hotzip

After a short time of putting on high beams the all headlights start to blink off and on as well as the indicator light in the dash. Doesn't impact any other lights. Checked the grounds, wiring connections and add some additional grounds also bypassed the light switch and still have the problem. Once it starts to blink the wiring starts to heat up. Any thoughts???

Vette_DD

Yes. Try posting this question in the C1 & C2 General Discussion area. I'll bet they can help you.

capevettes

I would install a new dimmer switch.

drivette

landshark 454

You may need a new headlight switch. There is a thermal circuit breaker built into the switch, since there no fuses for the headlights. when this goes bad, the lights will go off after heating up for a while. Then it cools down, and they come on again, until heating up. I have seen this many times. Since it does it on high beam, it could be a bad dimmer, but is most likely the extra load of 4 lights on that triggers the problem.

When changing the switch, check the connections on the switch, and on the dimmer switch also. Look for any sign of heating up at the connectors, like melted plasstic, or discolored terminals.
This would mean a bad connection, and both the part, and the connector, or spade should be replaced, or the problem may reoccur. Headlights pull a good deal of current.

wmf62

Bill

1snake

X2

Frankie the Fink

I just went through this whole deal about 7 days ago. Even my brand new headlight switch 'strobed' on high beam.

You can do the troubleshooting suggested above but most likely you have higher power headlights than stock and they just draw too much current for the switch and the switches weren't that great to begin with. Its best to add relays for this issue (as have I, wmf62, plasticman and many others). A VERY common problem and many Internet articles about it.

Here is the relay (you will need two for lo/hi beam) that I used and have been running high/low beam for a week now with no issues and same old headlight switch.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062477.
A 20AMP ATC blade fuse is added in place of the flaky headlight thermal switch using a weatherized fuse holder:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102781


If you do this then you can run Halogens or whatever easily. I have a wiring diagram (courtesy of plasticman) but mounted my setup a little differently. A 2-hour job if you take beer breaks...

In addition you will have much brighter lights as the current drop in the wiring is greatly reduced: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/4417/index.html

hotzip

Thanks for the info - I'm a new first time owner. With the stroping I figure a thermal switch was overheating somewhere, tried finding it with no luck, makes sense now that there's one built into the switch. I did pull the light switch and jump power directly to the headlights - same problem so I think the switch is ok. I have already ordered a new dimmer switch and will try the relay option. If all else fails I'll do a three and replace the switch.

kellsdad

I first experienced something like this in 1967 when I replaced the high beams in my Pontiac with aircraft landing lights. They would turn the night into day for a a minute or two, but then the flashing would begin. The flashing was a safe way to signal that too much power was being drawn without leaving me completely in the dark at 60 MPH.

Frankie the Fink

I don't know what you jumpered but if you got the load off the switch then no way you should still have the thermal cutout activated.

The relays only require about 0.1 amp to operate each one versus the 14+ amps the headlights normally draw through the switch.

hotzip

Jumped the lead for incoming power on the wiring plug to the lead going to the dimmer switch and the problem remained. Still acts like a thermal cutoff issue. Not sure it a weak or defective dimmer switch can create the same overload affect -will see when I install the new dimmer switch.

Frankie the Fink

You might indeed have a bad switch then...

my58

Here is another option for the relays. (link below) This kit is very high quality and contains everything you would need. I did not want to cut my wire harness so I made a connector that pluged into 1 of the existing headlight connectors to controll the relay and then made a new headlight harness from the relays to power and the bulbs.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

Frankie the Fink

Likewise I did not cut my original harness...and my cost after buying rolls of wire, etc. were probably along the same lines as the kit in the link provided (remember that TWO relays are needed though).

wmf62

wuss.... i can't see that adding the relays is anything you would ever want to undo...
Bill

Frankie the Fink

The original spade connectors on the stock wires going to the dimmer switch plugged right onto the new relays....so why would I cut anything ? I put some shrinkable tubing on them and soldiered on....

The hi-amp 12V comes off a terminal at the horn relay nearly directly from the battery...again no cutting required...just added a wire.

You have to practically do a somersault over the passenger fender to see the relays down under the washer fluid tank; so my mod is nearly undetectable...and original harness intact...no extra effort at all.

wmf62

Frank
you're certainly brave, putting all that electrical stuff under the washer fluid tank... (and hard to get at...)
Bill

Frankie the Fink

Take 1 screw out of the splash pan and tilt it down and everything is right there....more room to work than around the radiator core support IMO. I mounted the relays working with a cordless screwdriver up in there quite easily.

And if the washer fluid should somehow leak (doubtful) and cause a problem then it better never rain! Besides that's what fuses are for (now there is a non-wuss statement!).

wmf62

Bill