michael62

I am getting ready to change my gauges out on my 62 to the autometer artic white face gauges and have question on which fuel level gauge I need as far as the sender ohm range is concerned. There are three different ones:
0 empty-30ohms full (this one says pre 64 for most GM vehicles)
0 empty-90 ohms full (this one says for most 65-97 GM)
240 empty-33 ohms full

There are some other ones too, but they say for ford. I would think I would need the 0-30, but am not positive. Any help on which one I need would be greatly appreciated so i can get these on order. Thanks again.

mike coletta

You need the 0-30. Good luck!! Mike Coletta

michael62

thanks Mike. Is that a "its a PITA good luck?"

mike coletta

Yah, you got it !!!! "PITA" for sure. The worse thing is when you get it in, you find out the arm is not bent right, and it reads 1/4 FULL when your on the side of the road somewhere!!! LOL. Let me know how many times you whack your head on the deck lid latch during the process-----and if you drop a screw in the tank, a magnet works pretty well to get it out (don't ask how I know that). Mike Coletta

Redbird

Mike, Do you want to sell your olld gauges? I need a working temp gauge. I haven't attempted to take the old one out yet.

John

michael62

John,
That's funny you ask about the temp gauge, because that's what started me on the conversion, because my temp gauge is inop.

michael62

mike,
do they make a newer fuel level sending unit for our cars?

mike coletta

John, I don't have a temp gauge. I reuse the temp and fuel gauges when I rebuild a cluster. Those things are pretty bullet-proof. Is yours not working, or reading wrong?? Mike

mike coletta

John,
You can buy a repro from any of the suppliers. I use a newer type made by Dayco, but my tanks are stainless steel, and totally different from the originals because of the in-tank fuel pump. You have to use the repro because of the way the sender mounts to the tank. Make sure you buy a new filter sock also. Mike

mike coletta

John,
To check your temp gauge, try this. There are two wires going to the temp gauge, a pink and a dark green. The pink wire is to the OUTBOARD side of the car. That supplies 12v to the gauge when the ignition is ON. First, make sure that you are getting 12v at that wire. If you are, find a GOOD ground, and run a test lead from ground to the dark green terminal with the ignition ON. The gauge should peg to the right. If it does, then you have something amiss along the green wire, or the sending unit itself. If it does not peg, then you have a burnt coil on the gauge itself. Hope this helps to figure it out. Mike

michael62

mike,
One last question, which way did you have to bend that arm on the sending unit, up or down? Thanks for all your help!

mike coletta

You just want to make sure that the gauge reads "empty" when you are. The best thing to do is to put the sender in the car with the tank close to empty, say 2" of fuel in the bottom. Put the sender in the tank, and turn the ignition on to see where it reads. You want the float to be all the way "down" to read empty. Sometimes you have to play around with it to get the full swing on the gauge to read correctly. I'd rather know that I'm empty vs full. Basically, the float should be at the top of the tank for a full reading, and laying on the bottom when it's empty. Hope this helps. Mike

JohnZ

Try this for C1 fuel gauge system troubleshooting:

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...lGaugeTech.pdf