tmpugel

What weight oil should I use in 1963 SWC 327 ci/300 hp? It's an original engine never overhauled with 59,000 miles.Would a multi grade 10W30 be okay or just 30 weight? What about the synthetic oils that I use in my new cars are they okay in the older engines? After a lot of drive train and suspention work this is my first oil change since buying it.
Thanks,
Tom

Donald #31176

You should be more concerned with the API rating than the base stock or viscosity. Viscosity choice is predicated on the lowest anticipated starting temperature. 10W-30 is okay to temps down to 0*F.
API CJ-4 or CI-4 is what you should be using.

Trophy Blue

I have a '66 327 300hp with 48,000 miles on it. I use 10w-30 oil. Last year I used 10w-40 with STP oil additive and started my engine. It sounded like a diesel. Drained oil out a put 10w-30 oil back in the engine and it runs fine.

theron19d

there are many, many different opinions on this one. I'll give you mine, castrol GTX. Good for everything but motorcycles.

gonefishn

Since there are many varied opinions on the subject you may (should) want to search the archives before you pour anything in.

There were changes made to the oil composition (ZDDP) so the choice will be more then viscosity. The wrong oil now may cause excessive wear on your 63.

mechron

welcome to the forum tom, don't take any of this as an insult, but--DAMN, FILL OUT YOUR PERSONAL PROFILE--i refer to profiles all the time to answer guestions. oil requirments will vary if you live in 50 below zero canada, or you live in texas or florida (how are we supposed to know???)

as for which oil to use (i don't know where you are) here in norcal i used castrol 20-50 in all my cars for decades, it won't work at sub-zero temps, but for the low 30s, high 20s temps we once in a while we see it works fine.

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL IN YOUR ORIGONAL ENGINE. it does not have the ZDDP our old engines need (zinc) with flat tappet cams and all the seals will start leaking.
after all the oils started changing (to get rid of the ZPPD/zinc) i changed to valvoline racing 20/50 oil-NOT FOR STREET USE IN CAL but has high zinc/ZDDP content, but it is sold everywhere...

ALSO, you can buy zinc addative for any thinner oil from ZDDP plus.

you can also run deisel oil that still has zinc but that is changing also.
go with valvoline racing or a zinc additive, our old engines will not survive on modern oils...

65 vette dude

I use diesel oil that is 15w-40,and is rated CI-4. Lots of info on this subject in the archives,but I think you'll find that this is the oil most people use,if they have a flat tappet camshaft.Sounds like a real nice car Tom.

mechron

nice call 65 vette dude, i beat you with my post by a minute ??? but your post is right on. that diesel oil that is 15w-40 has zinc in it.

Jimbo64

I agree, use same weight but diesel with the additives-lot of discussion on this here in the archives

Jims66

Do a search on THIS website. Type in "ZDDP" and you'll have more to read than you'll have time for. Bottom line is that you need at least 1200ppm of ZDDP.

427435

Mobil 1 15w-50 has worked for years in my L71. It has somewhat higher zinc levels than the "Energy Star" oils and Mobil recommends it for older vehicles. It's not a good oil to use if you're starting your engine at temps at or below freezing.


spacer
Mobil 1 15W-50 Mobil 1 15W-50

Back by popular demand, Mobil 1® 15W-50's high viscosity provides outstanding performance in high-revving, high-temperature conditions.
Mobil 1 15W-50
Mobil 1 15W-50 exceeds warranty requirements for gasoline engines where an API certified oil is specified. It meets:

* API SM/SL
* Requirements for Diesel Powered Vehicles where an API CF or API CD is recommended
* Provides extra anti-wear additive for older vehicles

Allcoupedup

15w40 diesel oil for me too

tmpugel

Thanks for the helpful replies! I put EXXON Superflo 10W30 and will add a zinc supplement.
Have any of you put the filter adapter on so a spin on type filter can be used instead of the can with filter cartridge inside? It would make changing the filter easier.
Tom

427435

Ever since about 1969.

obx2323

I have a '69 era 350 in my '65 and run quite high oil pressure, 60lbs driving at 160 temp with a 7qt pan and Melling pump. I always use a high grade filter like Napa Gold for the fear of blowing it. That's with 15-40 Rotella. I'd rather keep the oil fresh as I run it pretty hard except for 1st gear take off and I think I pay like $12 a gal.

macs65

20W50 for the last 12 years, engine is in perferct condition, works for me.

chris ritchie

1. Look in your owner's manual for the weight of the oil to be sure. But you'll probably find that 10W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-40 will work unless you live at the North Pole. Depending on the temperature in your climate for when you expect to use the car, you might be able to use a single weight oil. But why would you want to?

2. Use a CI-4 rated oil. This is usually called oil for diesel engines. Don't use the usual "SM" or "SL" oil designed for gasoline engines. The oil manufacturers have reduced the amount of zinc (ZDDP) and other additives in "SL" or "SM" oil. This is because those additives can hurt catalytic converters and are not needed for modern roller lifter engines. CI-4 (diesel) still has the additives. Your car doesn't have roller lifters or a catalytic converter. But it does have flat tappets which want the additives.

3. I'm told that CI-4 oil is sold in different weights. But I've never been able to find anything other than 15W-40. I once drove out to a truck parts place*, and they only carried 15W-40. My FLAPS only has that weight too. 15W-40 works fine over 32F. The Shell variety is Rotella. Mobil makes Delo. There are others.

4. You can use synthetics. But why would you want to? They're much more expensive. If your car is like most, you'll change the oil based on time in rather than mileage. The big advantage of synthetics is that you can run them for many miles. But most collector cars never get run enough miles in season before it's time to change the oil at the end of the season.

5. If you're really interested in this subject, there's lots of research available on it.


* The other reason to drive to a truck parts place is to buy Baldwin oil filters. They are the best. Baldwin makes both the spin-on and cartridge type filters for Generation 1 SBCs.

mrruffhouser

In addition, since your not in CA (thank god) use any of the major brands of RACING Oil, they all have the necessary level of zinc that a flat tapped engine requires. It is less expensive than adding "zinc additives" and will protect your engine.
Also, check the archives for many many threads concerning this topic.
Their are those that drive 500-1000 miles a year-it really dosen't matter what they put in. Those that have used one brand for 20-30 years, believe they have the oil to use. I understand. However if you really review what many other forums are discussing along with our members inputs, I think you will go with major brand racing oil, 20-50 wt.

dkleather

GCD1962

You have a standard HP engine with Hydraulic lifters. Use any good brand 10-30w oil. Forget about all the other stuff - zddp, diesel oil, synthetic, etc. Not needed for your engine and amount of driving.