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'66 Alum Intake Proper Restoration

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Old 05-07-2009, 05:04 PM
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'67 Mann
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Default '66 Alum Intake Proper Restoration

The intake manifold went into the bath today and the orange
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.

My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450

My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.

What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?

Thanks...
Old 05-07-2009, 06:25 PM
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Kerrmudgeon
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I just finished a 57 2X4 intake and had it glass beaded. It looks like new. After that I sprayed it with a rattle can of high heat clear, and it resulted in a dull sheen thats easy to clean, cheers Rob
Old 05-07-2009, 06:45 PM
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knight37128
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I don't care what "clear" paint you put on it.

It will be yellow in no time.


Pssst, aluminum doesn't rust.
Old 05-07-2009, 06:50 PM
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'67 Mann
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I just read an article from the '66 NCRS DVD that said no matter how
much you clean the alum. intake it will still look dirty. Their solution was
to thin out a matt/dull alum. paint that they recommend and use a
brush to work a bit of paint in the pores of the alum. to freshen it up.

I would hate to use any paint and especially just a little. It will look
like it needs a complete coating and will be too tempting.

There must be an alum. polishing process with clear coating that works.
Old 05-07-2009, 07:27 PM
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Mossy66
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Originally Posted by A1930Q
The intake manifold went into the bath today and the orange
overspray and the base coat of 'aluminum' paint also came off.

My understanding is that the alum. intake should have a natural
unpainted finish to be correct ??? 427/450

My plans are not to overspray the orange on the manifold (sorry can't
be correct with that... just hate the look) and we are thinking of a
satin clear coat over the alum. to keep it fresh looking.

What suggestions do you all have in cleaning, buffing, the intake?
What cleaner or cleaning method should we use ?

Thanks...
I would leave it the way it is. Clean it up again in 40 years.

Gerry
Old 05-07-2009, 07:42 PM
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Kensmith
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I have seen clear powder coat used with success.
Old 05-07-2009, 08:55 PM
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MosportGreen66
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You could always reskin it. Jerry MacNeish is an expert at it. (z28camaro.com)

-Dave
Old 05-07-2009, 10:13 PM
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BMS
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I've been told numerous times to NOT glass bead it. You'll remove the original as-cast finish. Soda blast maybe? Or re-skinning as someone above mentioned. I say if you're not going to do the absolute "correct" detailing with the orange overspray, you either paint it if you want it to look brand new or if it cleans up well enough to look "fresh", just clear it.
Old 05-07-2009, 10:14 PM
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Kerrmudgeon
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Originally Posted by knight37128
I don't care what "clear" paint you put on it.

It will be yellow in no time.


Pssst, aluminum doesn't rust.
Thanks for the info that allum. doesn't rust,dah, but it does stain and discolour easily,hence the clear, and by the way mine has't yellowed so far. (2 years on first intake)

Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; 05-07-2009 at 10:16 PM.
Old 05-08-2009, 10:28 PM
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paulywannafly
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Originally Posted by MosportGreen66
You could always reskin it. Jerry MacNeish is an expert at it. (z28camaro.com)

-Dave
Could you please explain what reskining is ?
Sorry to sound dumb but I have seen (reskinned parts) and glass beaded parts and they look the same to me
Old 05-08-2009, 10:52 PM
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67-427ci
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This is a before and after picture of a manifold reskinned by Gerry MacNeish. It is well worth the cost.
Roy
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:12 PM
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rayvaflav
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Originally Posted by paulywannafly
Could you please explain what reskining is ?
Sorry to sound dumb but I have seen (reskinned parts) and glass beaded parts and they look the same to me
What's funny is that I am having my 490 intake reskinned by Jerry MacNiesh next month and I really don't what it is. I just know that everything that I see that he has redone looks great.
Old 05-08-2009, 11:57 PM
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I had my intake and valve covers re-skinned by Jerry and I also saw a intake that was glass beaded,and to be honest,I could not tell the difference. The trick to glass beading is to use the lowest pressure possible to do the job. If I had it to do all over again, when my wife wasn't home,I would put my intake and valve covers in the dish washer,set it on pots & pans,and let her rip. I would then glass bead them on low pressure. I know I'll probably get flamed for this,but I really was not happy with Jerry's work. I think all they do when they re-skin parts is tumble them,just like they did in the final step at the factory when they were made.
Old 05-09-2009, 06:38 AM
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Blk63Vette
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Default Re skinning question

Hello

Im thinking of getting my valve covers and my Edlebrock intake reskinned. I was going to follow up with Eastwoods Clear spray for aluminum parts Intake etc..

Does the part after reskinning need this clear coat to protect it from gas and oil stains?

Thanks
Pete
Old 05-09-2009, 03:50 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by Blk63Vette
Hello

Im thinking of getting my valve covers and my Edlebrock intake reskinned. I was going to follow up with Eastwoods Clear spray for aluminum parts Intake etc..

Does the part after reskinning need this clear coat to protect it from gas and oil stains?

Thanks
Pete
Nope. Re-skinned aluminum cleans up nicely with a paper towel and cheap spray carb cleaner. Have never seen any kind of clear on an intake that didn't yellow, especially on the crossover passages.
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