the body closer to the frame.

larry
Old 03-27-2009, 09:08 AM
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Are you running the 10% blend ethanol fuel? If you run that gas when it is hot out it will run like crap. Have you tried running premium?
Old 03-27-2009, 11:17 AM
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Always run premium, but unfortunately I believe it is the 10% blend.
Old 03-27-2009, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 54greg
Good news and bad news. The good news-Yes the 1/2" spacer did solve my fuel perk problem. The intake was hot to the touch and the float bowls were nice and cool. The bad news- when the motor torqued it moved enough for the air cleaner to rub on the hood. Too close. Had to remove the spacer and so I'm back with my fuel perk problem.
Try using 2 gaskets under the carb with a polished stainless/aluminum sheet metal shield between them. If you have an AFB there is a 65 stainless shield that works. If you have a Holley, I think there is a c3 sheet metal shield for one.

Originally Posted by 66L36Coupe
Hmmmm. Do you know if replacement mounts are higher than the factory design?

Reason being I tried a thick gasket on my L36 coupe and spider-webbed the middle of the power bulge when I dropped the hood... (hit the air cleaner). Also the wing nuts from the dizzy shielding mashes up against the back of the hood support causing the plug wires to short into the shielding. Had to take the AC "V" spacers out to solve the problem - that was after I replaced the engine mounts with aftermarket units 'cause the originals had separated... the aftermarket mounts MUST be higher by about 1/2...
The mounts I use (from NAPA) have 1-23/32 inches (1.72inches) between the center of the cross bolt slot and the mounting face for the engine pads.

Last edited by magicv8; 03-28-2009 at 12:49 PM.
Old 03-27-2009, 03:14 PM
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Jims66
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Originally Posted by 54greg
Good news and bad news. The good news-Yes the 1/2" spacer did solve my fuel perk problem. The intake was hot to the touch and the float bowls were nice and cool. The bad news- when the motor torqued it moved enough for the air cleaner to rub on the hood. Too close. Had to remove the spacer and so I'm back with my fuel perk problem.
You could try a shorter air filter element 14x2.5 (someone must make one that size, or close to it) and keep the .5 inch spacer........ Just a thought.
Old 03-27-2009, 05:56 PM
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magicv8
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Here's the official Holley heat shield and 2 gaskets http://www.amazon.com/Holley-108-70-.../dp/B00062YTRC

I would still tie down that mount. Are you sure it's not cracked?
Old 03-30-2009, 07:21 PM
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Hey! Just wondering if you switching to premium yet to see if that got rid of that perk problem. Could save you alot of headaches. I completely went through a Holley double pumper thinkin I had a problem and it never changed a thing!! I switched to premium when it was hot out and that took car of it. I can get away with it when it is cooler out, but when it is 80 degrees plus out, no way. Anyway,,just checkin. ---Chad---Goodluck!
Old 03-30-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 54greg
Good news and bad news. The good news-Yes the 1/2" spacer did solve my fuel perk problem. The intake was hot to the touch and the float bowls were nice and cool. The bad news- when the motor torqued it moved enough for the air cleaner to rub on the hood. Too close. Had to remove the spacer and so I'm back with my fuel perk problem.

If 1/2" was too tall, maybe 0.32" will work. These are made to do what you want to do.


"These Edelbrock heat insulator gaskets are designed to help prevent fuel percolation in Performer series carburetors exposed to extreme underhood temperatures. They're available in both open and ported styles, and come complete with extended-length carburetor studs."

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

BTW, you can usually also mill a little off the top of the manifold if you really need to.

Last edited by toddalin; 03-30-2009 at 09:14 PM.
Old 03-31-2009, 11:13 AM
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Default air cleaner

i dont know if you want to keep stock or not, but, edlebrock makes triangular foam cleaner. not the best, but hey... it is the lowest aircleaner i have found. you may have to roto the bottom flange off but it will fit nice and tight and i even turn mine 90 degrees to have it long and narrow in line with hump in hood. cheap and easy fix. i have air gap intake and that is what throws me into the hood... no room for any other type of air filter....

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