56 Texas

my hood release handle pulled off, I see a ribbed shaft (not threaded) and wondered if anyone else has had this happen and the best repair? I am thinking of drilling and putting a set screw in the handle .. ??

jmschmit

Handle pulling off has happened to a lot of Vettes over the years. I used a vise grip for many years on my 58. Good Luck. Bill58.

Qblue92

I have a release pull w cables. Let me know if you want to replace the whole thing.

devildog

I pulled mine off on the 61 a few months ago. I drilled and tapped the (bottom) of the handle shaft. Used a small allen wrench set screw and it works fine. Not visible unless you, put head under the dash and look up.

Joe

465hp

Mine pulled off my 63 and I used Locklite Super Epoxy. Let it sit over night and a year later, its still there in one piece!

wmf62

i expoxied mine back on
Bill

63C

I drilled and tapped the handle for a set screw on my '63. That was about 3 years ago
So far so good.
Steve

kbuhagiar

Mine came off about a year ago, due to a stress crack along the length of the shaft.

As a quick fix (I needed to open the hood!), I used super glue to repair the crack, and while it was drying I pressed it back onto the cable shaft and secured it with a tiny hose clamp around the circumference.

Worked like a charm, and you can't see the hose clamp unless you're looking for it.

I (gasp!) may just leave it that way.

59 navy

I just glued mine back on...no problem for 8 years now. 59 navy

Kerrmudgeon

I used double set screws, but make sure you dimple the shaft with the drill tip so the set screws hold good. Obviously a common problem, and I thought I was so smart.........!

Fawndeuce

JB Weld for mine, over a year with no problems...



Paul

Plastic Pig

RoadKing96

Mine hasn't ever pulled off (knock on wood) but we used JB Weld on a friends when his pulled off. Been about 6 months now and still holding firm.....
RK

Dave K.

I drilled and pinned mine and used JB Weld. No wiggle and still on.

Ron Miller

When I repaired mine, I opted for the method that was used on the originals, I believe. Took two pieces of flat stock steel, drilled the proper size hole between the two pieces while they were clamped together, then used the two pieces around the old handle to swage the handle back onto the rod. The rod has some upsets in it to prevent the handle from coming off. It's worked fine for several years, they just work loose over the years from all the times pulling and tugging on them to open the hood.

That said, if I have to do the one on the second car, I think I'll opt for the epoxy method. If you get a good epoxy bedding and completely fill all the gaps you eliminate any potential for movement between the rod and handle, and have full bearing between the two. I've never liked the idea of a set screw or bolt myself, I'm sure it'll work for a while, and possibly a long while, but it gives you a point loading on the handle rather than the full bearing you get with a swaged on handle or with the epoxy method.

Just my thoughts, don't go to flaming me because I'm not for the set screws. I know you guys are using them successfully, but not my deal.

gsc

Thanks for all the suggestions. Is the fact that the release is so hard to pull be a concern? Have I cured my problem by re-attaching the handle?

Kerrmudgeon

Related question, what's the best way to lubricate the entire cable? Graphite, oil, white lube, silicone.....???

mark6669

I have epoxied many of them never had one come off.
Mark

wmf62

it's a wirewound cable, so it could removed and soak the whole assembly in oil. but if you can pull the inner cable all the way out, then i think white grease would be less messy.

or, carefully spray WD40 on the outside while it is in place and wipe off the excess as you go.... work the cable every once in a while to distribute the lube.
Bill

Avispa

I'd steer clear of white grease. When it's used on anything exposed to the air, over time it turns rock hard and can cause things that used to work to become stuck. I've emptied at least two cans of WD 40 into my doors to free up the window lifts and the door locks/latch release mechanisms because of all the Lubriplate that was put on those things during restoration. I suppose one of these days I'll have to totally disassemble the doors and solvent wash the gunk off. Note that for enclosed things, like headlight motor gears an vent window regulators, white grease is ok if it's the recommended lubricant.