NVaVettes

1) Blown fuse (checked OK, cheap so replaced anyhow)

2) Bad brake light switch (checked OK, cheap so replaced anyhow, adjusted)

3) Open to suggestions: bad connections --- where?

Thanks!

Don

67 BB Coupe TI, 4spd, no A/C, no p/b, no p/w, no p/s

wombvette

Turn signal switch.

Astrodokk

Turn signal switch messed mine up, but only on the side the switch was sticking on. If both lights are off, then it may be something else.

GCD1962

Connections where the wires from the brake light switch connect to the wires for the rear harness. Has this happen on my '62. A wire came loose - no brake lights -pushed it back in - brake lights work

Geralds57

I vote for the turn signal switch too. If you pull the wheel and horn contact and get to the switch, then you can jump across the wires without moving the lever and hopefully your lights will come on. Good luck.

62Jeff

Did this problem start after you replaced the headlight switch? Or was it there before?

NVaVettes

Nope, the dash lights gave up the ghost about a month ago.

The brake lights were MIA this morning when I showed up at the
Virginia inspection station. (:o Embarrassing!)

They may have been out for a while....no other drivers said anything and I can't see my own butt.....

But, I didn't start "fixing" anything until this afternoon after I finally
got me one of those "round to-its".


Don

PS: Turn signals work and cancel, both sides.
Rear lights come on with parking lights and headlights.
Backup lights work in reverse.

wombvette

If both side turns work and cancel correctly, it most likely is a BL switch or the fuse, fuse holder. Sometimes a little corrosion at the fuse holder will cause a lack of power, just like a blown fuse.

JohnZ

The turn signals use the same circuit in the rear harness as the brake lights; it's in the turn signal switch.

Do your hazards work?

NVaVettes

Yes, the hazard lights work.

I have been studying my '67 Lectric Limitied wiring diagram in much the
same way as a first grader would study Shakespeare.

But, as JohnZ pointed out, the brakes, turn signals, and hazard lights all
use the same circuit stuff from the body connector back. That says
those wires, light bulbs, and grounds are good-to-go.

Working from the other direction, I've got power up to the (new) brake light switch.

That seems to leave the turn signal switch in between, which is where, I'm
assuming, the brake signal, turn signal, and hazard lights all "join" together in what appears to be some sort of electrical miracle.

That and I've been told several times its probably the turn signal switch.

So, it looks like I'm in the market for a new turn signal switch!


One more question though.......

The wiring diagram seems to show only two wires coming from the
brake light switch.
I've got two wires coming off the base that connects to the blades on
the back of the switch, (which I would have expected) but I've also
got two more individual wires with flexible, flat-strip connectors coming in;
each one sandwiched between one of the brake light switch blades
and its base.

Is this correct or someone's "handy-work"? If correct, what are they
and where do they go?

Thanks!

Don

62Jeff

That's from the capacitor that should be there for the radio. I'll dig up a picture...


Note, mine is mounted to the wrong side of the brake support bracket, but you get the idea

NVaVettes

62Jeff: Thanks!

The two "extra" wires had no slack and seemed to quickly disappear
upwards so I couldn't see where they went.

Don

USALT1

Brake light cutout switch for eluding police!

magicv8

also used by aftermarket cruise control for pedal disengage.

NVaVettes

I just got finished replacing the turn signal switch in the '67.

I still have no brake lights.

It looks like I'm going to have to go back to square one and re-visit
everything. I am NOT amused.

I still have all rear turn signals and all rear hazards.

Anyone have any new thoughts?

Thanks!
Don

I did manage to fix a few other minor annoyances:
o cleaned up all contacts and horn now works much better/stronger
with no shocking!
o packed upper steering column bearing --- less sloppy feel.
o correctly aligned steering wheel on re-assembly.

NVaVettes

The problem is finally solved....

1) New turn signal switch (also cleaned up intermittent horn problem)

2) The brake light socket to brake light switch connections were "iffy"
(Dis-assembled, cleaned, re-crimped individual female connectors,
and re-assmbled)

3) The "new" NAPA brake light switch was bad as well....
(I did not test it before installing on faith; that's once)
I wound up putting the old one back in.

I also hand-packed the upper steering column bearing and that seems
to have taken care of a very minor movement that was present before.

I also re-aligned the steering wheel so that its straight when driving
straight (was slightly off before.)

FWIW: The Chassis Service Manual seems to be missing the last
three or four steps required to dis-assemble things to a point that
the turn signal switch can actually be re-installed.

Thanks to all who replied!

Don

Nova Joe

Maybe a bit removed from brake issues but related in so far as capacitors. Just finishing up a body off restoration on my '67 coupe. It's been a loooonnnggg project and much of what, 'I'll never forget', has of course been forgotten. Now I have all these capacitors and don't have a clue where they go or how to connect them. They include ignition, heater motor, ammeter and I'm sure I've overlooked some.

Any ideas or where might I go to get descriptions?

Hitch

Start your own thread... Digging up a four year old thread is not always the best way to get answers to your question..

But these should help...


http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt1.pdf

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt2.pdf