Originally Posted by SIXTSVN

Having the same problem too, I was wondering if this could be as simple as a bad gauge or sending unit?

Originally Posted by wombvette

If you chart the viscosity of oil from cold to hot, you will find that there is very little real difference in viscosity of oils at higher temperatures. The hot viscosity makes little difference in hot oil pressures. Single weight oils make little difference either. The only difference in them is the rate of change. Multi weights start out thinner, cold , and just don't change as fast with temperature. When they all get hot they are all thin.

When my 31 and 33 Cadillacs were new, there was a recommendation to add a quart of kerosene to the oil for ultra cold temperature operation, so I guess adding MMO to the oil would not hurt anything since that's what most of those snake oil products are. But they were dealing with mineral oils. Modern oils are much better, especially cold, so I wouldn't recommend the Kerosene thing. Just use a good multi weight and forget it or change the pump.

Originally Posted by GCD1962

MMO has been a proprietory blend for well over 80 years. It is not Kerosene based. MMO does a great job in keeping everything inside the engine clean with not sign of wear (especially true for my older cars. Engine in the '40 Chev, nearly 70 years old has no ridge, no buildup and is super clean. All that said. My '62 with LT-1 Short Block with Rotella 15-40. is over 70lbs pressure at start up and even after warmed up in hot weather runs around 60 lbs at 70+ mph. At idle maybe down to 30-35. It's always run this way and I've never had a problem. Block has over 35k miles with no signs of any wear. I wouldn't worry about the pressure.