'66 Alum Intake Proper Restoration
#1
Racer
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'66 Alum Intake Proper Restoration
The intake manifold went into the bath today and the orange
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.
My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450
My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.
What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?
Thanks...
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.
My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450
My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.
What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?
Thanks...
#2
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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I just finished a 57 2X4 intake and had it glass beaded. It looks like new. After that I sprayed it with a rattle can of high heat clear, and it resulted in a dull sheen thats easy to clean, cheers Rob
#4
Racer
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I just read an article from the '66 NCRS DVD that said no matter how
much you clean the alum. intake it will still look dirty. Their solution was
to thin out a matt/dull alum. paint that they recommend and use a
brush to work a bit of paint in the pores of the alum. to freshen it up.
I would hate to use any paint and especially just a little. It will look
like it needs a complete coating and will be too tempting.
There must be an alum. polishing process with clear coating that works.
much you clean the alum. intake it will still look dirty. Their solution was
to thin out a matt/dull alum. paint that they recommend and use a
brush to work a bit of paint in the pores of the alum. to freshen it up.
I would hate to use any paint and especially just a little. It will look
like it needs a complete coating and will be too tempting.
There must be an alum. polishing process with clear coating that works.
#5
Drifting
The intake manifold went into the bath today and the orange
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.
My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450
My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.
What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?
Thanks...
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.
My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450
My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.
What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?
Thanks...
Gerry
#8
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I've been told numerous times to NOT glass bead it. You'll remove the original as-cast finish. Soda blast maybe? Or re-skinning as someone above mentioned. I say if you're not going to do the absolute "correct" detailing with the orange overspray, you either paint it if you want it to look brand new or if it cleans up well enough to look "fresh", just clear it.
#9
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Thanks for the info that allum. doesn't rust,dah, but it does stain and discolour easily,hence the clear, and by the way mine has't yellowed so far. (2 years on first intake)
Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; 05-07-2009 at 10:16 PM.
#10
Drifting
#12
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What's funny is that I am having my 490 intake reskinned by Jerry MacNiesh next month and I really don't what it is. I just know that everything that I see that he has redone looks great.
#13
Melting Slicks
I had my intake and valve covers re-skinned by Jerry and I also saw a intake that was glass beaded,and to be honest,I could not tell the difference. The trick to glass beading is to use the lowest pressure possible to do the job. If I had it to do all over again, when my wife wasn't home,I would put my intake and valve covers in the dish washer,set it on pots & pans,and let her rip. I would then glass bead them on low pressure. I know I'll probably get flamed for this,but I really was not happy with Jerry's work. I think all they do when they re-skin parts is tumble them,just like they did in the final step at the factory when they were made.
#14
Melting Slicks
Re skinning question
Hello
Im thinking of getting my valve covers and my Edlebrock intake reskinned. I was going to follow up with Eastwoods Clear spray for aluminum parts Intake etc..
Does the part after reskinning need this clear coat to protect it from gas and oil stains?
Thanks
Pete
Im thinking of getting my valve covers and my Edlebrock intake reskinned. I was going to follow up with Eastwoods Clear spray for aluminum parts Intake etc..
Does the part after reskinning need this clear coat to protect it from gas and oil stains?
Thanks
Pete
#15
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Nope. Re-skinned aluminum cleans up nicely with a paper towel and cheap spray carb cleaner. Have never seen any kind of clear on an intake that didn't yellow, especially on the crossover passages.